Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam


From £6,695
Altitude 6,856m Grade: 5D

The stunning pyramid of Ama Dablam is regarded as one of the world’s most exquisite and sought after peaks, alongside the infamous Matterhorn and Khan Tengri.

The stunning pyramid of Ama Dablam is regarded as one of the world’s most exquisite and sought after peaks, alongside the infamous Matterhorn and Khan Tengri. The ambitious and experienced mountaineer will find the South West Ridge an acceptable challenge. We take the standard route up Ama Dablam which offers steep snow, ice and rock climbing in exhilarating and exposed situations. Fixed lines will be used in our ascent, to aid speed and efficient movement on this impressive mountain.

Ama Dablam Base Camp (4750m) - Camp 1 (5700m)

This is quite a long walk and may take five to six hours on the first journey. This is likely to reduce considerably with improved acclimatisation. Unusually there is no glacier approach and you can walk in trainers along pleasant grassy ridges that curve around behind the SW ridge. As you gain height, superb views open to the whole of the Western Himalaya, most notably Cho Oyu (8201m), Numbur (6859m) and Taweche (6367m). Just before reaching camp 1 we cross a granite boulder field and scramble easily up some huge boiler plate granite slabs.

Camp 1 (5700m) - Camp 2 (6080m)

Camp 1 is situated at the foot of the SW ridge and so you embark on the climb as soon as you leave camp and clip into the fixed ropes. Initially there is some quite easy traversing of rocky terraces and snowy ledges. Then there are some superb compact granite slabs to cross and these lead into equally enjoyable slabby buttresses to ascend. Just before Camp 2 is reached The Yellow Tower must be climbed/jumared and this provides the technical crux of the whole route. The climbing is extremely enjoyable but it is hard work at this altitude. Three to five hours.

Camp 2 (6080m) - Camp 2.9 (6200m)/ Summit

Most teams these days make their summit bids from camp 2, however there is an option of very limited camping space at the end of Mushroom Ridge, Camp 2.9, which offers an airy launching platform for a shorter summit day. The group will decide whether to use this camp or not. As soon as you leave Camp 2 you start gaining height. It’s hard work but the climbing is good, and the ascent of The Grey Tower provides the next obstacle. Easy snow and ice then leads to the ‘Mushroom Ridge’, the corniced snow crest that links the mixed SW ridge below with the summit snow fields above. Your ‘composure with exposure’ will be tested here! However, the ground is not technically difficult, Scottish grade II, and you will soon reach the broad snow shelves that provide the site of the old Camp 3. As we are now essentially on the West Face the sun does not arrive until around 9.30am, so this can be a cold place until the sun hits. From here it takes around 3-4 hours to reach the summit ascending the fixed ropes up the grade I summit snow fields. There is one short steep section over an icy bulge that provides a welcome contrast in climbing style! The summit of Ama Dablam is a truly outstanding viewpoint. Typical ascent time 7 – 9 hours from camp 2. We would aim to descend as low down the mountain as possible after summiting, ideally camp 1 or if you are going really well, Base Camp!

We have had excellent summit success on all previous expeditions and those wishing to join should be technically proficient and confident to Alpine AD, Scottish grade III and be able to second VS/5.7 on rock.

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Dates & Prices

Show prices in
All prices in Euros are guide rates, not live rates
All prices in US Dollars are guide rates, not live rates

Availability

Dates
Flight Inclusive
AvailabilityDays
With Flight
Price
Land Only
Price
With Flight
Select
7th Oct 2023 - 5th Nov 2023 Guaranteed30 £6,695£7,495 Book Now
4th Nov 2023 - 3rd Dec 2023
£250 Early Booking Discount Next 3 Places
Spaces30 £6,695
£6,445
£7,495
£7,245
Book Now
12th Oct 2024 - 10th Nov 2024
£250 Early Booking Discount
Spaces30 £6,750
£6,500
£7,550
£7,300
Book Now
2nd Nov 2024 - 1st Dec 2024 Spaces30 £6,750£7,550 Book Now

* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.

Extras

Extras can be added per-person when you book onto a date

ItemPriceDays
Everest from the Air £270
Chitwan Safari at Tigerland Resort (+4 days) £525+4 days
Chitwan Safari at Parkland Resort (+4 days) £425+4 days

* A deposit of £200 (or the full extra price, whichever is lower) will be required at checkout for each extra added per-person on this trip

What's Included

  • International flights from London (Flight inclusive package)
  • A British expedition team leader. Small groups may use a local leader.
  • Transfers to and from the in country airport if flights booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the expedition.
  • Food, fuel and cooking equipment whilst on the mountain.
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on a Bed & Breakfast basis.
  • All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb.
  • Medical safety equipment and supplies.
  • Communication equipment (each member on a Grade 3B or above are normally provided with a radio whilst on the mountain and the team is often supported with a Satellite Telephone and e-mail facilities on extended expeditions at Base Camp).
  • 90 - 120 litre kit bag for expedition members for UK based clients. A logoed top will be substituted for all clients residing outside of the UK or repeat customers.
  • 15% off the RRP on clothing and equipment purchases from Adventure Peaks shop

What's Excluded

  • Personal climbing clothes and equipment.
  • Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations.
  • Transfers to and from the in country airport if flights NOT booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Travel to and from UK airport (unless otherwise specified).
  • Drinks and hotel or guest house meals, unless specified.
  • Personal medical supplies and personal use of communication equipment.
  • Excess baggage.
  • Tips for porters and local guides.
  • Costs associated with an expedition/trek finishing early, or you leaving an expedition / trek early
  • Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances including the cost of extra nights accommodation, and if required the helicopter cost to and from Lukla
    (including a share of the leaders cost)

Itinerary

Days 1 - 2

International flight to Kathmandu.

Day 3

Day enjoying the ‘bombardment of the senses’ that is Kathmandu. Sightseeing tours can be arranged and would include visiting the temples of Bodnath, Swayambhunath (The Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath and Durbar Square. Simply wandering around the huge array of shops, markets, cafes, bars and restaurants in Thamel is a fascinating experience.

Day 4

Fly to Lukla (2800m) Trek to Phakding (2610m). A spectacular short internal flight takes us to this tiny airstrip town and the gateway to the Sherpa Kingdom. After lunch we start our short trek along the typically stony path that descends from the forested terraces of Lukla right into the Dudh Kosi valley and the brightly painted lodges of Phakding. There are good views of Kusum Kanguru’s North Face (6367m)

Day 5

Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m). Into the Sherpa capital and the heart of the Khumbu. You will now be becoming familiar with local protocol for passing chortens, mani stones, yaks, spinning prayer wheels etc. and enjoying the hustle and bustle of trekking and everyday life that exists on the ‘Everest Trail’. At Monjo we enter Sagarmartha National Park and can visit the small visitor centre there. Four hours.

Day 6

Rest Day in Namche Bazaar. It is important to have a couple of nights and a rest day in Namche before proceeding any higher. You can spend the day taking short walks up to Thami or Khumjung, visiting the Everest and Ama Dablam viewpoints or just relaxing and exploring the narrow streets of the busy Sherpa capital.

Day 7

Namche Bazaar to Pangboche (3930m). We climb steeply out of Namche, turn the corner, and are immediately presented with superb views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and our destination, Ama Dablam. Crossing the Dudh Kosi involves a steep descent to Phunki Thanghka and its fine water driven prayer wheels before re-ascending to Thyangboche. The famous Sherpa monastery can be visited here, and the surrounding panorama is rightly deemed to be one of the most magnificent mountain viewpoints in the world. The going is easy now and Pangboche, the highest year-round settlement in the valley, is soon reached. Six hours.

Day 8

Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4750m). We leave the busy Everest trail and cross the Imja Khola. Climbing steeply out of the valley and above the tree line we enter the alpine meadows that provide such a fine location for a base camp, no cold and scrappy glacier moraine sites here!

Day 9

Rest Day at Base Camp. Another acclimatisation day spent exploring the alpine meadows and views around camp, packing gear for higher on the mountain and relaxing in this very pleasant spot.

Day 10 - 25

Ascent of Ama Dablam, South West Ridge. See section entitled ‘The Climbing Day’.

Day 26

Base Camp to Thyangboche (3860m). On the return trek folk have the option of staying in places not visited on the way up or returning to the more western style luxuries available in Namche.

Day 27

Thyangboche to Monjo (2840m). You will now really feel the warmth and rich air of the forest zone.

Day 28

Monjo to Lukla. The Alpine mountain hut atmosphere of Paradise Lodge in Lukla is the ideal place to relax and celebrate your journeys end.

Day 29

Fly Lukla to Kathmandu. Back to the comforts of our hotel in Thamel and the enjoyable hustle and bustle. This is a good time to buy souvenirs and try your hand at haggling with the local shopkeepers. We will dine in one of Kathmandu’s finest restaurants and experience some local dancing styles!

Day 30

Return flight from Kathmandu. The flight usually departs late afternoon so you will have a final morning free in Kathmandu.

Insurance

It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:

  • Cancellation or curtailment
  • Helicopter rescue (most insurance companies will no longer cover for ‘search and rescue’ but providing you stay with the group, they will assist with ‘rescue’)
  • Repatriation
  • The altitude that you are expected to attain
  • The location especially when travelling to Antarctica
  • Grade of trek/climb/expedition
  • Medical cover

Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services.  Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue:
https://partner.globalrescue.com/adventurepeaks/



We are aware the following provide insurance:

For UK based clients:

HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com  Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com  Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com  Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk  Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk  Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
Campbell Irvine: www.campbellirvine.com  Tel: 0207 938 1737 (Not for treks/climbs with ropes – OK for Aconcagua)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk  Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk  Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk  Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk  Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)

For non-UK based clients:

HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com  Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com  Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com  Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk  Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com  Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com  Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)

You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.

Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com

 

Reviews

Chris · 3 years ago ·

Good price for UK provider

Stuart · 9 years ago ·

This was a great trip but obviously tinged with disappointment as weather and conditions stopped us getting up. I chose adventure peaks as you seemed excellent on the phone and in the Summer I visited Ambleside and lakes to do a climbing course which helped convince me you are very professional.

Carrie G · 10 years ago ·

Thanks for the news updates, they were great and my mum and dad loved them!
Stu, our leader was great. Had to know where we would be in three days time, how would we be feeling, how cold would it be, what are you wearing, what was the tea and where were the yaks at any given moment! And he usually did know.
He looked after me when I was tired and sick and didn't break me. It was a great trip Stu, gelled the team well and kept everyone going.


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