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Everest Expedition News 2011

By May 12, 2011Current Trips

NEW WORLD and BRITISH RECORDS for Climbing Everest

The Team Leaders : Zac P & Chris S
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Team: Nick C, Abdul S, George Atkinson, Geordie Stewart, Ben T, Simon K, Andrew R, Greg H, Heather G, Stephen G, Mark W, Jaysen A

27th May 14.30
The team are now all back safe at ABC

27th May 09.00
The final team members have arrived now at the North Col and will carry on down to ABC today. Where some welcome milky tea and some proper food will greet them. Once again well done to all the team especially Heather, Simon and Bhola for keeping track of where people where on the mountain through the night.

26th May 14.30 final update for today
All are safely in camp. At camp 3 (8300m) is Zac, Greg and Mark. At camp 2 (7800m) Andrew, Ben, Geordie, Salam, Jaysen, George Atkinson at the  North Col (7010m) Nick then finally at ABC is Chris and Stephen

26th May 13.15 Update
We are happy to also announce Jaysen became the first Mauritian to summit Everest.

26th May 10:45 Update
Thanks to Stu for his all night stint in keep you all informed, he’s gone home for some shut eye time. Congratulations to the team and we wish them a safe journey down. Zac, Greg and Pasang are bringing up the rear but they are now safely on the NE Ridge below the first step whilst everyone else has at least reached high camp at 8300m. Mingma with Andrew, Ben, Stephen and Geordie have started their descent to 7800m where they will spend the night along with Salam. Nick is at the North Col.

A new British Record was set by Geordie as he became the youngest Brit to complete the true Seven Summits (including Carstensz Pyramid)

and shortly afterwards George Atkinson (top left of photo) broke the World Record for being the youngest to complete the Seven Summits at the age of 16yrs 362 days, an incrediable achievement. Adventure Peaks is very pleased to have helped him on his last five summits! It is important to approach such a challenge in a sensible manner and gain relevant experience and technical capability….George Atkinson did both through our courses, additional expeditions and his personal and family input, hopefully his Dad won’t hang up his boots now!!!! George Atkinson also became the youngest Brit to summit Everest, giving Adventure Peaks the satisfaction of having three times put the youngest British Climber on the Summit. (Jake Meyer in  2005 aged 21, Rob Gauntlet and James Hopper  in 2006 aged 19). His Seven summits world record adds to our 2007 speed record when Ian McKeever was guided to the top of the seven by Adventure Peaks in 156 days.

Top of the world: George Atkinson became the youngest Briton to scale Mount Everest

George Atkinson during his succesful world record for the youngest person to complete the Seven summits

Dave Pritt

  • People summiting as follow:
  • AP Client Sherpa Approx time
  • Geordie S Dorjee 06.30
  • Jaysen A Ang Phurba 06.40
  • Chris S Mingma Gybu 06.45
  • Mark W KB 07.30
  • Stephen G 08.15
  • Andrew R Nurbu Bhode 08.30
  • Ben T Dawa Dorjee 08.30
  • George Atkinson and Sonam Dorjee 08.45
  • Greg H Wangchu 09.45
  • Zac P 09.45

A total of 18

Best wishes (Bhola and Simon)

26th May 08:34 Update from ABC & Chris.

Clients have started arriving at Camp 3 so far Chris, Geordie, Ben, Jaysen, Andrew, Mark, Dorjee, Dawa and Ang Phurba are at Camp 3. The back markers are Zac, Greg & Pasang who were at Mushroom Rock (8500m) just before 7am GMT. Everyone is tired and will stop for a drink and some food before carrying on to 7800m. Salam is slowly making his way down to 7800m.

26th May 04:55 (9:40am Nepali time) Update from Zac on the Summit.

Zac , Greg & Pasang have reached the top and are the last of our team reach the summit. 8 Clients 2 Leaders and 8 Sherpas summited this morning. Once they have finished taking their summit photos they will join the rest of the team in descending back down to Camp 3 and Camp 2. A big well done to all of the team and their efforts and support on the mountain and a big thank you to the sherpa staff for making this possible. The next update will be when all the team are back down at Camp 3, so for those friends and family who have been up all night it’s time to get a few hours sleep.

26th May 03:30 (8:15am Nepali time) Update from Ganu at BC.

George and Stephen have reached the summit along with Sonam. Zac, Greg and Ang Phurba are almost at the top of the North Face approaching the final summit ridge. So within the next half hour we should have the final team members on the summit.

26th May 02:45 (7:30am Nepali time) Update from Heather at ABC.

Mark reached the summit at 7am Nepali time along with Mingma sherpa and Ben & Andrew have just reached the summit with KB and Dawa. George Atkinson and sonam are 5 minutes away from the summit and well on his way to setting a new world record for the youngest person to climb the true Seven Summits at 16years and 361 days. So two records in less than one hour not bad for Geordie and George Atkinson.

Stephen and Pasang are about half an hour away. Zac, Greg and Ang Phurba are about an hour away from the top.

Nick is on his way down to Camp 2 and Salam has arrived at Camp 3.

26th May 02:00 (6:45am Nepali time) Chris called in from the summit of Everest.

Chris, Geordie & Jaysen have reached the top of the world. Geordie has set a new British record by becoming the youngest British male to climb the true Seven Summits including Carstensz Pyramid, so extra well done to Geordie. Andrew and Ben are not far behind but are still to top out from the North Face on to the final summit approach. Chris reported that the weather is good and the guys are taking their summit photos and taking in the views. They will soon begin their descent back down the Northeast Ridge.

The rest of the team members are still making their way up.

26th May 01:16 (6:00am Nepali time) I have just spoken to Simon at ABC who has been able to provide a bit more information on the teams progress.

They believe that Chris, Geordie, Andrew, Jaysen & Ben along with Dorjee and Ang Phurbar sherpa are very close to reaching the summit. They have not had recent radio contact with George Atkinson, Stephen, Mark and the other sherpas, but we are sure they are not far behind the group at the front.

Salam turned around with Mingma sherpa at 5.30am Nepali time having reached 8500m. Well done on a good effort. They are now on their way down to Camp 3 at 8300m.

When ABC next speak to Nick he will be advised to drop down to ABC if possible or at least Camp 2 today.

26th May 00:43 (5:30am Nepali time)Zac called in from the top of the 2nd Step with the latest update.

Greg is still on his way up the second step after having had a rest and changing over oxygen he is with Pasang sherpa. The rest of the team ahead of Zac are on the third step and above on the snow slope, which he said can be clearly seen from the top of the second step. The front markers are now breaking off the snow slope onto the final rock section on the North Face below the final summit approach. So all being well within the next hour or so I would expect our first summits to start happening.

There is a bit of a breeze but the sun is up and weather is still good.

25th May 23:47 Zac called in from the bottom of the 2nd Step with the latest update.

The majority of the team are now above the second step and en route to the 3rd Step. at this stage nobody is above the 3rd step. Salam has dropped back quite a bit with Mingma sherpa and has now been asked to descend. Greg is 50m behind Zac, but still going fine. It just getting light now for the team at 4:30am so torches are no longer needed, the adrenalin will start to kick in now that daylight has arrived and just a few more hours to the top.

25th May 21:19: Zac called in from the Northeast Ridge with an update on the teams progress. All is going to plan so far. It’s been quite warm considering how high they are, only requiring light weight gloves at the moment.

Geordie and Dorjee are at the 2nd Step, Jaysen has just reached the top of the 1st Step. The majority of the team are at/on the 1st step. Zac is with Greg at the start of the Northeast ridge and Salam is about 300m back from the ridge with Mingma sherpa.

25th May 18:39: All the members at the top camp except Nick have left for their summit bid. Nick was still recovering from the journey up to 8300m. He will leave at first light (about 4.30am) and ascend to the ridge but no longer has intentions of reaching the summit. Zac and the group bringing up the rear are about a third of the way up the exit gullies heading to the Northeast Ridge. At this stage it’s believed none of the team have reached the ridge yet but the weather is good and virtually no wind for now.

25th May 15:29: The first members of the team will be leaving for their summit bid in 45 minutes. The team are planning to stagger as follows:

9pm – Geordie, Salam, Stephen, Nick accompanied by Dorjee, Mingma & Nuba shepars

9.30pm – Greg, Jaysen, Mark,

accompanied by Ang, Mingma shepars
10.00pm – Andrew & Ben, accompanied by Pasang, KB & Dawa
10.30pm – George & Sonam, Chris & Zac

The weather is looking good winds are low, temperature estimated at a tropical -20C (normally colder), there is a chance of some snow but it’s not believed to be too much to have any major impact on the summit attempt.

25th May 15:02: Zac phoned in to let us know that the majority of the team have now reached the top camp at 8300m. There has been some snow today but it has now stopped and the weather is looking good for tonight’s summit bid. Zac will call again around 8pm Nepali time for the weather update so I will squeeze as much info out of him then before they head up for the summit. Heather is now back down at ABC with Simon, both of them will be assisting Bhola with the radio comms through the night.

24th May 16:55: Zac phoned in to let us know that the majority of the team are now settled in at camp 2. Simon is at ABC having got to an hour after the North Col and has decided to not progess any more, congraluations to Simon getting that far. Heather is staying another night at the North Col is going to aim for the personal height best.  The team are all doing well and have split themselves into two groups for the summit push, the first group will leave at 9.30pm and the second at 10.30pm.

23rd May 17:15pm: The team have now arrived at the North Col and are staying the night there, and looking to go up to 7800m tomorrow.  The team are feeling strong and healthy and with a good weather forecast on the 26th things are looking good of them.

22nd May 16:22pm: We have just heard from Zac and the team, they will be pushing for the North Col 7.30am tomorrow morning and spending the night there.  All the team are doing well and are about to get a good nights sleep in before heading up the North Col.  Reports from teams coming down from the summit are saying that the route is in good condition.

21st May Lastest new from the Everest Team is that they are in ABC for today and tomorrow resting and getting ready to leave for the North Col on 23rd.  They have confirmed that the summit attempt will be on the 26th May.  The weather is looking good for them and the team are feeling strong. There was someone who para-glided off the top this morning having summited from the South which provided some entertainment for them.

20th May Zac called in today all the team are now at ABC. They are now looking at the 25th May for their summit attempt, so plan to head back up to the North Col on the 22nd. The rope fixing was completed yesterday and the rumors around ABC are that 15 people reached the top today. There are apparently 100 people hoping to summit tonight which is going to make it a very congested on the first and second steps. All the AP team wish them luck and will be keeping you updated on their progress each day on the build up to summit night.

18th May Zac called in today the team are planning to head up to ABC on the 20th. Ben has decided to head up a day early to allow himself an extra days rest at ABC. The rope fixing team have now headed up to ABC to fix the final summit ridge, which they hope to have completed by around the 21st May. The weather has been very fickle on the North side this year, which has been testing for the team, especially when South side teams have been reaching the top. Due to the wind direction the North teams are exposed to the elements across the whole summit ridge, whereas the South side teams receive a substantial amount of shelter from the mountain itself, especially in the dark hours of summit morning.

15th May Zac called in today all the team are still waiting at BC. They are keeping themselves occupied by going out for walks along the frozen river, while waiting for the weather to come good. The rope fixing team will not be heading up to ABC until 18th May, which has disappointed quite a few teams who had already headed up to ABC in anticipation of the fixing being completed for the 17th. The team are now currently focusing on the 25th or 26th for their summit day.

10th May Zac called in today all the team have made their final acclimatization preparations, so now need to rest at base camp and wait for any sign of a weather window. Andrew, Ben, George Atkinson, Geordie & Zac reached 7500m. Simon, Greg, Jaysen & Chris reached 7400m. Heather, Mark, & Nick reached 7300m. Stephen & Salam reached 7100m but had to turn back because of bad weather. The rope fixing team have still to complete the summit day fixing before teams will start to make their attempts.

5th May Graham emailed in today. The team have arrived safely back in Kathmandu after visiting Lhasa. They will spend today and tomorrow sightseeing and relaxing in Kathmandu before departing for the UK on the 7th.

3rd May Zac called in today, the majority of the team arrived back at ABC yesterday. Heather and Nick stayed at intermediate camp last night and arrived into ABC today. Chris, Stephen & Salam had an extra day at BC and are trekking up today. Ten of the team will head up to the North Col tomorrow and push up to 7500m the day after. The rest of the team will have a rest day before heading up to the North Col.

30th Apr Zac emailed in today and attached the photo of the team above:

Everyone is now back at BC, Heather reached the North Col. Nick is now feeling much better after a bout of sickness. The team are planning a night walk along the frozen river with masks, goggles and head torches, to give people a feel for summit night.

The North Col team plan to depart for Lhasa on the 2nd May.

28th Apr Zac emailed last night to update on the teams progress. The following people made it to the North Col: Geordie, George Atkinson, Stephen, Ben, Andrew, Garry, Chris & Zac. Jaysen, Greg, Simon & Salam stopped 20m short at the last ladder. Mark got to 6850m before turning round. Ross got to 6800m.

Nick has had sickness and has decided to head down to BC to recover. Heather has a very burnt face (Stu says “Heather you should know better!”) but is planning to head up to the Col tomorrow depending on the weather. There has been a lot of snow, ABC has had a bout 9 inches, which sadly means that Lhakpa Ri is not safe to climb.

Graham and David are now at Intermediate camp and will arrive at ABC tomorrow.

27th Apr Graham called in this morning. There has been a huge amount of snow in the Everest region right down to base camp. Some of the Everest team and Garry reached the North Col yesterday. We’ll have a better idea tomorrow of who got where. Other members of the team will tray again tomorrow. Graham and David will head up to Intermediate camp tomorrow and reach ABC the day after.

20th Apr Victor has emailed in today from BC, here is what he has to say :-

“This is Victor Delstanche reporting from Everest north base camp at 5200m. All the team are acclimatising well. Fitness levels are improving as are beards.

We are sustained by a good diet of tasty food and healthy dose of accumulated wit and wisdom to pass the quiet hours.

Everest has shown herself in all her glory. We can see the top of the mountain and the route to the summit along the north east ridge and through binoculars the 3 steps.

Today we received the blessings of the monks from Rongbuk Monastery- a moving ceremony. We look forward to pushing up to the higher camps. We all appreciate our “normal” lives. As for me I look forward to a beer, a warm bed. ”

18th Apr The Everest team had their Puja today which ended with the usual grand finale of throwing flour at each other. They have been to 5500m so far with a couple more acclimatization walks planned before heading up to intermediate camp. The Lhakpa Ri team arrived into base camp on Sunday and are in fine fettle.

Graham had his last jab today and will leave Kathmandu for base camp on Wednesday.

15th Apr The Lhakpa Ri & North Col team have now traveled to Tingri with a member of the sherpa team. Unfortunately Graham was bitten, not severely, by a dog in Nylam yesterday and had to travel back to Kathmandu to get his top up jabs. All being well he will rejoin the team at BC or ABC ready for the journey to Lhasa.

The Everest team have now arrived at BC after spending last night in Zhang Mu. All are doing well. Zac & Chris will also look after the Lhakpa Ri team when they arrive in BC in a couple of days.

13th Apr The Lhakpa Ri & North Col team are now in Nylam in Tibet. They have had their first acclimatization walk up to 4000m and will aim to go to 4500m tomorrow. They will travel to Tingri on the 15th. All the team are well and enjoying their experiences in Tibet.

The Everest team are back in Nepal and having a rest day today. All the final preparations are now complete. They will be crossing the border tomorrow and should arrive at Everest base camp the day after.

11th Apr The Lhakpa Ri & North Col team have now all arrived safely in Kathmandu. They are processing their Tibetan visas today and sightseeing around Kathmandu and will then cross the border on Tuesday.

The Everest summit team will arrive back in Lukla today after having spent some time at just over 5000m.

7th Apr The team have now trekked to pangboche.

5th Apr The Everest team have now all arrived in Nam che after a bumpy ride into Lukla yesterday. The team plan to trek up to Ama Dablam BC and spend two days there before heading back down to Kathmandu.

4th Apr The Everest summit team all arrived safely in Kathmandu yesterday and are in good spirits. If the weather is good then they will fly to Lukla to start their acclimitasation trek to Ama Dablam base camp today.

31st Mar The Everest team will depart for Kathmandu on the 2nd of April. The Lhakpa Ri team will depart for Kathmandu on the 8th April.

Zac Poulton

About Zac Poulton

Zac Poulton is an experienced mountain instructor and expedition guide. He holds the MIC, the highest mountaineering qualification in the UK and is a full member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors , theMIC.org, the Alpine Club and has a background in Sport & Exercise Science. In 2011 he led an expedition to the North Ridge of Everest which put 18 climbers including himself, on the summit. Among his clients was 16 year old George Atkinson, the youngest Britain to summit and the youngest person in the world to complete the 7 Summits. Zac has safely led a total of 27 people above 8000m. Other notable ascents have included the 11th British & 1st Australian ascent of Baruntse (7201m), 2nd British ascent of Himlung Himal (7126m), 100% success leading on Cho Oyu and a solo ascent of Ama Dablam.

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