International flight to Bishkek & domestic flight to Osh

Those who arrange their own flights should arrive into Bishkek on the morning of Day 2. We will arrange the domestic flights for you. Overnight in hotel in Osh

Final Preparations and gear check. (H, B)

Transfer to Achik-Tash BC (3700m)

We will complete our food shop before making the transfer from Osh to base camp via the Sary-Magol/Alai valley a journey of about 5 hours. (C, B, D)

Acclimatisation on Petrovskogo Peak

To aid our acclimatisation we climb on Petrovskogo Peak a mountain close to base camp and we also use this day to prepare our gear to be transported by mules or horses up to Camp 1. (C, B, L, D)

Camp 1 (4400m)

From BC we walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (Wild Onion Meadow). As the plateau ends, we follow the small steep path that climbs towards the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4100m). We then descend again via the moraine to the right where the start of the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins. A further 5kms walking brings us to Camp 1 at a height of 4400m. 6-8 hours (C, B, L, D)

Acclimatisation Day

To aid acclimatisation we take a short walk after breakfast up to 4700m and then descend for lunch at Camp 1.

(C, B, L, D)

Ascent of Yukina Peak

We ascend Yukina peak 5100m a lovely peak close to ABC that gives outstanding views towards Camp 2 and the route beyond to, Razdelnaya and Peak Lenin. This is an important day of acclimatisation as we want to ensure you are ready to move up to Camp 2 with a degree of strength and efficiency. We return back down to C1. (C, B, L, D)

Acclimatisation & Skills Day

In the morning we will head out on the glacier for skills training and in the afternoon prepare for our move to C2.

(C, B, L, D)

Camp 2

Today, leaving camp early, we make our first ascent to Camp 2, carrying a little food (max 5kg). Porters will move group equipment. Leaving camp, we initially cross a flat and often dry glacier, before roping up for the main ascent which is crevassed. The route progressively gets steeper and there is one section of fixed ropes that you climb to gain the upper section of the glacier which we traverse (the Frying Pan!) to reach C2 located on a rocky outcrop to the far right of the glacier at 5300m (C, B, L, D)

Mt Razdelnaya and Camp 3

Today we ascend to reach Mt Razdelnaya and C3 at 6100m in 6-8 hours. Stay at Camp 3 (C, B, L, D)

Spare weather day

Descend to C1 (C, B, L, D)

Rest Day (C, B, L, D)

Move to C2 and Move to C3 (C, B, L, D)

We have the option to summit from C3 if weather doesn’t allow us to establish Camp 4.

Move to Camp 4

Very few teams establish this camp but it is the biggest factor in summit success as it shortens the summit day by at least 2-3 hours (from the normal Camp 3 it is a minimum of 9hrs to the summit and a long haul back). Camp 4 (6400m) is placed on a plateau that is quite exposed to the wind and therefore it is established according to the weather forecast, but it does gives us a significant advantage over most groups who follow a traditional series of 3 camps and must climb this, the toughest section, in darkness. (C, B, L, D)

Summit Day

From Camp 4 we cross the plateau to climb a short steep snow slope of about 40 degrees which is normally fixed; this is followed by another rocky section which eventually leads to a pre-summit plateau. The route then drops before a final rise to the true summit at 7134m. Ultimately it is a long summit day 8-10 hours from our Camp 4 or 10-15 hours from Camp 3. (C, B, L, D)

Reserve summit Days (C, B, L, D)

Return to Camp 1 (C, B, L, D)

Clearing the mountain as we go, we head back down to Camp 1 for a well-earned rest.

Return to BC transfer to Osh. (H,B)

Morning flight to Bishkek.

Evening flight departing Bishkek on Day 23 or early morning on day 24