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Ama Dablam Expedition 20th Oct 2012

By November 6, 2012Current Trips

A beautiful and challenging mountain in the heart of the Himalaya. Leader: Stu Peacock

View Ama Dablam details and book online

6th November: Leader, Stu Peacock, has just called with a quick update from the summit of Ama Dablam to say that they have summited in bright and clear conditions. With strong winds and a very cold assent it’s been a challenge but they are now enjoying 360 degree views including Everest and Cho Oyu. Stu expects to move back down to Camp 1 today and Base Camp tomorrow. We will get a more detailed report in a couple of days.

5th November: We are now at Camp 2. Friedhelm and John have decided to head back to Base Camp. John is suffering with another altitude headache, but wants to have another crack in a couple of days. Friedhelm has a bad cold which he hopes he can shift at a lower altitude. It was a hard day for folk carrying a full pack over the steep terrain to Camp 2. Especially the yellow tower.

Well we are here now and it looks like we have the mountain to ourselves as nobody else is in camp. We plan to leave for our summit bid at 3.30am Nepali time and hope to reach the summit in 7-9 hours.

5th November: All the team are back at Camp 1. From tomorrow we will split the team. Carrie, Walid, Angus, myself and two sherpa will move to camp 2. John, Friedhelm and a sherpa will climb to Camp 2 and then head back down to camp 1 and eventually Base Camp for a further rest. Stu

3rd November: We’re now at Camp 1 at a height of 5780m. John and Friedhelm stayed for a while and headed back to Yak Camp to get a better sleep. Lucy headed down to Pangboche today after staying at Yak Camp. The rest of us will spend the night at Camp 1 and push along to Camp 2 tomorrow (4th Nov). John and friedhelm will join us again tomorrow for the night at Camp 1 before heading down to base camp. Stu

1st November: Most of the team have been up to Camp 2 as planned, then came back down to Camp 1 for the night. All of us are now down at Base Camp again, ready for our rest day tomorrow. We will decide whether or not to take a second rest day before we then all head up the mountain again together. The weather is still good on the whole although it is a bit breezier this afternoon.

30th October: We are currently at Camp 1 (5780m) and will be heading up to Camp 2 shortly. Our plan is to come back down to Camp 1 for this evening and then head back to Base Camp tomorrow. Weather is cold but bright and sunny and everyone is doing well. John and Friedhelm are heading back down to Yak Camp today with a sherpa for a days rest before going higher. Stu

29th October: We have now arrived at Yak Camp (Interim Camp at 5430m) and aim to be going up to Camp 1 tomorrow night. We plan on spending the 1 night there then heading up for a night at Camp 2 then returning back to Yak Camp for another evenings rest. Lucy is still here with us and will be trekking out tomorrow.

The team are still in great spirits, strong and enjoying the trip. Its very good weather but very cold now. We heard its been a very cold October in general but forecast for becoming milder now. Stu

27th October: Today we arrived at Ama Dablam Base camp at 4450m where our Sherpas have already set up camp for us. The weather has been good with just some cloud building up in the afternoon and there are fantastic views of the dramatic mountain above us. The higher camps are just out of site on the other side.

Today we also went for a walk up to 4800m to help with acclimatisation. Everyone is well and getting ready to wrap up in their down jackets for the evening meal as it is chilly at this altitude! Tomorrow will be primarily a rest day, although we may practice some skills and have a gentle walk to better acclimatise before the next stage of proceeding to Camp 1.

26th October: We’re all well here in Pangboche. The team all decided to carry on 40 minutes up the valley rather than stay at Deboche. The team are all strong and doing really well. We had lunch at Tengboche and had time to look around the monastery.

We’ve met the Mera and Island peak team at the lodge who are on the way out. They climbed both peaks. Stu

25th October: The team went up to Everest view hotel and Khumjung today and were presented with stunning views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse, Cholatse and of course Everest.

Everyone was in total awe of the mountain and it’s truly beautiful shape and all are totally psyched for the climb. Tomorrow we descend to Phunge Tenga for lunch and then work our way up to Tyangboche before descending to Deboche for our lodgings for the evening. Stu

24th October: We’re now at Namche Bazaar, everyone is well and we made very good time. Four hours walking plus a lunch stop at Jorsale. Photo taken having lemon tea at the Yak hotel in Namche Bazaar.

Perfect weather for walking up the valley from Phakding via Monjo. Final few steps into Namche Bazaar and you can feel the altitude kicking in we’re now as we are at a height of 3450m. I think a visit to one of the now many bakeries will be in order this afternoon.

23rd October: Message from Stu… We’re at the sunrise lodge in Phakding, which is the same as the ultimate Everest Base camp group so nice to have a big Adventure Peaks posse. Everyone is getting on really well and it’s looking like a strong group.

It’s great to be back out here and seeing a lot of other leaders i know as well as sherpa staff. We have Gayn as cook who is just fantastic. I’ve already met two of the Sherpa’s and they seem really nice. Pasang and Phur Temba are with us and Lhakpa is up at Ama Dablam Base Camp. We’re heading up to Namche Bazaar tomorrow where we will have a rest day the day after tomorrow. We should also get our first views of Ama Dablam.

23rd October: The team has arrived in Lukla and all is well. We have met up with John who was waiting at Lukla. We are just having a spot of lunch before trekking to Phakding.

Our photo was taken at Paradise Lodge. We boarded the plane at 10.30 but were delayed by two hours due to winds at Lukla. The flight was 35 minutes and no problems. The Group are all excited to be on the move.

21st October, Stu’s first report: All the team have arrived safely in Kathmandu. John is already in Lukla and will meet us on Tuesday all being well. I have the ministry briefing tomorrow and then the final sorting of the kit.

I am meeting back up with the group in half an hour for dinner. The rest of the team will enjoy a relaxing day by the pool and a bit of sightseeing while i get things ready… I might even have a dip myself if i have time! All the team are very excited to be out in Nepal and looking forward to the challenges ahead.

Being the polite person that he is Walid was shocked that he accidentally locked Friedhelm in the room for 2.5 hours. He thought the external slide bolt was connected on both sides of the door…it wasn’t.

Stu Peacock

About Stu Peacock

Stu Peacock is a very experienced high altitude mountaineer who has been to the Summit of Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and climbed on K2. His other expeditions include: Manaslu, Ama Dablam, Peak Lenin, Aconcagua, Khan Tengri, Tien Shan Unclimbed, Korzhenevskaya, Baruntse, Mera & Island Peak, Alpamayo, Bolivian Peaks, Spantik, Elbrus, Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro. He was the first Brit to summit Everest via the North Ridge 3 times.


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