Mount Everest 2022
Leader: Stu Peacock
Four of our team are raising money for the tri4life charity, please see the details here
17th May The team have arrived back in Kathmandu and are looking forward to showers and celebrations
The team have made their way back to Lukla, and hopefully today they will get to Kathmandu. We have managed to get some amazing summit pictures from the team and over the next few days we will begin to tell their own accounts of summit night. Watch this space!
After their successful summit yesterday a very happy team have returned today to camp 2. It has been another hot day for them! Tomorrow they will head to Base Camp.
12th may 08:50 (UK time)
CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR SUMMIT TEAM. I have just spoken with Stu on his descent at the South Col camp, where the team will rest tonight. In the early hours of this morning 12th May our team stood on the summit of Mount Everest!
Expedition Leader Stu Peacock
Team members: Liam Hanlon, Philip Walton, Stephen Hayes, Anna Charlotte Perrson
And our fantastic sherpa team: Phurba Wangchhu, Norbu Sherpa,Fu Rinzee Sherpa, Pem Gelze Sherpa,Bir bahadur Tamang (Bire), Phursemba Sherpa
What an amazing effort from the entire team, rest up and we will get a full account of their journey in the coming days.
12th May 04:05 (UK time)
The tracker is showing on the summit, good going! It has been very cold and we have had limited comms, more information in the morning when the team is back down.
11th May 17:00hrs (UK time)
Stu has messaged to say the team have set off for their summit bid! We have sent everyones best wishes to the team.
They will head up by the balcony to the South Summit at about 8690m. From there the next landmark is the Hillary Step before finally pushing up the snow slope to the Summit.
We will try to put any updates on through the night as they come in. Please remember that the communications are all battery based and it can be a struggle to keep everything warm and working, please dont panic if the tracker stops.
11th May 1100am
Stu just phoned. Today the team have moved up to Camp 4 at the South Col (around 8000m) which took just over 5 hours. They are very pleased with their progress. The team will depart for the summit later this evening, but for now they will rest and try to eat and drink as much as possible ready for their journey!
The team have moved up to Camp 3 around 7300m and are very happy with their progress. The stoves are on, and they will spend the rest of today fueling themselves for the journey to camp 4 tomorrow.
Yesterday the team moved up to camp 2 and today they will rest there to prepare themselves for the summit push ahead.
The team have moved up to Camp 1 and tomorrow they will head for camp 2
6th of May
Everything is checked, everything is packed, the team are all set and ready to go! Gyanu is cooking an early breakfast for the team at 2.00am and they will then head back up through the Khumbu ice fall and retrace their steps to camp 1. Onward to camp 2 the following day, the team will then be in position, ready to make their summit attempt when the opportunity presents itself. This will be based on the weather and the team will hold out at Camp 2 until the forecast is favourable.
2nd of May
The team have now spent a night at camp 3 and have today arrived back into BC for a well deserved rest whilst they wait for the rope fixing team to complete the difficult task of getting the route open to the summit. For the team, the time now spent in BC is important to regain strength in readiness for their summit bid when the weather and movement of the jet stream allows. The Sherpa team will continue to ferry oxygen and other supplies up to the high camps. We feel it is important to have spent the night at camp 3. It provides vital acclimatisation but more so a strong psychological gain having climbed the steep Lhotse face, it’s in the bag and firmly in each team member’s head that this difficult stage has been done. When it comes to the final stage of the summit bid the team will feel much better.
The team are currently at Camp 2 (6540m) on their second rotation of acclimatisation, tomorrow they plan to climb up to Camp 3 at over 7300m on the Lhotse Face. This will be their final climb before returning to BC to rest and recouperate in readiness for their summit bid. Life at Camp 2 has been exceptionally hot, hard to believe considering their altitude but the sun reflects on the snow to create intense heat in this confined valley.
The team arrived back down at base camp on the 22nd April, having spent one night at camp 1 and two nights at camp 2 (6540m). On the 21st we pushed up to the start of the Lhotse face at 6800m. This was the same day that the rope fixing team began fixing the route to camp 3. Today the Sherpa team moved more equipment and oxygen to camp 2 as well as secure places for tents at camp 3.
After a long day I am pleased to report the team have made it to Camp 1 (6,000m/19,685ft). at the top of the Khumbu Icefall. We are one of the first teams to reach camp 1. It is this day that most people recognise from pictures of Everest; climbers teetering their way across crevasses on ladders and up steep imposing blocks of ice (seracs). Being acclimatising and being able to move quickly and smoothly is vital, so our strategy of pre acclimatising on Lobuche has worked well.
In the meantime, our Sherpa team have been working ahead of the group to establish Camp 2 (6400m) in readiness for the team’s arrival tomorrow. Camp 2 is almost a mirror of BC and will become the main base to attack the Lhotse face and then the summit.
To date brilliant progress. Photos will be uploaded when the team return to BC in a few days time.
17th April Easter Sunday
It’s Easter Sunday, so we’re opening the Cadburys cream eggs and indulging in a bit of chocolate.
Happy Easter to all back home.
The Sherpas made another carry to camp 2 during the early hours. We will all have a rest day tomorrow and then make our way to camp 1 on the 19th.
Yesterday the Sherpas made their first carry through the ice fall and the team minus A-C (A-C wasn’t feeling her best, so decided to miss out and rest instead) aimed to touch camp 1 and come back down. Well we all found out that the route through the icefall this year is very long, with lots of ups and downs and many many zig zags. So much so that the Sherpas had the stash about 1 hour from camp 2 and the rest of us took 6 hours to make it to 5987m. It was a long day for all, but it was great to see what obstacles confront us in the icefall and we’re certainly glad of the rest day today.
Depending on the weather our next plan is to move to camp 1 on the 19th. By then the Sherpas will have fixed most of camp 2, enough for us to stay there for a few days.
Our team has had the Puja Ceremony at base camp to bless the expedition, an essential part of any Everest expedition. Tomorrow we plan to head up through the Khumbu ice fall to touch Camp 1 before returning to BC.
Today the team made its first journey into the famous Khumbu icefall up to 5500m. No ladders were encountered on this outing, but we expect to be challenged higher up. The team were able to get plenty of practice moving on fixed lines.
We were back in time for another cracking lunch prepared by Gyanu.
The route to camp 2 has now been fixed, so once we’ve had our puja on Thursday, the Sherpas will push ahead setting up camps 1 & 2.
The team is making excellent progress and is currently ahead of schedule, they will now aim to touch camp 1 on Friday before returning to base camp the same day.
The camps they will eventually climb through are:
Camp 1 Top of the Khumbu Icefall (6,000m/19,685ft)
Camp 2 Advanced Base Camp (6400m /21,000ft)
Camp 3 Halfway up Lhotse Face (7300-7500m/24,500ft)
Camp 4 South Col (7,900m/26,000ft)
The team visited the start of the Khumbu icefall in the morning. Sadly John had to be evacuated from base camp due to problems with his vision. This was a great blow to the team and he will be greatly missed by all. I spoke to John this morning and he is OK, the doctors have said his vision will return. Yesterday afternoon the team tested the oxygen system.
Finally the Everest Team have arrived at Base Camp this morning. Despite the cloud we were warmly welcomed by our base camp staff and climbing Sherpa who have been working hard since the 25th March to get things ready.
We’ve had lunch and people are settling into what I can only describe as palatial sleeping quarters, compared to previous Everest expeditions.
All the team are really happy to be here and are very impressed with how hard the staff have worked and the comfort we have for our home for the next few weeks. We have a great setup in terms of sleeping tents and communal mess tent.
It all feels very real especially as the Khumbu ice fall is only a stones throw away from our camp.
We’ve said a fond farewell to our porters who have worked tirelessly to move our equipment to Lobuche high camp and finally to Everest Base Camp.
Now begins some well earned rest, learning some new skills and preparing for the next challenge of tackling the mighty Khumbu ice fall.
Stu has called in this afternoon with a quick update. Today they have walked up to the crampon point at the bottom of the Khumbu ice fall to look up the ice fall, about a half hour walk from their camp. They have also sorted their luxury food (treats) and food for the mountain. Tomorrow they will organise their oxygen and do some skills training on the ice fall.
We’ve arrived at Gorak Shep. Everyone had a great night’s sleep and awoke feeling refreshed and ready for our short stroll to Gorak Shep. We arrived in just under 2 hours and everyone is feeling good from our acclimatisation. Liam celebrated by sharing out some pringles.
We’re all very excited to be trekking to base camp tomorrow.
Congratulations to the team who reached the summit of Lobuche East 6119m in the early hours of this morning. This is an important acclimatisation phase where the team gradually build up their strength for the challenge ahead. it will mean they will arrive into BC fully acclimatised and stronger and quicker for the move through the Khumbu icefall. (Dave Pritt)
Stu wrote: Yesterday we walked from Lobuche village to high camp, a lovely little setting next to a turquoise lake. Our extra Sherpa, Jangmu, met us at high camp.
This morning after a quick breakfast at 2:30am we set off for the summit of Lobuche East. No word of a lie this was the best weather I’ve ever had on a Himalayan climb. No wind and perfect blue skies. We started off on down jackets, but they were soon stashed away. John decided to head back down after 1.5 hours with Jangmu. The rest of the team pushed on through the dark hours and were rewarded with some of the best views the Khumbu has to offer. We reached the summit around 8am. We made it back down to high camp just after 11am and arrived in Lobuche village at 3pm.
Tomorrow we are looking forward to the very short 3 hour walk to Gorak Shep and then the luxuries of base camp on the 10th April.
Another beautiful day in the khumbu today. Days like today are what makes it worth it. This morning we walked up the ridge behind dingboche to 5075m. The vistas were truly breath taking. We also got a great view of our next objective Lobuche East. All the team were very happy with how they performed.
The team have now arrived at Lobuche.
We had brunch at Thukla on the way before the steady pull up to the memorials. It was a very emotional time spent visiting the chortens and reading the plaques of many climbers who lost their lives on Everest. A time when we must all realise the challenges ahead.
From the memorials we made our way along the easier terrain past lobuche bc to lobuche Village. We managed to get views up to high camp before the cloud closed in on lobuche east peak.
This evening we will organise our kit needed for lobuche and what can go to everest base camp. Tomorrow we will leave around 8am from lobuche village for high camp, which all being well will take around 5 hours.
Everyone slept well last night. Sadly the clouds prevented any sunset views on ama dablam. However this morning is a completely different storey. Clear skies and a wonderful view of khantega and Ama dablam looking majestic from Dingboche
The team went up to the Pangboche monastery this morning and got a blessing.
They had great views of Ama Dablam and Cholatse, even Pumori peeked it’s summit into view at one point. We’re now looking forward to lunch at the moonlight Lodge.
Last night the team were treated to a good luck chocolate cake which was delicious! There was also a chance to share stories and the Lodge owner Chime Sherpa’s dad worked at Camp 2 on Everest inthe 1953 Expedition, Today the team have moved up to Pangboche. Some of the team managed to catch the odd glimpse of Everest, but it’s been a cloudy day. The stopped at Phungi Tanga to get a brew and some biscuits before the steep climb up to Tengboche, where the team stopped for Lunch. Now in Pangboche at just over 3800m the evenings will start to feel a little cooler, and I’m sure it will be an early night for the team.
Stu has sent his latest update .We’re now sat having a brew at khumjung. The team first went up to the Tenzing Norgay statue by the everest visitors centre. Sadly its a Saturday, which means it’s closed. After that we headed up to the old air strip and then over to khumjung to visit the soon to be open Sherpa museum which is being funded by Community Action Nepal, which the tri4life team are supporting. After our relaxing drink we’ll head back down to Namche for a lazy afternoon with a possible visit to a bakery. Martin and Liam are keen to sample a pint from the highest Irish pub in the world
The team have arrived in Namche after a nice day on the trail. It’s good to get into that first real day of walking after the flights. Tomorrow is a rest day to aid acclimatisation, I’m sure Stu will take the team on the tour of the best cake shops in Nacmche.
It’s been a busy time for the Everest Summit Team so far. They have completed the permit process in Kathmandu, flown to Lukla and completed the first day of trekking to Phakding. Not much room on the flight to Lukla! Multiple tea stops already and the team sound like they are going to eat their way up the trail, getting lots of Scroll down to the tracking map to see where they have been today.
Our Everest Team departs the UK today, 29th March.
You can follow the updates from the team, and check where they are on their tracker from the 31st of March on this page.