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Peak Korzhenevskaya
From £6,500 Altitude 7,105m Grade: 3C
Peak Korzhenevskaya
Peak Korzhenevskaya is a great choice for your first 7000m peak and one of the Russian Snow Leopard.
100% Expedition Success all 3 of our previous expeditions to climb Peak Korzhenevskaya have been successful and whilst it is a little more technical we have found it to be less physically demanding than Peak Lenin which has an exceptionally long summit day.
Peak Korzhenevskaya can be climbed in conjunction with an ascent of Ismoil Somoni Peak7495m (Peak Communism), using Korzhenevskaya to prepare for its higher and more difficult neighbour. The classic Southern ridge route starts from the Moskvina Glade, reached by helicopter and is generally regarded as the safest and easiest route to the summit. Camps are placed at 5300m and 6400m from where we tackle the summit via a narrow but not steep ridge. To aid our ascent and the move between camps we will acclimatise on the nearby Peak Vorobyova (5691m) and porters are used to carry group equipment (tents, stoves and fuel)
Peak Korzhenevskaya is one of the five Russian peaks that make up the Snow Leopard Challenge
Why climb with Adventure Peaks
- Four previously successful expeditions, summiting in 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018
- British Expedition Leader
- High Guiding ratio 1:3 or 1:4
- Helicopter Approach
- High-altitude porters carry group equipment (tents, stoves and fuel)
- 4 days set aside for a summit attempt
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Dates & Prices
Availability
* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.
Extras
Extras can be added per-person when you book onto a date
| Item | Price | Days | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ismoil Somoni extension | £4,500 | +10 days | |
| Adventure Peaks Logoed Kit Bag (Non UK addresses + Postage) | £85 |
* A deposit of £200 (or the full extra price, whichever is lower) will be required at checkout for each extra added per-person on this trip
What's Included
- International flights from London (Flight Inclusive package)
- A British expedition team leader.
- Porters for group equipment (tents, stoves and fuel)
- Internal flights
- Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights booked with Adventure Peaks
- Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the expedition.
- Food, fuel and cooking equipment whilst on the mountain.
- Hotel accommodation in Dushanbe on a Bed & Breakfast basis.
- All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb.
- Medical safety equipment and supplies.
- Communication equipment (each member on a Grade 3B or above are normally provided with a radio whilst on the mountain and the team is often supported with a Satellite Telephone and e-mail facilities on extended expeditions at Base Camp).
- All team members will receive a free logoed trip T-Shirt with the name of your Expedition on it.
- 24 hour back up from UK staff
- 15% off the RRP on clothing and equipment purchases from Adventure Peaks shop
What's Excluded
- Travel to and from UK airport
- Personal climbing clothes and equipment.
- Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations.
- Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights NOT booked with Adventure Peaks
- Drinks and hotel or guest house meals unless specified.
- Personal medical supplies.
- Personal use of communication equipment.
- Excess baggage.
- Tips for porters and local guides.
- Costs associated with an expedition finishing early.
- Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early.
- Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances.
Itinerary
Days 1 - 2 | Depart UK, arriving Dunshabe early the following morning on day 2. Obtain Snacks/Hill food relax |
Day 3 | Transfer to Djirgital (6 to 7 hours). |
Day 4 | Helicopter flight to Base camp at Moskvina Glade. |
Days 5 - 6 | Acclimatisation walks around BC. |
Days 7 - 8 | Acclimatisation days on Vorobyova Peak (5691m), with possible camp above 5000m. Return to BC |
Day 9 | Rest and preparation day at Base Camp. |
Day 10 | We ascend to Camp 1 5300m with food and some personal gear. Porters move group equipment. The route follows a well-marked path across the Moskvina Glacier to its head. 3-4 in-situ fixed ropes may be used for the later section.The path traverses the slope to where the glacier butts up against the rocky sidewall. Here we leave the glacier and cross the rocks. Stone-fall is a real danger here, so helmets are a must. The camp at 5300m sits on the right bank moraine. |
Day 11 | Today we make a small carry up to Camp 2 at 5800m and then return to Camp 1 for the night. Porters move group gear. The Ascent to Camp 2 is up a moderately steep ice and snow slope, then rope up and cross some crevasses at its upper part. The final approach to Camp 2 involves ascending steep slope jutting to the peaks’ south-west rock wall. The tents are protected from rock-falls by some overhangs. |
Day 12 | Return to BC |
Day 13 | Rest Day. |
Days 14 - 15 | Ascend to Camp 2 over two days. |
Day 16 | Ascent to Camp 3. A long traverse takes us across the ice-snow slope under the south-west wall towards Camp 3. The slope is steep, so we use 4 fixed ropes. Due to rock-fall and avalanche threat, this traverse presents a serious objective danger and care must be taken. A steep 100m section is climbed using fixed ropes. After climbing over a minor pinnacle called “Parus” we come to a saddle (6100m), where several tents can be placed. A much better place (the normal one for the assault camp), is further along the ridge, behind a 20m high vertical rock step, on a wide snow slope (6400m). |
Day 17 | Summit Day. We walk initially across a wide snow slope, then move, using either fixed ropes or belaying, along a narrow knife-edge ridge (6550m). At 6700m the ridge broadens out into the summit slope, providing an easy finish to the ascent. We return to Camp 3 or Camp 2. |
Days 18 - 23 | Reserve summit days if required. (If doing Ismoil Somoni, see itinerary above). |
Day 24 | Descend to Base Camp. |
Day 25 | Helicopter and road transfer back to Dushanbe. |
Day 26 | Reserve Helicopter Day. |
Day 27 | Early morning departure for international flights. |
Insurance
It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:
- Cancellation or curtailment
- Helicopter rescue (most insurance companies will no longer cover for ‘search and rescue’ but providing you stay with the group, they will assist with ‘rescue’)
- Repatriation
- The altitude that you are expected to attain
- The location especially when travelling to Antarctica
- Grade of trek/climb/expedition
- Medical cover
Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services. Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue, in particular for peaks over 7000m:
https://partner.globalrescue.com/adventurepeaks/
We are aware the following provide insurance:
For UK based clients:
Expeditions and Treks under 7000m - Campbell Irvine Direct : https://microsite.campbellirvinedirect.com/adventurepeaks/
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)
For non-UK based clients:
HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)
You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.
Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com
Reviews
Nothing wrong about Adventure Peaks! Super professional and I felt in good hands all the way through. Stu, you were fantastic! If there was an option to sort trips by expedition leader on the website, I would sort by your name!...Andrei, the Russian guide, I cannot thank that guy enough. He was amazing...just outstanding. A machine. If I were to be rescued from anywhere in the world, I would feel safe the moment I saw Andrei step out of the helicopter. Please, make sure to use him on more trips!
A well planned expedition among the stunning peaks of Tajikistan, with plenty of time in the schedule for acclimatisation and several spare summit days. Base camp is austere but busy. Route presents a wide variety of terrain, from boulders and scree to glacier crossings, steep snow slopes and short sections of steep rock, long snow covered ridges and wide snow fields, most with fantastic views of the surrounding peaks (weather permitting).
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