A Diary of Events from The North Ridge
2004
| The Team |
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BBC Team |
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Sherpas |
| Dave Pritt |
Expedition Leader |
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Rachel Skelton |
TV Assistant Producer |
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1. |
Tashi Sherpa - Climbing Sherpa,
summitted Everest twice, along with Ama Dablam & Cho
ouy |
| Paul Noble |
Assistant Leader |
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Ewen Thomson |
TV Director |
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2. |
Lhakpa Tshing Sherpa - Climbing
Sherpa, summated Everest once before |
| Tom Clowes |
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Paul Moores |
Camera Safety Support |
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3. |
Kul Bahadur - Cook |
| Ben Clowes |
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John Whittle |
Camerman |
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4. |
Surendra Kumar Gurung - Cook |
| Serena Brocklebank |
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5. |
Gyan Bahadur Tamang - Cook |
| Ray Smith |
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6. |
Thundu Sherpa - Climbing Sherpa,
summated Everest once before |
| Dr Mike Brennan |
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7. |
Anil Bhattasai - Sirdair |
| Kevin Donovan |
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8. |
Phurpa Ridar Bhote - Climbing
Sherpa, summated everest once before |
| Richard Taylor |
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9. |
Mingma Nuru Sherpa - Climbing
Sherpa, summated Everest twice, Ama Dablam, Cho oyu |
| Iain Gibb |
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10. |
Mingma Tenzing Sherpa - Climbing
Sherpa |
| Tony Griffiths |
(BBC Challenger) |
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We would like to take this opportunity to thank the following companies
for all their help and support and for the items they have kindly given
to support our team,
- Lowe Alpine
- KTD
- Learn Direct
- Nestle
- Branston
- Premier Food
REPORTS (in reverse order)
Report 15 -Friday 21st May - The Team
have aborted their Summit Attempt
Dave called early this morning to let me know that our team have decided
to abort their summit attempt and are currently on their way down back
to ABC. The team were involved yesterday in assisting climbers who were
coming back from summit attempts in bad ways, unfortunately some of the
climbers from other teams have not returned. The following websites have
more information about what has been happening, www.mounteverest.com, www.everestnews.com.
It's extremely difficult to express the disappointment for the team, all
of which have dedicated the last year to preparing for this. On the other
hand, we have to admire the courage that every one of them made the decision
to turn around as they had doubts about carrying on.
The team have asked me to thank the sherpas, who throughout the expedition
have done a splendid job getting everything in place ready for them, and
the last few days the sherpas have been with the team, carrying & ensuring
the team have been fed & watered at each high camp. As the team descend,
the sherpas will now start the task of stripping down each camp and carrying
all the equipment back to ABC.
The team hope to be back into Kathmandu on the 27th May and to the UK shortly
after that.
I would like to thank every one for all the support and kind words of encouragement
for the team that we have received over the last 2 months
Report 14 - Thursday 20th
May Emails & calls from Dave at ABC
First Email:
The weather overnight at 7800m was Windy together with some snow fall.
The 7.30am radio call included quite a bit of discussion as to what to
do, move up, stay put or abandon the summit attempt. The weather forecast
shows a reasonable summit window for Friday and a chance of precipitation
today Thursday together with winds 20-30knts. Other groups have summitted
this morning (Thur) or are close to the summit in clear weather and minimal
wind, ABC is wind free so it appears the group are in a band of cloud and
wind at 7800m.
The group have decided to push up to the top camp at 8300m in the hope
that the winds and snow they are experiencing will gradually drop. Next
update 2.5hrs
Second Email:
The group finally decided the weather was too windy to move up to 8300m
today and are spending tonight at 7800m in the hope that the weather will
have improved by morning for a new summit attempt on the 22nd. Unfortunately
if it remains the same, our summit will be abandoned and the group will
return to ABC.
The past four days have shown a similar forecast, we have been unlucky
to date with the amount of precipitation that has fallen; hopefully things
will come good in the morning.
Satellite Call, 7am this morning:
The group are all ok, they are currently looking after other climbers that
summited yesterday & today that are arriving into their camp in bad
ways, and they are making them hot drinks and getting them warm. Mike is
currently on his way down the North Col back to ABC to join Dave.
Dave has confirmed today that the team will leave for the summit
at around 1am on Saturday morning (weather depending), and
that Summit Turn around time will be 11am (6am our time)
Report No 13 - Wednesday
19th May From Jill Pinkerton Adventure Peaks Office
Firstly I'm sorry that our website hasn't kept updated
the last few days, technical problems, which are now fixed.
As you will read below, due to high winds the team stayed at 7500metres
last night. Today they moved to 7800metres. Mike is now apparently on his
way down after reaching 7740metres. The remaining team are all well and
again in good spirits, they are all being well looked after by our Sherpa
team. Tomorrow the team will move to 8200metres, to summit on the 21st.
It's apparently snowing hard on the mountain. All the team but Ray (who
is using POISK) went on their oxygen system yesterday.
Report No 12 - Tuesday
18th May From Jill Pinkerton Adventure Peaks Office
All the team are now at 7500metres, apparently its been
a day of slow progress due to winds, but all the team are
well. The plan for today was for Rick, Ray, Ben & Tom
to push to 7800metres to summit on the 20th May, with Mike,
Serena, Paul & Ian to stay at 7500m, tonight, and summit
on the 21st. The team will all now summit on the 21st May.
The weather forecast is to snow tonight which could have
an impact on summit attempts. Dave reported that all the
team were in good spirits.
The BBC Challenger Tony, decided he had had enough of Everest on Saturday,
therefore all the BBC team are now safely back at BC and are heading to
Kathmnadu on the 20th May.
Also, I spoke with Kevin the other day, who is now back home in the states,
hes suffering from 2 broken ribs from coughing whilst on Everest, we wish
him a quick recovery.
I will keep you posted as we hear news on Tuesday onwards,
Monday 17th May
The team left ABC this morning set for the North Col, to summit on the
20th May. All the team safely arrived at the North Col, unfortunately Dave
who has been suffering from a chest infection & sore throat had to
return to ABC, from where he will now remain in constant touch with the
rest of the team who are with Paul and all the climbing sherpas.
Report No 11 - Thursday
13th May From Jill Pinkerton Adventure Peaks Office
The team are on the move up... they left BC this morning; some of the team
are walking the 22km slog to ABC in one day, whilst others are doing it
in two days. All the team are doing really well, apart from the usual sore
throats and coughs. We are constantly looking at the weather reports that
are coming in daily, and its looking like the 17 & 18th May with even
better summit weather on the 20 & 21st May, if this is so, the team
will wait for the better weather on the 20 & 21st. We will keep you
updated. The team of 9 (which includes both Dave & Paul) will all attempt
the Summit together on the same day, along with sherpa summit for Serena & Mike.
Once they leave ABC (6400metres) this is their route to the
summit:
Day 1 ABC to North Col (7000metres), Day 2 North Col to 7800 metre camp,
Day 3 7800 camp to 8200metre camp, Day 4 8200metre (approx 2am start) to
The Summit, then back to 7800 camp, if not 8200 camp.
The team before leaving ABC will be told by Dave the Turn Around Time for
Summit day. All of the team will be in constant touch with each other and
ABC as they are all carrying hand held 2 way radios. Dave will also be
carrying the satellite phone in order to keep me informed of the Teams
progress. During Summit time we will endeavour to get the website updated
as quick as we can.
Its an exciting time for the Team members, this is what they have been
preparing for, for such a long timeÉÉ for those back home
who have loved ones away its an extremely emotional, stressful time as
we sit and wait for their safe return, all of us though have been with
our partners, sons, daughters through all their preparations and their
dream to climb Everest,
We wish the whole team a safe success, buts it's also important
at this stage to say that the fact they have all reached
7000metres and spent 2 nights there is a huge achievement
in its self.
Report No 10 - Monday 10th
May
Well, we've been sitting out strong winds for the past week down at BC.
The last couple of days, however, the winds have dropped and we've been
able to relax in the sun on our makeshift 'patio' outside the mess tent,
renamed the Buena Vista Social Club.
A typical day has consisted of: breakfast at 8am for 8.30am, we then linger
until 10.30am when we adjourn lingering for morning 'real' coffee and biscuits.
More lingering occurs until lunch at 12.30pm. After lunch we socialise
or take part in an afternoon activity until 4o'clock club where we drink
more coffee and consume more biscuits. Dinner is at 7pm when the temperature
drops dramatically and bedtime promptly follows at 8.30pm to 9pm.
There has been various added excitement throughout the week. The strong
winds have kept us busy. In one strong gust, during a magnificent lunch,
the side of the mess tent collapsed requiring Herculean effort to repair
and reinforce. Two toilet tents took a flying tour of the moraine. This
has required the services of the Rongbuk Bog Builders to construct a stone
toilet and a second roofless squarehouse out of the remains of its predecessor.
The BBC office tent didn't quite make it either, receiving swift attention
from the dismantling crew.
A fully reinforced camp has allowed us to focus our efforts, not on the
wind, but on more relaxing activities. We have received free golfing lessons
from our resident Golf Pro, Iain. Some of us need more help than others.
Interestingly, a golf ball at 5200m travels half as far again as it would
at sea level due to the lack of air resistance - science at our fingertips!
I have been flying the 3.0m kite I brought, taking advantage of the sunny
days and brisk winds. Ben, Tom and Ray have been busy cultivating their
beards (there may be an element of competition!). There has been plenty
of sponsorship photos being taken. This group of hardened mountaineers
are now the new faces of Branston Pickle, the ever increasingly popular
Nestle Condensed Milk, P20 sun protection and Buff.
We are all waiting in eager anticipation of our summit bid and it's that
thought that's keeping us going through this long period of waiting. It's
getting closer!
Rick
Report No 9 Tuesday 4th May From Tom
Clowes BC
On April 29th the team returned back to base camp from having spent
a couple of weeks at 6,400m and above. They spent 2 nights at just over
7,000m on the North Col which does take it out of you. It is cold and windy
at BC but the air is much thicker so they will be able to recover properly
before moving back up the mountain in a week or so. Eating and drinking
is their main aim. Tom's socks are toxic and he has trouble breathing in
his tent! Iain is making a good recovery after his dehydration episode
on the North Col. Ray is nursing a high altitude cough but it seems to
be easing now at a lower altitude. Young Rick is extremely proud of his
beard which is thicker in some places than others. He loves the quiz book
and even as I write he is reading out questions to the rest of us! Ben
takes great pride in answering most of them correctly. Serena (the cleanest
of us all) has already done her laundry while the rest of us have put it
off, blaming the weather! I think we have all made use of Dave's shower
to wash ourselves. This is a true luxury - Thank you Dave! Mike, our doc,
is doing superbly well and though he appears to have lost some weight he
now looks about 33, he is tanned and the sun has bleached his hair! Paul
is dreaming of his Adventure Racing Calender back in the UK - not sure
where he'd rather be, doing the 'Adrenaline Rush' or climbing Everest!!
The food here at BC is unbelievably good and Ganu should be working in
the Ritz. He does us proud. We are all missing Kevin and hope that he has
returned safely to the States by now and made a full recovery.
Once we know when the weather window will be and the team starts making
their way back up the mountain, we will keep you all informed on a daily
basis.
Report No 8 - Wednesday
28th April - Jill Pinkerton Adventure Peaks Office
Following on from yesterdays report, when I noted that
Kevin was returning to ABC on Thursday with Tony and that
he was feeling better, it has now turned out that Kevin has
sadly had to leave BC & the team today to return to Kathmandu
(he'll arrive there Thursday) as he has been diagnosed by
another teams doctor who was at BC with pleurisy.
Tony & Ewen plan to go to ABC, taking 2 days leaving on Friday. The
rest of the team are currently descending the 22km back to BC, Dave will
follow to BC tomorrow as he has stayed behind to co ordinate with our sherpas
the setting up of all our remaining camps ensuring that whilst the team
are resting at BC the next 7 to 10 days waiting for the weather window,
that when it does arrive, everything is in place in order to allow their
summit bid to take place. The team will now be starting to monitor the
weather reports that are been emailed to BC & ABC, looking for that
spell when the winds will die.
From myself in the office, and the team we wish Kevin a speedy recovery,
we are all thinking of him.
Report No 7 - Tuesday 27th
April - Jill Pinkerton
The group have returned safely from the North Col back to ABC today. They
will then return to BC tomorrow. Kevin & Tony are preparing to leave
BC on Thursday to walk to ABC, they are both feeling a lot better now.
Our Sherpas are doing a grand job, since arriving on the mountain they
have been busy setting up each camp, which involves carrying huge loads
up and down the North Col, as well as playing a major role on the mountain
by fixing the ropes, Dave reported this morning that they have now fixed
the ropes to 7800metres, and have set up the teams camp at 7800metres,
they will remain at ABC and continue to prepare the other 2 camps as well
as carrying all the teams oxygen supplies.
Update from Conan Harrod on his progress,
1 year on
It is now the end of April and the 2004 Everest team are doing well. Most
of the team members have already reached the North Col. It's amazing to
think that it was nearly a year ago that I was battling against the odds
to survive from an injury that would have almost certainly killed me if
it had happened any higher on the mountain or on the descent later in the
day.
Despite the frustration of still not being able to fully exercise the legs
in any way, I am finding the reports on this year expedition a nice distraction.
By the end of 2003, the specialists at the local hospital were concerned
that I may have to undergo a major operation due to the fact that the main
fracture had stopped healing. Fortunately on my last checkup in March 2004,
things had improved enough to rule out completely any further operations
and suddenly I could finally see a light at the end of the tunnel. There
is still some movement in the fracture sight so it will still be some months
before serious exercise can start. I can walk around quite comfortably
now and in the mornings it is not obvious that I am carrying an injury.
Since December I have started training hard at the Gym to improve my upper
body strength and I am now stronger than I have been in my life. Just in
the last week or two, I have started adapting some of the leg exercise
machines to allow me to use them without risk of damaging the fracture.
At least I can start to regain some of the strength in my legs.
I have pretty much decided now that a return to climb Everest in 2005 would
be far too ambitious and dangerous for myself and the rest of the team
as I would not have given myself sufficient time to regain my strength
and confidence. I will therefore be attempting to summit with Adventure
Peaks on the 2006 expedition and my work have already agreed to give me
the 2 months off that I require. I am even going through the process of
purchasing all the replacement High altitude gear I lost on the trip so
there will be no backing out then !
Peter Madew who suffered frostbite in his fingers as a result of his rescue
efforts has now pretty much recovered after an operation at the end of
last year to remove the tips of 3 fingers. I hope to meet up with him on
a possible trip to Australia at Christmas on route to New Zealand for my
next planned expedition in January 2005 to climb Mount Cook and Mount Tasman.
Like most plans at the moment, this could change.
Good Luck to the Everest 2004 team. I wish them every success and a safe
return.
Conan Harrod
Report No 6 - Monday 26th April 2004
From Jill Pinkerton, Adventure Peaks Office
Dave has just called the office from his bed at the North Col (7000metres)
to let us know that everyone is doing great and ok. They left ABC as planned
Sunday, from which they ascended back to the North Col, and spent Sunday
night at 7000metres. Today (Monday) they have all ascended along the North
Ridge to around 7200metres before retreating back to their tents on the
North Col to spend their second night at 7000metres. Tuesday they will
return to ABC then to BC on Wednesday to enjoy clean clothes, powered shower,
rest and a beer at the BC Tibetan Beer tent.
Report No 5 - Friday 23rd April -
From Jill Pinkerton, Adventure Peaks Office
Great news Dave called this morning to let us know that
8 of the team (including Dave & Paul) reached the North
Col yesterday (7000metres), Serena also did a great job
and reached about 6400. (Kevin & Tony are still at
BC with chest infections) The team returned to ABC yesterday,
everybody is really well and pleased. They are enjoying
a well deserved rest today and tomorrow, then Sunday they
hope to go back to the North Col to spend the night, with
the hope that in the morning they push to about 7300, before
dropping back to ABC, then BC on Tuesday next week, weather
permitting. Once at BC they will enjoy a good long rest
before moving back up. The Teams laptop at ABC is having
technical charging problems (not bad at 6400metres, with
-25 temperatures) therefore the team can not currently
send/receive emails until they return to BC, they do however
still have use & access to the sat phone to contact
family & loved ones. For information, even though the
team are climbing the North Side in Tibet, they do however
work on Nepal time, therefore they are 5 hours ahead of
GMT.
We continue to wish the team a safe and successful expedition, and keep
our fingers crossed that the 'weather window' comes good!!
Report No 4 - 21 April
2004 from Tom Clowes at Advanced Base Camp
We have now been at ABC for 5 days and we are becoming
more acclimatised at 6,400m. Life at this altitude certainly
does drain your body! Yesterday we walked up to the base
of the fixed ropes on the North Col which was a beautiful
walk. Tomorrow we plan to leave early and climb to the
top of the North Col at 7,000m. The weather has been sunny
but when the sun goes in it gets extremely cold. The other
night we recorded an outside temperature of -17 degrees.
Tony and Kevin went back down to BC a couple of days ago as they were
not feeling great. We are in regular radio contact with them and they
are feeling much better and hope to return to ABC within the next few
days.
There is not a lot to do here at ABC except eat and drink lots! There
is a vole that scurries around our Mess Tent every now and then looking
for scraps. We have named it Roger!
The Team currently now have 2 basecamps, of which they have a bed and
clothes at each camp, along with a mess tent complete with tables and
chairs, CD player. At each camp they also have cooks which prepare and
serve the team fantastic meals.
The proposed programme for the next few days, weather depending will
be once they have been to the North Col (7000metres), they will then
rest a day or two, before returning to the North Col to spend the night,
before descending right back to BC for a well earned 6 day rest, before
heading back up the mountain.
Report No 3 - Tuesday 13
April 2004 from Tom Clowes at Base Camp
On the 11th April we had the Puja Ceremony where a
lama came up from the Rongbuk Monastery to bless all of
us and our gear before moving any further up the mountain.
The Sherpas made an altar out of surrounding stones and
strung up prayer flags all to give good luck and to keep
the mountain gods happy! Juniper was burnt and we all threw
rice and tsampa into the air and over each other! Tibetan
tea was drunk and the Lama tied bits of string around our
necks to keep us safe! It was an interesting morning for
us all as several of us had never experienced a Puja before.
Over the last few days we have been acclimatising by walking up the valley
sides. The scale of the mountains here is vast and the views are spectacular.
Today (13th April) we tried to gain as much height as possible before
we move on up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Rick and Ray got to 6,000m
while the rest of us reached heights of around 5,850m.
Serena and Paul joined us yesterday. Its good to have the whole team
together again.
Report No 2 - Friday 9
April 2004 from Mike Brennan at Base Camp
After all meeting up at Heathrow on the 29th, we had
an uneventful trip through to Kathmandu, and were smoothly
transferred to the comfortable Hotel Vajra. A great evening
meal followed at Rum Doodle's...(Dave, being a summiteer
gets free meals there. How we would love to share the privilege....).
Surprisingly good food on the warm roof-top terrace, good
company, no biting insects...what more could we ask for?
Three days in Kathmandu followed, with everyone buying last minute things,
and lots of really cheap, but good quality, gear from "Shona's".
Dave was sorting the formalities, and then off we went to the border
by coach. The transfer there across the border went smoothly enough,
and our hotel in Zhangmu was adequate. The Chinese food sequence began
thereafter, good quality, lots of it, but every meal????
The journey from Zhangmu was in Toyota Land-Cruisers. Speedy and comfortable,
just an hour to Nyalam, much improved lodge there since my last visit
in '98, and there was a very modern-looking Internet Cafe!!! The team
continued to bond over the next 24 hours, and we had a decent acclimatisation
walk above the town, in good weather, up to 4200m.
The next day saw another drive through superb Tibetan scenery to Tingri,
more Tibetan than Chinese in appearance, and little changed to my eye
from the past visits. We managed a good walk next day up towards 4800m,
a few feeling the height by now, but no serious problems. Everest was
visible, though in mostly greyish skies, and far from dominant, except
perhaps in our thoughts. The Sherpas set off a day before us to try and
set up camp.
Yesterday, a stunning 4 hour drive through small communities scratching
a living in harsh surroundings finally brought us to the famed Rongbuk
monastery, with the even more famous view of mighty Everest towering
over us all. Beautiful to those who notice these things, and very, very
big! Some of us seemed quiet, and there were definitely a few watery
eyes.....maybe the dusty wind?
Then the last few kilometres to the Base Camp at 5200m, where few groups
seemed to have arrived. The tents were all up and well secured with stones,
the gear was laid out in orderly lines, the large mess-tent for 16 was
ready for our meal, and here we are. What a superb team of Sherpas! No
missing gear, excellent food under our belts (better than at home was
heard at the table), and linked, somewhat temperamentally, by sat phone
to the world again. We are all in decent health, spirits are high, and
we are all very happy to be here. We do not underestimate what may lie
ahead, and look forward to moving up to ABC, probably on Thursday. Four
Sherpas have set off today to begin establishing ABC, which will be similar
in almost every way to BC, but at 6200m it will be colder still.
Report No 1 - 19th March
2004
The Team are currently packing and preparing to leave, they will meet
at Heathrow on the 29th March, arriving into Kathmandu 30th March from
which they will spend 3 days finishing packing all the equipment, meeting
there sherpas and sightseeing. Adventure Peaks staff Jill & Dave
are just finishing packing 60 blue barrels packed with all equipment
and food (which can not be bought locally), these start there journey
by freight on the 19th March.
Once leaving Kathmandu the team will travel overland into Tibet arriving
at Everest Basecamp approx 6 days later. From here, once basecamp(BC)
is established and all communication systems have been set up the team
will email reports of their expedition and progress.
We would like to take this opportunity to wish the whole team an enjoyable,
safe expedition, and hope that they all achieve their goal.
Jill Pinkerton
Adventure Peaks
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