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How do I choose a Mountaineering Boot for 7000m Peaks?

By May 12, 2016Expert advice
mountaineering boot for 7000m

Adventure Peaks stocks the widest range of High Altitude boots anywhere in the UK, we are the only place you can try on multiple types of double and triple boots and compare the fit under one roof. We are the altitude experts!

Here are the options for a mountaineering boot for 7000m…

Boreal G1 Lite

This boot has been part of our hire stock for over a decade and has performed well on the lower 7000m peaks (Himlung Himal is one of the exceptions as it is quite a cold mountain). The boot is fairly broad and slightly heavier than the new boots on the market, but cost effective.

mountaineering boot for 7000m

Boreal G1 Lite ’16

An updated version of the classic G1 has a slightly higher ankle gaiter made of neoprene to keep out snow. It is a touch lighter with green styling for our trendier customer!

Scarpa Phantom 6000m

I tested these on Peak Lenin a few years ago with the intention of also testing ‘Primaloft Socks’ to add warmth but the boots performed well and my feet were too warm to test this new generation of socks. These boots have a good integrated gaiter with a single zip.

Sportiva Spantik

Probably the warmest 7000m boot on the market with a lacing system you will love or hate, again well tested and great on peaks like Muztag Ata, Himlung Himal or anything  over 7200m.

Sportiva G2

the new kid on the block, ultra-light and good looking! Currently we have seen it tested by UIAGM Guide Martin Doyle on our Aconcagua expedition in January with good reports back. It has been rated by Sportiva for 7000m Peaks and probably weighs half that of the Spantik. It has a lovely twist knob lacing system that allows for quick and adjustable fitting.

Older boots

Out of fashion now are Scarpa Vega and Scarpa Omega which are made of stiff plastic and are relatively heavy clumsy things compared with the modern equivalents. In many attics are old Koflac or Asolo plastic boots, famous for the unavoidable squeak, squeak as you walk. A word of warning, the plastic on these boots have had a tendency to degrade and crack due to the age of the plastic. I always remember a chap out on one of our Scottish Training meets started off with shiny yellow plastic boots and within a few miles we had totally tapped up his boots with gaffer tape to get him back down to the car park, a far more serious outcome would have been the result on a 7000m peak! Leave them in the attic.

Insulation

All of the above boots, comprise an outer insulated shell and a removable insulated inner boot. Normally you would wear this type of boot on mountains over 6000m-6400m such as Mera Peak. A little over the top for Scotland and Summer Alpine mountaineering where a good single B3 boot would be best, unless of course you are just getting us to the feel.

Planning on 8000m+, Antarctica or Alaska

If your plan is to go higher or to Antarctica or Alaska in the future or generally feel the cold then you may wish to consider upgrading to one of our 8000m boots. These are described as triple boots and have an additional insulated outer layer in the form of an integrated gaiter. We can supply:

Millet Everest Summit GTX –  it is likely 70% of climbers on Mount Everest and other 8000m peaks will be wearing this boot, it has captured the market and is probably the warmest boot available removing the probability of cold injuries (frostbite) to the toes. We have the old style still available which for multiple trips is probably better as it has a harder sole unit to resist erosion over rocks. The updated version has a red, yellow and black eye catching dseign and is the lightest boot of this grade on the market, but like the Sportiva Mons it has a soft but very insulated sole unit that will waer quickly when not wearing crampons.  we are the only UK stockist of this boot. Adventure Peaks is the only UK stockist of Millet Everest boots

La Sportiva Mons Evo – a bargain can be got with the old version (we have a few pairs) as the changes to the new model are only cosmetic ‘look good’ styling changes (red, yellow and Black)that will cost you an additional £200! The Mons is a good boot and it is now just down to what fits you best. View older style La Sportiva Mons Evo.

Scarpa Phantom 8000m – the classic Scarpa 8000m boots which now has the most robust sole on the market. We currently have the full size range on offer; grab a bargain while you can. The newer version I think has an over complicated spiral zip and very soft sole!

Want a bargain – we have a wide selection of used hire boots that gradually get reduced down in price after each use. You can also hire expedition gear including boots and if you like, buy them after and we deduct your hire fee. Call us on 01539433794 for details of our ex hire stock.

OK that’s the main choice you have for quality High Altitude boots and it is all then down to the fit. If you want to try them all on under one roof in one day then the only place in the UK or probably worldwide is Adventure Peaks. We charge an upfront fee of £25 for the service which we deduct if you purchase; it costs us a fortune to hold this stock! We are open 7 days a week but allow at least a couple of hours for your visit and we close a 5.30pm

What if I don’t live in the UK or haven’t got time to travel North (just 2hrs 40 from London on the Virgin West coast line). Simply e-mail us an outline of your foot, with a physical measurement added from toe to heel  to enable us to ensure no scaling has occurred in printing and we will send you what we think will fit (normally we are 95% accurate!)

We have found the best sock to go with either the 7000m or 8000m boot is the knee length the Bridgedale Summit Endurance sock with a thin thermal liner sock beneath for added comfort. You should wear this or another combination at the time of boot fitting. You aim is to feel the boot lightly holding your foot in place, with wiggle space (+1cm) for your toes  and no pressure points that would reduce circulation. It is common for your feet to swell (water retention)a little at high altitude. If unsure wear two liner socks) when purchasing your boots (or one thick and change to thin) and as your feet swell remove one. Heel lift can be reduced with the use of volume reducer/footbed insoles

Dave Pritt, Adventure Peaks Director

Dave Pritt

About Dave Pritt

Dave Pritt is the Director of Adventure Peaks. With over 30 years of mountaineering feats, he is a very experienced high altitude mountaineer who has led expeditions to K2, Broad Peak and five Everest expeditions. Dave has completed the 7 summits, led an expedition to Ski the South Pole Last Degree, Satopanth in India and in 2007 he guided Ian McKeever to break the world record for the seven summits in 156 days. He is lucky enough to have climbed on the majority of our advertised peaks, but the Tien Shan remains his favourite destination.

2 Comments

  • dennis barrow says:

    Hey there , is the la sportiva g5 a suitable boot for mara peak ?
    Thanks Dennis

    • Alice Chivers says:

      Hi Dennis,
      We would recommend the La Sportiva G2 for Mera Peak, the G5 wouldn’t be warm enough as it isn’t a double boot.
      Thanks

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