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Cho Oyu Expedition 2004
Follow our progress - diary updates below:
18th September:
With Ellis resigned to the fact that he will not be returning to the mountain
the remaining team members; Rob, Andy, Paul and Di; head up to Camp I for
the final time. I would love to paint a glorious picture of this trek up
to camp I but I would be lying - this has to be one of the most tedious treks
I have done and long live MP3 players or Bipods where you can 'rock out'
up the scree slopes to camp. The first time was quite nice but by the forth
it was somewhat of a trudge. We knew that our summit attempt would not be
in perfect weather but with a very small opening on the 21st it was make
or break time for the team. News around camp was not to head onto the mountain
due to the big storm coming in - not quite sure where this information came
from since both our weather forecasts were not predicting this. As long as
we could get to the summit in poor visibility and moderate winds (30 knots)
we would be ok.
19th September:
We head up to Camp II today with Mingma and Purba catching us up and reaching
Camp II before us. The majority of the people we meet today are heading off
the mountain in anticipating of the big storm coming in. Quite a pleasant day
with the weather being fairly kind to us.
20th September:
This is to be the first venture up to Camp III for the team.
Unfortunately, Andy who had been having problems with cold feet on previous
days decides to call it a day due to his recurring cold feet problem. At the
same time Rob comes down with SVT (a very fast heart beat) - he's a doc and
I aint going to argue with that one. It was a very easy decision for him to
abort his summit attempt. Rob and Andy then return back down the mountain and
in very poor conditions finally make it back down to Camp I. Meanwhile Paul
and Di head up to Camp III.
21st September :
It was as the weather reports had predicted. A gusty evening with little sleep
and by 0200 Paul and Di along with Mingma and Purba set off to 'bag' Cho Oyo.
I reckon there were 17 individuals in total attempting (and all summitting)
Cho Oyo on this blowy morning. Along with the Adventure Peaks team were the
Alpine Ascents team, one Singaporean and one Chinese along with Sherpas. Trail
breaking must be given credit to both Mingma and Purba with Purba trail breaking
to the top of the fixed line and Mingma taking over and breaking trail to the
summit - this was up to knee deep on occasions and to hear a Sherp whimper
was a first for me! White out conditions and a max of 30 knot winds - could
have been on the Cairngorm plateau really. By 11am all had stood on the 6th
highest mountain in the world and departed. No stunning summit photos - must
have got a clearing of about 3 seconds to identify Everest and the whole of
the Khumbu valley. Paul left and spent the night at Camp III and Di returned
to Camp II.
Rob and Andy return to ABC today.
No other teams head up to Camp III today.
22nd September:
Another very blowy evening and it wasn't until I started meeting people when
I was returning to ABC to I learnt that the summit was engulfed in a huge lenticular
cloud.
Paul and Di finally return to ABC and Mingma and Purba clear the mountain of
all the Adventure Peaks equipment.
Too tired to enjoy a social in the evening.
Thats all folks, di
Sun 12th September - The full team moved upto Camp
1, the weather now having turned to clear skies with a little wind. Ellis
returned to ABC Andy, Rob, Paul and Di slept at Camp 1 after to digging
out the tents after the last few days of snow.
Monday 13th September - Our Sherpa team left ABC early to meet up with the team
as they left camp 1 for camp 2 where a comfortable night was spent. Ellis remained
at ABC.
Tuesday 14th September - Sherpas went to set up Camp 3 ready for the teams summit
attempt. Andy and Rob returned to BC, Paul and Di walked a little way up towards
camp 3 before returning to ABC.
Wed 15th September - The whole team is now resting and preparing for their summit
bids we anticipate they will leave base camp again on Saturday with next Wednesday
22nd being their preferred summit day, weather permitting.
We hope the next update will be on Friday 17th with news that the team will be
leaving for their summit bid.
It appears we are not going to be able to fix the e-mail facility for which we
apologise .
Dave Pritt, Adventure Peaks UK Office
10/09/04
Camp 2 is now fully established and the equipment for the top camp has been
moved to camp 1 ready to go higher. Everyone at the moment is taking advantage
of the current poor weather and taking a well earned rest, it has been snowing
throughout Thursday and Friday. It is hoped after a third days rest whole
group will move up and sleep at camp one on Sunday, then upto Camp 2 (7000m)
on Monday where Rob, Andy, Paul Di will sleep, Ellis plans to drop back down
to camp one for his second night there before trying to sleep at camp 2.
Tuesday will see their first movement up to Camp 3 after which the group
will return to ABC for a good rest and then perhaps a summit bid in about
7-10 days time.
We hope the next update will be on Wednesday.
Dave Pritt, Adventure Peaks UK Office
06/09/04
Everyone continues to be in good health. Following two days rest and time to
fully establish ABC, the Sherpas did their first carry to Camp 1 at 6400m
on Saturday. On Sunday 4th September the majority of the group did their
first trip to Camp 1 carry light loads for acclimatization. Ellis will do
the same journey on Tuesday, following an additional acclimatization day.
Currently (Monday 6th) it is snowing, so time to rest.
Dave Pritt, Adventure Peaks UK Office
03/09/04
Our expedition arrived safely and in good health at Base Camp and have recently
(Wed 1st September) moved up to ABC. Other news is limited for the moment
as the Server which supports our expedition e-mail has been getting upgraded
and we have not been able to receive additional detailed reports. We hope
an update can be given on Monday 6th September 2004.
Dave Pritt, Adventure Peaks UK Office
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