A
Diary of Events from The North Ridge 2003
The
Team:
| Dave
Pritt |
Expedition
Leader |
Conan
Harrod |
British |
Philip
James |
British |
Patricia
McGuirk |
Irish |
Walid
Abuhaidar |
American |
Peter
Madew |
Australian |
THE
RESCUE
After
the epic 4 days descent to get back to Base Camp, I had to be
evacuated to Kathmandu by Jeep because the helicopter was unable
to fly into Tibet from Nepal due to bad weather conditions. The
8 days stay at the B&B hospital in Southern Patan were relatively
comfortable and the reconstructive surgery on the lower left
leg went well. We finally returned home to the UK 1st Class (Paid
for by the insurance company), just a pity I couldn't enjoy the
free Champaign because of the antibiotics I was
taking.
I
was X-rayed and checked over at the local Stockport hospital
near where I live and they are quite happy with how the operation
went. I spent four weeks at home getting bored watching daytime
TV before returning to work, still with the aid of crutches.
Some of the metal work was removed on the 10th July and I could
finally start to put some weight on the leg. As I slowly put
more and more pressure on the left leg over the next couple of
weeks, I started back at my Gym at the end of August to start
to build the muscles back in the legs and rest of the body.
Its
now the middle of August and I can walk unaided over short distances
and even managed a slow walk round Buttermere Lake on the Adventure
Peaks weekend. Jill was quite amused that I couldn't keep up
with her on the flat as we all set off together on Saturdays
walk. I am already planning ahead to the next couple of years
and am hoping to go to Peru next summer to climb Peru Alpamayo
and Huascaran. I can also confirm that I will then be returning
for another attempt on Everest in March 2005 with Adventure Peaks.
The organisation and quality of equipment provided was excellent.
More importantly, when it mattered the most during my rescue, everything
was coordinated very professionally. I had no hesitation in deciding
that I would again book with Adventure Peaks.
All
mountaineering has some level of risk and despite what has been
said in some of the media reports, it was entirely an accident
and I do not hold anyone responsible.
I
would like to thank the following people:-
Walid Abuhaidar and Peter Madew from the
Adventure Peaks Everest 2003 team for their incredible
effort during the 1st critical two days of my rescue.
Dave Pritt for coordinating the entire rescue with
great skill and determination.
Phil and Patricia for their help manning the radio
and contacting other teams.
The Adventure Peaks Sherpas for their involvement
during all 3 days of the rescue down to ABC showing incredible
strength throughout.
The Royal Navy team and other Sherpas who gave great
assistance.
Other teams who provided vital oxygen supplies and
additional help.
A special thanks to Jill who was left keeping friends and family
up to date with what was happening and had to answer the endless phone
calls from the media at all hours.
Thanks
finally to everyone who sent cards and e-mails giving their best
wishes.
I
am still collecting money for my chosen charity :-
The Motor Neurone Disease Association so please donate online at : www.justgiving.com/everest
Conan
Harrod
REPORTS (read
in reverse order)
CONAN
WAS CLIMBING EVEREST FOR CHARITY,
Conan and Dave will be home Tuesday 3rd June.
Once again many thanks to all those involved in Conan's rescue.Thanks
for all the emails and phone calls from all over the world enquiring
about Conan.The amount of courage he himself showed in his rescue proved
to me that he DID summit Everest.
I
do not Know if anyone knew that Conan was climbing Everest for
charity.This was for research into Motor Neurone Disease(MND)also known
as Lou Guerrin Syndrome.This is the disease Conans' father died from
in
May 1988(15 years ago).There is no known cure for MND and most sufferers
die within years(his dad in 13 months) The motor nerves of the brain
and spinal cord die resulting in total paralysis, the person casnnot
move,speak or swallow food and drink. It is a most terrible disease.
Both Conan and his dad showed great courage.
I
hope that you do not think that I am being too cheekybut I was
wondering if anyone would like to sponsor Conan?
Conans attempt on Everest was totally self financing and any money he
received went to MNDA.
If
you wish to please send cheques made payable to MNDA with a note
mentioning Conans name. The address to snd it to is:-
Motor Neurone Disease Association
David Niven House
10-15 Notre Dame Mews
Northampton
NN1 2BG
UK
or alternatively to me(I will forward it on)at
Mrs C Harrod
67 Station Road
Reddish
Stockport
SK5 6ND
Uk
Once
again many thanks
Connie (mum) Michelle and Ian (sister and brother in law) Craig and
Cathy (Conans twin brother and sister in law) Rachel (Conans girlfriend)
and all the rest of the Harrod family.
Wednesday
28th May
Im really sorry that the website has not been updated for a few days,
its been an emotional time for all concerned and it doesn't help been
bombarded by endless press/tv/and radio.
I
would like to thank everyone for all there support and kind words,
the office has been swamped with emails and calls from around
the globe who have followed the team's progress, but also have
expressed there feelings to Conan, but more so to Peter and Walid
who ultimately saved Conans life.
Conan
is in hospital in Kathmandu. Patricia and Philip are in Kathmandu.
Walid has returned to the USA and Peter has returned to Australia
where we are awaiting news of his fingers.
Dave
is currently helping the sherpas strip all equipment from the
mountain. He returns to the UK 3rd June.
Jill
Pinkerton
Dear
Jill,
Rachel and I (Conan's mum) would like to thank everybody who was
involved in the rescue of Conan off Everest. I ESPECIALLY thank Walid
Abuhaidar and Peter Madew (two of Conans team mates at Adventure
Peaks) who saved his life on the first day and night to get him down
to
top camp They unselfishly risked their own lives to save Conan. I also
give deep thanks to the sherpas from the Adventure Peaks team and other
sherpas. Thanks to the RN team who helped Conan from 7500meters (they
helped Peter as well). Thanks to everyone who took part in the rescue.
The Adventure Peaks team (Dave, Philip, Patricia, Walid, Peter and the
Sherpas) were all truly superb and were "ACE". Rachel (Conans
Girlfriend) I
have much to thank them for. Thank you Jill for keeping me sane!!
Conan is now recovering in Katmandu Hospital after an operation on his
leg. He hopes to be back in England by the beginning of next week. Once
again THANK YOU
Constance
Harrod and Rachel
UPDATE
- 23 May 2003
All climbing above 8000m is extremely hazardous and accepted by those
who undertake the challenge of the worlds highest mountain, on Everest
the dangers of high altitude are the most testing. What happened to Conan
Harrod on May 21st at 8.30am was a result of a mountaineering accident,
an American climber , slipped and fell pulling on the fixed rope, he
in turn pulled off his sherpa who finally pulled on our client Conan
who fell breaking his leg at 8500m. Assistance was given to get Conan
back on the ridge where pain killing drugs were given. .
What happened next can only be described as one of the worlds highest
fight for survival and to whom most credit can only be given to Peter
Madew, Walid , two of Conan,s fellow climbers. Walid was told on the
radio that Conan had broken his leg, he immediately abandoned his summit
bid at 8600m to return and help Peter evacuate Conan. The evacuation
was along a notorious ridge with thousand of meters of exposure. Conan's
legs was splinted with an ice axe. The terrain is so steep that for the
majority of the journey back to the high camp it is impossible to carry
or support the injured person so conan had to crawl and hop over 2 kms,
while Peter and Walid lifted the injured limb over the rocky terrain.
At altitudes of over 8000m even the simplest tasks are desperate. It
is impossible to describe the sheer strength that was shown.
They arrived at their top camp 8200m just after darkness after 10 hrs
of crawling, hopping and support. Many groups had walked past both on
their journey to the summit and back. Our sherpas had arrive from lower
camps to assist but could only help to make them comfortable for the
night before return to the lower camp 7800m for the night. They would
set off early the next morning to return to 8200m to assist in the evacuation.
Walid after providing support throughout the day also worked extremely
hard throughout the night to keep Conan warm and fed, donating his own
sleeping bag, unbelievable in temperatures -20-30 C. Throughout the day
the remainder of the adventure Peaks team tried to gain support from
other teams, it proved impossible for the section back to top camp 8200m.
Support was given at 8200m, Russell Brice, Himalayan Experience donated
oxygen and advice he being one of the most experienced guides on the
north Side of Everest, Individual client gave oxygen and two doctors
one from the Royal Navy and a client from Adventure Extreme gave medical
advice by radio through Adventure Peaks. A Chinese Team contributed 3
Sherpas to help our 2 sherpas with the evacuation the next morning from
8300m with further support promised from 7800m (Royal Navy 3 person,
Russell Brice 2 Sherpas, 3 more Adventure Peaks Sherpas). Peter Madew
who had contributed so much in helping Conan get back to the top camp
had contracted a degree of frost bite and at the 7800m camp was assisted
down my a member of the Royal Navy.
The descent from 8200m - 8500m was again extremely Rocky and it was only
due to Conan inner strength that allowed him to crawl, be dragged, pulled
and lifted over the rocky terrain. Our Sherpas and the Chinese at times
could only watch and wonder at Conan's strength.
Radio Communication with Adventure Peaks Advance Base camp was maintained
throughout, from which medical advice was relaid from supporting teams.
We have been able to keep friends and relatives informed, through our
office and Jill. A recent quote:
Dear all
I just wanted to send a quick note to thank you all for everything youve
done getting Conan down off the mountain. You seem to have worked miracles
to get him down from such a dangerous situation.
Ive just been speaking to his mother and neither of us can come
close to expressing our gratitude for what youve done for him.
Thank you
Rachel (Conans girlfriend, just in case you were wondering!)
From
the camp at 7600m, a strong Royal Navy group added a welcome
strength to the evacuation party, our sherpas and the Chinese
had done so much from 8300m. They took the lead in getting Conan
down to the North Col at 7000m where he spent the night. As I
write four Navy members along with our Sherpas are doing the
final stages in getting Conan down to the steep final stages
to Advance Base Camp where direct medical assistance will be
given by two doctors (Navy and Civilian). After medical attention
we Adventure Peaks have arranged the final part of the evacuation
down to Base Camp, another 22kms, Yak Hearders will stretcher
this section to an awaiting Jeep or Helicopter for a full days
journey back to Kathmandu and Hospital treatment.
Adventure Peaks thanks the many teams who have contributed to the rescue
of Conan and to our Sherpas and the Chinese Sherpas incredible strength,
his team members Peter and Walid who showed the ultimate dedication to
a team member, Philip James another team members who showed such calm
in helping to co-ordinate the different teams from base camp by radio.
Also to the other teams who contributed to the joint effort: Royal Navy,
Chinese, Himalayan Experience(Russell Brice), Spanish Team and the many
Tibetan Yak Hearders. The ultimate person was however Conan himself,
who should go down in history as one of the greatest endeavour for survival.
My
part was to try and bring all section together and to liaison
with other teams.
Dave
Pritt
Expedition Leader
NEWS
UPDATE - Thursday 22nd May
Peter and Walid are safely back to ABC, both are ok, I have spoken to
both today and both have commented about the strength and sheer determination
of Conan.
Evacuation
progress has been slow today but its not surprising seen
that Conan is hopping, crawling and sliding on his bum, as well
as been carried by our sherpas.
Hes
currently just above the North Col so the decision has been called
to stay the night at the North Col and continue down the Col
to ABC tomorrow. From there the team and sherpas will carry him
the 22km back to BC. The British Embassy in Nepal are currently
working through paperwork and legislation to enable the helicopter
to fly into Everest Base camp, if the helicopter cant, then a
Jeep is on standby to take him to Kathmandu.
The response in the office has been overwhelming and I would like to
thank everyone for their support and kind words to the whole team.
URGENT
NEWS - 21st May
On behalf of Adventure Peaks in the UK we would like to confirm that
the British Climber who today has broken his lower leg is Mr Conan Harrod
from Manchester.
Conan
was moving with fellow team member Peter Madew from Australia
when the accident happened between the first and second step
on summit day. We are still unclear exactly how the accident
happened but we are led to believe that a climber from another
team slipped from above, landing on Conan. A radio call brought
Walid who was higher on the mountain down to assist Peter with
getting Conan back down to Top camp. The 2 team mates escorted
and dragged Conan back to his tent and safety whilst sherpa support
from our team and others moved to assist.
Conan
is currently stable with medical support at Top camp. Evacuation
will begin at first light tomorrow sherpas and other climbers
will carry him down to ABC. A rescue helicopter is on standby
to pick Conan from BC to fly him direct to Kathmandu.
Words can not describe what his fellow team members, sherpas and other
teams have done for Conan today.
Jill Pinkerton
Adventure Peaks Office - UK
Report
No 13 - Tuesday 20th May
Team 2, Patricia, Philip and Dave set off from the North Col this morning
up the North ridge. Both Patricia and Philip were moving extremely slowly
with the affects of been over 7000metres and at around 7400metres both
made the decision from within themselves to turn around and return back
to ABC. Dave accompanied both back down to ABC.
I have just spoken with Philip and Patricia at ABC to offer our congratulations
and praise to both of them. Both are extremely pleased with the effort
they obtained, and happy that they themselves made the safe, correct decision
to turn back.
Dave has just called home after the 6pm Tibet time,radio call,
all three of Team 1, Walid, Peter & Conan are safe and
well at top camp (8200metres). They will begin there summit
push about 1.30am Wednesday. Turn around time has been set
for 12 noon, meaning that wherever they are at 12 noon they
should turn around and return in order to safely return in daylight hours.
They will be radioeing Dave at ABC 8.30am Wednesday, by this time they
should be well under way. As soon as Dave calls tomorrow with news, once
family have been informed we will aim to update the website asap.
Jill Pinkerton
Report
No 12 - Monday 19th May, 3pm
Dave has just called to let us know that Team 1 are safe and well at camp
2 (7800metres) and Team 2 are safe and well at the North Col (7000metres).
Jill Pinkerton
Report
No 11 - Monday 19th May
A few hours after our update was posted on Friday the team changed there
summit plans. On Sunday 18th, Team 1, Peter, Walid and Conan left ABC to
move to the North Col (camp 1). They are still going for the summit on
Wednesday 21st May.
Today, Team 2, Dave, Philip, Patricia & Pemba (climbing sherpa who
will be accompanying Patricia to the summit and back) have left ABC to
move to the North Col.
They are going for the summit Thursday 22nd May.
As Dave receives news on Wednesday from Team 1 we will be updating as soon
as we hear, this will be around 3pm UK time.
On Thursday, Dave again will phone the news straight home.
Jill Pinkerton
Report
No 10 - Friday 16th May Whalids Birthday!!!
I have just spoken with Dave, all are safe and well at ABC (6400metres).
Weather reports today have confirmed that the team will go for the summit
on Wednesday 21st May. The intended plan for the next few days is as follows:
| Saturday
17th May |
Rest
and get packed |
| Sunday
18th May |
The
team will move to the North Col (7000metres) |
| Monday
19th May |
North
Col to 7800metre camp |
| Tuesday
20th May |
7800
to Top camp at 8200metres |
| Wednesady
21st May |
SUMMIT
DAY. The team will aim to leave at around 2am. |
All 5 members and Dave are setting out for the summit tomorrow. Dave is
intending to take the satalite phone with him to enable reports and progress
to be communicated back home. They are currently 5 hours ahead of UK time.
On behalf of all family and friends we wish the team (and all other teams)
a safe and successful return to ABC.
The next report will be on Monday 19th May.
Jill Pinkerton
Report
No 9 - 14th May
Dave phoned today to inform me that Conan, Peter and Whalid
after receiving updated weather forcast set off upto ABC. Dave,
Philip and Patricia will move to ABC tomorrow. The weather
window now is looking extremely favourable for a summit attempt
on the 20th & 21st May. The team will rest at
ABC for a day or 2 while the sherpas finish setting up all the camps.
The weather is now been monitered daily.
We
hope to update daily now as the teams summit dreams are 1 week
away. (weather depending)
Jill Pinkerton
Report
No 8 - SUMMIT PLANS
13th May
The team returned to BC aware the next time they trod the same ground it
would be on their way to the summit. We have now been playing the waiting
game for the last week to ten days, our weather forecasts now show a possible
summit window around the 22-23 May. We get our weather forecast from Switzerland
in conjunction with Kari Kobler & Partners (A Swiss Expedition Company),
in the past they have proven to be very accurate.
Its been a long wait for a favouarable forecast this year, the group have
occupied their time visting other camps, the Tibetan Bars for the odd Lhasa
bear, playing cards, reading and performing on Chineses TV. As part of
the 50th Aniversary of the first Ascent CCTV (Chineses TV) have in conjunction
with the Chinese team been preparing to broadcast live coverage of their
ascent. The amount of technology and equipment involved is incrediable,
including a 2km fibre optic cable from the North Col (7020m - 6400m) As
part of the show interviews have been held with other teams to show an
International flavour. Patricia and I were given 30 seconds each to perform
live to 1.2 Billion viewers. The Chinese team are on a tight schedule to
summit as a result of the TV, and are aiming for 17-18 May (Not the best
weather according to our forecast!!!)
We have aslo been visted by the Chinese Army and our whole camp sprayed
along with all other teams against 'Sars Flu' , very useful and I'm please
we can now relax knowing we are clean and we have no need to use our shower
for the rest of the expedition.
The team will leave BC onThursday 15th or Friday 16th for the long trek
back to ABC, rest and do their final preparations until 18th before leaving
for the North Col on the 19th. It will then be Camp 1 (7800m) on 20th,
Camp 2 (8200m on 21st), Summit 22nd returning to 7800m and back to ABC
on 23rd. Our summit bids will start on the 22nd at around 2am from camp
2 members should reach the summit at around 11-12 noon, arriving back at
top camp at 4-5pm. The above is based on current advanced weather forecasts
and could be adjusted as we recieve further information.
We have allowed three days after the summit bids to clear the mounatin
before Yaks arrive to take us to BC (2 days), a further day of clearing
at BC will see us in Jeeps heading back to Kathmandu on the 30th May.
Dave
Report
No 8 - Friday 9th May
After several weeks of quite good weather allowing the team to acclimatise
quickly and for the camps to be quickly established on the mountain,
Everest finally awoke !!!
We have had 5 days of incredibly strong winds with speed of over 100mph
above the North Col at 7000m. We are fortunate to be able to receive
very good weather predictions to give us plenty of warning for such events.
We were able to complete our final acclimatisation climb up the North
Ridge to 7600m and safely descend all the way to Base Camp before the
bad weather arrived. The winds proved very destructive over the 5 days
with many teams loosing many tents at all camps. One or two teams have
had to pull out altogether because of the damage. At Base Camp, we witnesses
many tents being seriously damaged. The damage at ABC was reportedly
a lot worse.
Adventure Peaks were very lucky !. The only damage at Base Camp was the
toilet tent blowing down. Luckily I'd just left it a few minutes earlier
!. The damage was only a couple of bent poles and so we quickly dismantled
it to prevent further damage. At ABC, the Mess tent had two broken poles
which were quickly replaced with spares and a Quasar had a ripped Flysheet
so the tent was again dismantled to prevent further damage. Once the
winds had eased on Wednesday 7th May, one of our cooks at ABC ascended
to the North Col to check on the 4 tents there. The Quasar store tent
was destroyed but all it contents were still there and one of the 3 Hyperspace
tents received minor damage. This was great news as most of the essential
summit gear was stored in these tents !
Credit must go to the Sherpas and the team members who ensured that all
tents were securely pitched at these camps and also to Adventure Peaks
to the high quality of tents used without which we would be in the same
situation as most other teams with a lot more widespread damage. The
Sherpas are currently continuing their work in stocking the higher camps
with the oxygen and other gear required for our summit bid.
So apart from sheltering from the wind, what has kept us
occupied for 6 days resting at Base Camp ?. We soon get
tired of playing Poker, especially as Phil always wins
as is currently over 600 toothpicks ahead which equals
6 rounds of drinks !. We have tried to help the local Tibetan
economy by visiting one of the many bars at the start of
Base Camp. Not quite what most of us are used to, the bars
are wooden framed shacks, not very structurally sound as
most of the pieces of "Drift Wood" are
strung together. Covering the whole structure is thin plastic sheeting
looking like your Grandmothers Shopping Bag !. We have hired a local
Tibetan to collect water and do other chores and we 1st visited a bar
he owns and his daughter runs. Unfortunately on the second visit it had
become a victim of the storms so we had a small collection to pay for
its reconstruction.
In the last 2 days, we have been approached by Chinese Television to
get involved in there 8 day live Television Broadcast of their teams
ascent of the mountain. Patricia has been asked to be our representative
on the show on the 11th May. We have also had a 2 hour interview by a
Chinese newspaper.
So looking ahead, the original hope was to summit around the 14th - 16th
May but the forecast we have received is not looking too promising with
summit winds of 40mph so we are waiting for a more favourable forecast
before we make a move. This also allows our Sherpas to catch up on the
work in stocking the camps after 5 days of bad weather.
So how are the team doing ?
Dave is recovering slowing from his bad Chest Infection and is quite
happy about all the coverage Adventure Peaks is getting. This is despite
being called "Simple" by the newspaper interviewer !
Phil is quite happy about the extra acclimatisation time. He was very
unhappy that the Chinese lady from the Chinese TV company CCTV thought
he was 40 years old, despite the fact that if he summits, he will be
the youngest Britain to summit from the North Side at 24 years old !.
Patricia is understandably quite apprehensive about talking live to 1.2
Billion Chinese viewers on Sunday !
Walid is getting quite upset that he hasn't been invited to any of the
parties by the American team next door. He was quite shocked when our
Tibetan water carrier tried to persuade him that he should marry his
17 year old daughter and take her back to the US !. That's the fastest
I've seen the 22 year old run since the start of the trip !. He spent
every 5 minutes checking on his tent during the 5 day storm.
Peter is becoming quite impatient and headed off to ABC today. Probably
worried about the rest of us embarrassing him on Chinese TV !.
Conan is still capturing all the embarrassing moments on his Camcorder
and is keeping those finished video tapes well hidden from the rest of
the team.
The next report will come when we have received a good forecast and are
about set off on our summit bid.
Latest News is that the toilet tent is now back up at Base Camp !
Conan Harrod
Report
No 7 - 6th May
The team are currently all safe and well at BC. Everest has
been seriously hit by over 100 mile winds causing extensive
damage to tents and camps. Our team have been lucky in terms
that they havent lost any tents
at BC and ABC, as some expeditions have been reported to have lost everything
and have had to abandon any chance of summitting. We are waiting for
the winds to drop before the sheraps can go to the North Col to check
the tents there and at 7500 metres camp. A summit bid for the 10th May,
is now out the question. The team will wait at BC for the weather to
come good.
3rd May
We are all back at BC since Friday. Since our last report, the majority
of the team have spent two nights on the north col at 7010m.The weather
was good during the morning but heavy snowfalls followed for both afternoons.
Sharing 2 and 3 to a tent was an experience ! I managed to survive 2
nights sandwiched between Conan and Phil, we hardly had space to breathe
and enjoyed frosty condensation dripping down on us in the morning. The
slightest movement and we rolled into each other. Phil and I even managed
a few boxing matches during the night to gain extra space due to all
the space that Conan had managed to capture.
Every little task is an effort at altitude but we managed. We all ventured
up the North Ridge during our two night stay at the North Col, some higher
than others but all reaching new personal height records of upto 7600m.
The views are spectacular from here for the brief moments before the
next snow storm arrived. It was quite crowded on the col and this will
only get worse. Collecting snow and boiling water is a lengthy process
up here, but we all enjoyed lots of hot drinks, cupa' soups and boil
in the bag meals. Our Sherpa team were with us as always and starting
to transport gear to camp 2 at 7800m and preparing supplies for 8200m
camp.
It was great to descend again to the relative comfort of ABC. Peter descended
straight to BC deciding that beer and chicken was the lure to get there.
Wallid departed North Col first, 2 sleepless nights not suiting his temperament
at all. Phil looked after me on the descent and Conan passed by with
the video ready at all times. At one stage Peter tried to get rid of
Wallid but only succeeded in ripping the flysheet with his iceaxe.
So here we are at BC, resting and relaxing before our summit bid. Dave
had a bad cough and did not go to the North Col this time. He is now
on antibiotics and we are all here together in good shape. We are at
BC at the right time as the winds have increased dramatically, the jetplume
is in its glory and the weather forecast for the next few days is not
good with winds as strong as 140kmh.
Hopefully the weather will improve in one weeks times for a possible
summit attempt by the team !
Patricia.
Report
No 6 - Tuesday 29 April
I have been emailed today to let me know that the team have now gone
back to the North Col to spent tonight with the intention of pushing
upto around 7700m to the next camp. They will then probably descend back
to the North Col to sleep or ABC. The aim of acclimasation is to climb
high, sleep low.
The
weather forcast isnt looking good for them towards the
end of the week so they will return back to BC to rest and sit
and wait for the weather window to go for the summit. Dave and
other expeditions are looking for a summit bid around the 10th
May as long as the weather comes good.
The
fixed rope is fixed to top camp (8200m) and this week our sherpas
hope to fix the summit ridge.
The
team will now start to receive weather forcasts every other day
so they can moniter the weather.
I
have just spoken with Dave, he was calling from half way up the
North Col, the new Satalite phone is the size and weight of a
mobile phone. Hell probably be ordering room service or
a pizza at the North Col!!!.
Each
team member carries with them a hand held radio so throughout
the climb they have radio contact with ABC and each other.
Report
No 5 - 28 April - "BACK AT ABC"
Lassitude,
lethargy, langour. Or is it just downright laziness? One
of the most noticeable effects of spending time at this
altitude is the extreme level of apathy that results. Knowing
full well that you, our avid readers, have waited with
bated breath for further news of our progress we have battled
against this effect to bring you our fourth instalment:
We last left you on tenterhooks with two of our members (Peter and Walid)
about to spend the night above 7,000m on the North Col. Suffice to say
their night passed less than comfortably with them physically holding
the tent walls up in the gusting winds. The other tents (without the
same diligent occupiers) didn't fare quite so well, so the next morning
we sent Conan up, armed with needle and thread to repair the damage.
Having received enough of a beating, and our bodies starting to deteriorate
at the altitude we decided it high time to return to Base Camp (BC).
And what a wonderful decision it turned out to be: BC was positively
tropical by comparison, with its wonderfully thick inviting air and night
time temperatures barely below freezing. The four days we spent there
healed our bodies wonderfully, and we were left strong and ready for
our next foray up high above the snows.
But first the long walk to Advance Base Camp (ABC). 22 kilometres of
mind numbing plodding along what has euphemistically been titled the
Moraine Superhighway. This walk is not to be underestimated at it gains
over 1,000m and ends at an altitude of 6,400m - its hardly surprising
that other groups split the walk into 2 stages. Well not us, with our
penchant for pain, we just slog it out in one go (with varying degrees
of success). Phil, by way of example, arrived late at night with his
entourage in tow (1 Sherpa, 2 Yaks and accompanying herder) - well the
invite said bring guests!
All that brings us rather nicely to where we are now, as the title states,
back at ABC. Waiting for a storm to pass before we can venture higher
up the mountain (7,500m being our goal this time). If all then goes to
plan its another few days recuperating at BC, this time, however, waiting
for the 'weather window' which will lead to our summit bids.
Keep checking for another updates at that time ...
Report
No 4
21st April
All the team except Dave have returned back to BC to enjoy
a few well earned rest days. The team experienced another wild
stormy night at ABC before descending.
The
team will rest at BC for about 4 to 5 days before journeying
back to ABC to push higher up the mountain.
Its
an essential part of acclimaitisation that the team keep going
high &, dropping back down to BC, before going for the summit
they will have to endure that 22km walk from BC to ABC at least
2 more times.
April
20th
Conan & Patricia
has intended to go to the North Col to spent the night but weather
conditions and fresh snow prevented this. Whalid & Peter descended
back safely to ABC after a wild night at North Col in which the
wind caused 1 of our tents poles to bend (they have now been straightened).
Dave
had a meeting with other teams yesterday regarding the fixing
of the fixed lines past the North Col, all teams sherpas will
begin fixing the lines in the hope that weather permitting by
mid next week the lines will be fixed to 8200 metres. Our sherpas
are constantly carrying loads up to establish each camp.
19th
April
Peter
and Whalid moved back to the north Col to spend the night at 7000
metres, whilst the others rested at ABC.
18th
April
We have since then moved up to Advanced Base Camp, and some team members
have reached the North Col. We were all hoping that the cold of Base
Camp would abate the farther up the mountain, but strangely it is getting
colder and colder. We are, however, persevering ably.
Our
trip up to ABC, ~21,000, included a night at interim camp. The
population of interim camp, a truly miserably place equipped
with its own cess pool, was distinctly in favour of the yaks.
While Peter and Walid were about to call it a night they noticed
a yak tied just a few feet away from their tent. During the night
that lovely beast of burden decided to scratch its head on Walid's
side of the tent. Being asleep in a high altitude daze, Walid
thought that he was being attacked by the infamous yeti and dove
directly into Peter's arms. He was trapped between two equally
hairy beasts, and despite the efforts of the team he is still
in need of therapy.
We have established ourselves very comfortably at ABC, with all the amenities
of modern life, thought I can't get the New York Times to deliver. ABC
has become a verifiable metropolis as more and more teams arrive, but
our camp location is very pleasant.
The fixed lines leading to the North Col 7010m have been laboriously
installed by the Russian and Chinese teams, and have facilitated our
movement up the mountain.(Some equipment was supplied by Adventure Peaks
for this fixing) After arriving at ABC we spent two days acclimatising
by walking to the base of the fixed lines, and on the third & forth
days we pushed on to the top of the North Col. On day three, near the
top of the Col Conan, Peter, and Walid, in that order, were slowly marching
upward. Walid looked up at Peter, just 10 or 20 vertical meters ahead
of him, and chuckled at his pace of 1 step every ten seconds or more.
'I'll catch up in a moment' he thought. Half an hour later the distance
between them remained the same, and both were doing everything possible
not to sob like small children. The three weekend mountaineers persevered
and had a moment of splendid camaraderie at the Col. On day four lead
by Conan again, David and Patricia enjoyed the painful experience. Phil
still to complete acclimatisation will be getting to the col in the next
few days. In all four tents have been established at the col due to an
enormous effort by Purbar, Ringin, Conan, David & Patricia. Enough
equipment and supplies are in place at the col to push on to camp 7800m
weather permitting. .
The
dynamic between team members can often times be the funniest
thing during an expedition. The first thing to notice on our
expedition is that we have six people divided by a common language.
Each of us speaks English with a different accent and we regularly
have no idea what the other is saying. One mans bog role is a
another's toilet paper. And while Dave utilises the famously
subtle English wit, Walid hasn't a clue whether he is joking
or serious. We often revel in the blank stares of misunderstanding,
but laugh heartily afterwards.
Report
No 3 - 15th April 2003
The team are currently at Advanced Base Camp (ABC) which is
situated right under the North Col and North Ridge, they arrived
there on Saturday. Yesterday and today saw the fixing of the fixed
rope to the North Col at 7000metres by 2 other teams, our sherpas
will be involved in the fixing higher on the mountains as all the
teams sherpas assist in this task together.
The
team will do there first carry to the North Col tomorrow (Wednesday
16th) with the hope of erecting 4 tents. They will return to
ABC for a couple of days rest before returning back to the North
Col to try and sleep the night at 70000metres.
All
the team are well.
So
we know have 2 camps set up, 1 at Basecamp and 1 at ABC, each
camp has a cook tent and mess tent with cook and cookboy. The
team in effect have 2 homes, with 2 beds, 1 at each tent.
Life
at ABC is extremely hard, everything is a real effort moving
at 6400metres, and of course its extremely cold.
Adventure
Peaks is commited to keeping the mountain clean and to aid this
all rubbish and solid toilet waste is taken back down to BC to
be destroyed.
There
are many teams this year, including 2 TV camera crews.
The
team now have all there communication set up with radio links
to BC and ABC and the satalite phone and laptop enable the team
to contact home and obtain weather reports.
Report
No 2 - 8th April 2003
Most of the team met up at Heathrow in plenty of time for the
8:30pm departure to Kathmandu.
We
were met by a driver from Hotel Thamel at the airport and transported
to the hotel in the Thamel district of Kathmandu, near the heart
of the Tourist district.
All
services for the expedition were being handled by Ishwari who
proved very efficient which meant that there wasn't much preparation
left to do so Dave remained to finalise a few things while everyone
else visited a couple of the local Temples.
We
were scheduled to leave for Tibet on the Tuesday as we couldn't
sort out Chinese Visas until the Monday. We headed out of the
city for the day with a chance to stretch the legs for the 1st
time in the local foothills. We ascended to the village of Nagakort
which on a clear day offers amazing views of the Himalayas.
A
few final checks of equipment on the Monday and then we were
ready to depart. The lorry with all the gear left in the early
hours and the rest of us went by private bus at about 7am.
We
arrived at Zangmu on the Chinese border about lunchtime and quickly
passed through all the check points. We had to stay the night
in Zangmu as transport permits had not been finalised. The rooms
were very damp and the village was very dirty so we were glad
to leave the following morning for Nylam.
We
arrived here on Wednesday 2nd April and stayed for two night.
The village is at 3700m so gave us a good chance to acclimatise.
On the Thursday we had our 1st proper acclimatisation walk up
a local peak at 4300m. We were joined by all the cooks and sherpas.
Everyone was feeling strong and spirits were high.
On
the Friday we drove to Tingri, a very nice traditional Tibetan
village at 4250m. We again spent 2 nights here. The Sherpas and
Cooks stayed for just the one night, heading to Base Camp early
to set up camp. On Saturday 5th April we had our 2nd acclimatisation
walk up a local peak above Tingri at 4900m.
We
all then travelled on to Everest Base Camp for lunch on Sunday.
It was good to have a decent meal after several days of Chinese
food which proved very repetitive. The food at Base Camp which
is all cooked and served by our cook and cook boys has been fantastic
in the 3 days we've been here. We each have our own basecamp
tent to spread out in and have a great communal mess tent complete
with tables, chairs, table cloths and CD player. Washing is carried
out either by having a bowl of hot water, or by using the new
high tec shower which is a high power garden sprayer, luxury.
Base
Camp is filling quickly with many large expeditions including
3 expeditions with very large film crews. Also attempting the
mountain this year is Dick Bass, the 1st person to climb the
7 summits. If he summits, he will be the oldest person to summit
at 73 years.
We
will be heading to Advanced Base Camp for the 1st time on Friday
11th. Anil the Sirdar and 2 of the Sherpas will be heading up
to ABC on Wednesday 9th to set up ABC early in time for our arrival.
We hope to ascend to the North Col for the 1st time on the 15th
or 16th April.
A
further report will follow after this.
Conan
Harrod
Report
No 1 - 28th March 2003
On Thursday 27th March 5 of the above team left Heathrow for Kathmandu,
the start of their Everest Expedition. Peter from Australia will meet
the team in Kathmandu.
The
Team will again be led by Dave Pritt, Director of Adventure Peaks
who summitted Everest last year along with 2 team members. Also
part of the team again is Patricia McGuirk from Ireland who is
attempting Everest for the 2nd time, last year Patricia reached
the North Col at 7000metres.
The
Team will spend 4 days in Kathmandu whilst final preparations
are made, they will meet their team of climbing sherpas, cooks
and porters who they will spend the next 60 days with.Once permits
have been obtained they will leave Kathmandu crossing the border
into Tibet bound for Everest Base Camp on Tuesday 1st April.
The
journey will take 5 to 6 days to reach basecamp which is situated
on the Rongbuk Glacier at 5200 metres,along the way they will
carry out acclimatisation walks.
Unlike
the South side, the team along with all their sherpas and cooks
and vasts amount of equipment will be driven right to basecamp.
The
Team will hopefully be one of the first teams to arrive to enable
them to establish good campsite locations which will be home
for them for the next 6 to 8 weeks.
The
Team over the next 8 weeks will be emailing progress reports
home which will be updated on this site, you can now follow their
progress and read their stories.
We
wish them all a safe successful expedition and hope they reach
the top of the world.
If
anybody has any questions regarding the Everest Expedition please
don't hesitate to contact me
either by email or phone.
Read
the reports from our previous Everest expeditions |