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Everest North Ridge 8th April 2019

By May 27, 2019Current Trips
The team

Everest North Ridge

Departs: 8th April 2019

Leader: Di Gilbert

27th May
The team are now back in base camp where they’ll spend a couple of days before departing for Lhasa on 29th.


24th May
Success for the Everest team. Di called at 18:15hrs this evening from the North Col to update us on the team’s progress. Teams on the mountain have been experiencing signal problems with Satellite phones at Camp 2 & 3, which explains the comms silence over the last couple of days.

Georgios reached the summit yesterday with Dawa climbing directly from 7800m and missing out the top camp. They are now back at ABC. The rest of the team moved up to the top camp on the 23rd May and set out for their summit bid last night at 20:30hrs local time. With a monumental effort Nick reached 8500m and decided to head down with Persemba. They are now at ABC. Di, Kirsty, Paula and the rest of the Sherpas pushed on up reaching the summit at 05:00hrs this morning. After a very long descent they are now at the North Col tired, but ecstatic. They will descend to ABC tomorrow and back to BC the day after that. A big well done to all from the AP team in very challenging conditions.


21st May 
The team left ABC and have arrived at the North Col. Tomorrow they will push up to around 7800m.


11th May

The weather gods looked down on us favourably yesterday as we made the journey to the North Col.  Not too hot but not too cold, and no wind. Having not been able to touch the North Col previously, due to various reasons, we all knew it was going to be a hard day.  It didn’t disappoint and it was nice to be on some climbing terrain on the fixed ropes – no ladders this season.

North col is a beautiful place, far above ABC at about 7200m according to Nick’s altimeter.  The Sherpas had set up 4 tents for us and we were all safety tucked up in our sleeping bags by about 1500. Phurba, Pemba and Persemba didn’t want to miss out on the fun so they remained high with us.  Dawa, Nurbu and Phuringee preferred the load drop and return to ABC.

Depending on who you speak to, it was either windy or not through the night. Nobody slept much and whenever there was a windy gust through camp, all the ice particles from the tent fell onto your face to make sure anybody who was sleeping got woken up.

Everyone just grazed on food and sipped on liquid. Lethargy at 7200m takes on a completely new meaning.

This morning some of the team ventured (not very far) above camp – just too windy and cold before the team decided to bail back down to ABC. This was a good move since no sooner were we all in ABC the clouds rolled in, the wind picked up and it started snowing.

As I type this I am surrounded by snoring tents – let’s keep names out of it.  Tomorrow we eject back down to base camp for Amoo’s amazing cooking, base camp antics and fat air.  We will not be returning until the fixing team have reappeared – they are probably on a beach somewhere now since for the past 2 days despite lots of team Sherpa activity they are still nowhere to be seen.

Di


9th May

If it weren’t for my diary I wouldn’t have a clue what day of the week it was.

The general theme for the past x days has been wind.  Wind makes everything much harder, much colder and uses up far too much energy that could be essential in later days and weeks.  I feel like I am constantly saying to team members that getting to North Col isn’t the objective – the summit is.

Our weather forecasts have been predicting strong winds in the high elevations for weeks now, first with cyclone Fani and subsequently the jet stream and more importantly the jet streak. The fixed ropes are still only as high as 7200m and the team are nowhere to be seen.  It’s just a weird season.

At the start of the week (Monday) all 6 Sherpa’s returned to ABC to check everything was still ok back down at camp. Apart from the loo tents being flattened (recurring theme this year not only with our loo tents but with every other teams), all mountain tents, dining tents and possessions were still where they should be.

On Tuesday we really didn’t have an option not to move for fear of losing all acclimatisation that we had gained. All very apprehensive we set off for the loooong walk from base camp to ABC in a day. The saving grace was that for once it wasn’t a storm force wind and we all made it to camp in various states.  As team members were battling their way getting to ABC, team Sherpa put in another 6 loads to north col.

It was very windy during the evening and nobody slept that night at ABC – team members and Sherpas alike.  The wind was unrelenting all day, conversation was practically nonexistent since you couldn’t hear and you took you life into your hands when venturing to the loo.

There is light at the end of the tunnel with the winds starting to drop so we have decided to have one more rest day at ABC.  Phuringee and Nurbu have done one more load to north col and Di made a trip up to crampon point since the thought of more horizontal time was too much to cope with.

Walking through [Advanced Base] camp is a sad event at the moment – most people have ejected down to base camp or lower, tents are flattened or collapsed and rubbish flies in the wind.  No longer do we hear the boom boom music and the cheery welcomes as we walk through various camps – it’s like a deserted village.

I assume that base camp will be pumping by now.

This will change very soon as the winds drops and the fixing team reappear.

We plan to head to north col for the next couple of nights where we will be lying horizontal, trying to sleep, and trying to get any calories inside us.


6th May

Di emailed to say that after their long respite at base camp the team are heading back up to ABC tomorrow. The weather has been very fickle with significant amounts of snow and then high winds, but despite this the team have been keeping themselves busy and taking in the occasional yomp to keep active.


27th April

Di called this afternoon to say they have had some very strong winds last night which caused damage to the mess tent. Everyone is fine, but Kirsty, Nick & Paula have decided to head back down to base camp to get some proper rest while the rope fixing is still taking place up to the North Col. Di is staying up with the rugby team to assist with the team and help get everything set up.


26th April

Di called in this morning to say all is well with them at ABC, they are having a proper rest day today so they’re staying out of the sun and trying to eat and rest. Carrie and the rugby team are on their way up to ABC now, so Di is expecting them to arrive tomorrow afternoon.


25th April

Advanced Base Camp day 3. It should be getting easier but it’s not!

We were the first little group of Westerners here but the ABC is getting busier and busier with the arrival of more climbers.  There was lots of heavy breathing behind my tent as climbers passed by to their camp. I felt their pain. There is lots of activity as the Sherpas set up more and more tents. A massive shout out to the Sherpas, these guys make it all happen for us and they work so hard.

Yesterday, we set out after breakfast to look for a pitch for the highest ever rugby game (LMAX Exchange Everest Rugby Challenge). Roped up and meandering through the crevasses was stunning but so so hot. We all felt like we were being burned to a crisp. We finally found a suitable site but it’s not flat so they’ll have to make sure they change ends! Di marked out the pitch and we trudged back through peaked crevasses back to camp exhausted and hot.

Today, we walked up to crampon point below the route up to the North Col. We estimated it to be about 6700metres. We got a good look at the route up and the good news is the fixing team are on it. We hope they may have fixed the route in a day or so. The route up to the North Col is absolutely stunning and a little daunting. We had a little practice using a our jumars this morning in camp to ensure we can remember what to do. Picture attached with our poo tent in too.

Kirsty


23rd April

I have hijacked the blog from our formidable leader Di didi. We left the luxury of base camp for interim camp on the 21st.  Di came a little later after doing final negotiations with the Tibetan Yak handlers but to be fair the Yak handlers didn’t have a chance and for once there was very little negotiation. What a star!

The walk to interim felt long and we all felt the altitude. The route was straight forward but we all finally felt like we are on this magnificent mountain.

We arrived at camp in what can only be described as bleak, cold and miserable weather. But as always the Sherpa team had made it as comfortable as possible.

After a long night we had an early start as the Yak handlers needed our big bags. We were told 7am for bags. However, the Yak handlers were a bit early but Di was quick to point out 7am means 7am. They quickly backed off.

We set off for advanced base camp 6500 metres approximately. It felt like a very long walk which got harder and harder with each step and the lack of oxygen. Nick was thinking what am I doing here. Paula was thinking when will I eat next and I wasn’t thinking. We arrived almost together at camp which never looked so good. With less than half of the available oxygen to breathe we were breathing heavily.

After our first night in our new home and a few headaches and restless sleep we are resting today.

We can see the route up to the North Col but right now it’s a struggle to walk to the wee tent. Hmm!!

Kirsty


20th April

Near disaster in the dining tent last night when the Sherpas got a bit overly excited pouring the Cognac over the sizzlers and then lighting a match.  Not a normal hazard when mountaineering but ….

We asked each team member what their most prized possession is at this moment in time:

Kirsty – her phone which has one very special photo of her family on it.

Paula – the Adventure Peaks news updates since she knows her family are reading and knows she is well.

Nick – a hard decision between the Daddies brown sauce or his phone with the family on it.  In Nick’s words – like Brexit, 51/49% for the phone.

Di – a stupid bit of orange string around her neck that was blessed in Lhasa from the Llama.

The LMAX rugby team arrived in camp in good spirits so nice to see some friendly faces.

Brace yourself but tomorrow we are starting our journey upstairs.  We say goodbye to luxury and are looking forward to reducing the every expanding waist line and popping headache pills.  To be a high altitude mountaineer you have to be comfortable in suffering.  Our suffering starts tomorrow.

Next update from ABC in a few days.


19th April

Last night’s evening entertainment – Guardians of the Galaxy – big thumbs up.

It was so quiet last night that you could hear your neighbour snoring.  We awoke to a beautiful morning in CBC. No wind and no clouds.

After breakfast the big job was getting loads weighed with the yak men.  It’s funny how a 30kg load suddenly becomes 35kg.  Instead of using primitive methods we sourced the electric scales so no underhand tactics were used.  In the end everybody seemed happy with the 20 yaks and their 800kg loads.

Nick, Paula and Kirsty continued with their acclimatisation walks whilst Di and Phurba dealt with the loads.  After this, Phuruzee did his best trying to not kill himself by setting up the base camp radio.

Phursemba, Norbu, Dawa and Pemba have now moved to intermediate camp before continuing onto ‘upstairs’ – the cool term for ABC.

It’s going to be a big day tomorrow since the LMAX rugby teams arrive so Team Summit have all agreed to be team host for the day.  This has nothing to do with the fact that it’s 28 new people to meet.

Far more important is that we are no more stinky mares – all very relative but having not had a hot shower for over a week the feeling is truely fantastic. With the sun out there has been a line of people waiting for their bag of hot water. Wet wipes are great but they have their limits.


18th April

Good news – We made the correct movie choice last night – a bit of Mission Impossible which got a big thumbs up from the Sherpas.

When we retired to our individual palaces it was full on blizzard conditions. We are learning that Di and Kirsty can sleep through a storm whilst Nick and Paula can’t.  In fact the first sign for Di that it was windy during the night was in the morning when the first casualty of the trip was evident.  Thankfully it was just the toilet tent which had blown over.

Last night was by far the coldest night so far with wet wipes, water and so on freezing, but once the sun comes up things start to thaw out. After breakie it was time for our Puja.  However since it was still blowing a hoolie we had it in our store tent. Stu says it’s the first time he’s known an indoor Puja so it must have been windy!  After numerous offerings to the big man upstairs a quick dash outside for more offerings before getting blown back inside for more offerings.  Offerings generally consist of chocolate, rice whisky, beer, coke and more beer.  You get the drift.

CBC is a bustling hive this morning with lots of yaks arriving to start the moves up to ABC.  With our Puja done this morning our Sherpas are busy getting themselves ready for the long march to ABC which will take place tomorrow for them. They will do this in one push whilst the mortals in the team will take 2 days.

The team are now sorting their personal equipment and high mountain food ready for the move to intermediate camp and then onto ABC. After lunch we did our radio checks and Kirsty and Paula checked the high altitude chambers are working.

It’s still blowing hard in camp and although it’s like standing on the Cairngorm Plateau it does mask the various boom booms coming from various team tents. We’re British so that obviously wouldn’t be happening from our tents :)

There is no electricity in camp today having been damaged by the wind which is causing much distress since this might curb this evenings entertainment. Oh, the trials of CBC life.


17th April

We made a poor movie choice last night – Fight Club.  Not quite sure what the Sherpas made of it. We have said from now on only family fun ones to be shown!

It snowed last night at CBC, but not to be deterred we went for an acclimatisation walk up to 5700m this morning.  We managed to get up and down before the clouds rolled in thankfully.

Everyone is doing well. There have been more people trickling into base camp today and it sounds as if the route to ABC is getting established.


16th April 

Yesterday the team left New Tingri pretty early so that the CTMA guys could get back to Lhasa the same day.  A lovely drive over a high pass at c.5200m for some breathtaking views of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. We arrived to Chinese Bass Camp to be greeted by our Sherpa team. We spent most of the day just pottering around, mainly working out how the telly works with hard drive ready for the evenings movie.  Our conclusion of day one is that we have far too much food to eat and far too much movies to watch.

Chinese base camp is pretty quiet to be honest but as the days pass more climbers will start to trickle in.

Today (Tuesday) is our first whole day in CBC. The weather pattern is generally nice, clear and windless in the morning which gradually mings out by 11am. Nick, Kirsty and Paula went for a morning stroll down to the caves whilst Di and Phurba start to get wheels moving for the logistics.

Mixed comments about ABC – some say lots snow others say no snow. One thing for sure, Everest certainly looks white. No news of the fixing team yet.

For an expedition of this size there is loads to do so in the afternoon we sorted out the high mountain food – trying to work out how much you think you will eat and how much you actually eat is one of the biggest challenges. We plan to be at CBC for a few days now – gently getting our bodies used to the higher altitude – base camp is at 5200m.

Our Puja will be held on the 18th and the following day some of our Sherpas will start to move up the mountain and start preparing our Advanced Base Camp. In the meantime we will do our best to work our way through the food and movies.

We are all doing well :)


12th April 

Despite numerous rumours about there being no access to Tibet and banned operators, here we are starting our journey through Tibet – congratulations to Adventure Peaks on their 18th Everest Expedition via Tibet and the North side of Everest.  Today is day one of our journey towards base camp leaving Lhasa (3,600m) for Gyantse, our overnight stay at 3950m.  We took the old road to gain valuable acclimatisation as this takes you over several of Tibet’s high passes at around 5000m. The Kampala La gave us beautiful views of the turquoise lake Yamdrok Tso, one of the three holy lakes in Tibet. Karo La was our high point of the day at 5010m before dropping down to Gyantse (3900m) for our overnight stay. Despite the 7 hour journey we have still been able do some short acclimatisation walks to stretch our legs. Tomorrow we head to Xigatse, the second most important city in Tibet.


11th April

It’s the girls flying the flag today – Paula, Kirsty and Di started the day with a mooch around the very famous Potala Palace.  Without doubt the hardest part of the day was walking up the bazillion steps to get into it – bit pathetic really since we are here in an attempt to climb Everest.  It’s not the most relaxing experience being squashed with lots of other tourists in what felt a bit like, getting in and getting out as fast as possible, but it is brilliant to see it first hand.  After this we headed to the Sera Monastery to watch the Buddhists debate and see lots more sculptures and statues. An overload of culture which probably isn’t a bad thing as we prepare for our journey tomorrow to Gyantse.


10th April – The great news is that Nick, Kirsty, Paula and Di have made it to Lhasa – with all their bags. It was raining cats and dogs in Beijing, grim in Kathmandu and toasty warm in Chengdu. The temperature in Lhasa is pleasant and being nearly 3600m in altitude everyone is sucking air. Everyone is slightly jet lagged and are relaxing now ready for a day of power sightseeing tomorrow.


9th April – Di sent a quick email to say the team had successfully arrived into Chengdu. They have done a little bit of sightseeing and will be flying to Lhasa in the morning.

Di Gilbert

About Di Gilbert

Di Gilbert works full time as an Independent Mountaineering Instructor, based in the Cairngorm National Park. She has never had a proper job and it is unlikely that this will change now. Di has stood on the bottom of the world without falling off, she has stood on top of the world without suffering from vertigo, she has climbed the world's 7 summits and completed all 282 Munros.

3 Comments

  • Joan GIlbert-Stevens says:

    Now that you are heading up the mountain just to let you all know everyone at home will be thinking about you all – have a great trip and hope the headaches don’t get much worse. Safe Travelling

  • Beth says:

    Congrats to all. Big effort with great success. Eat, drink and be very merry. Can’t wait to chat Kirsty x

  • Joan gilbert stevens says:

    Words cannot describe how pleased we all are to hear about summit success. Well done and safe trip home

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