International flight to Bishkek & domestic flight to Osh
Those who arrange their own flights should arrive into Bishkek on the morning of Day 2. We will arrange the domestic flights for you. Overnight in hotel in Osh
Final Preparations and gear check. (H, B)

Transfer to Achik-Tash BC (3700m)
We will complete our food shop before making the transfer from Osh to base camp via the Sary-Magol/Alai valley a journey of about 5 hours. (C, B, D)

Acclimatisation on Petrovskogo Peak
To aid our acclimatisation, we climb on Petrovskogo Peak a mountain close to base camp, and we also use this day to prepare our gear to be transported by mules or horses up to Camp 1. (C, B, L, D)

BC - Camp 1 (4400m)
From BC we walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (Wild Onion Meadow). As the plateau ends, we follow the small steep path that climbs towards the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4100m). We then descend again via the moraine to the right where the start of the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins. A further 5kms walking brings us to Camp 1 at a height of 4400m. 6-8 hours (C, B, L, D)

A full day of acclimatisation and skills training (if needed) on the glaciated slopes that lead to Camp 2.

Ascent of Yukina Peak for acclimatisation
We ascend Yukina peak 5100m a lovely peak close to ABC that gives outstanding views towards Camp 2 and the route beyond to, Razdelnaya and Peak Lenin. This is an important day of acclimatisation as we want to ensure you are ready to move up to Camp 2 with a degree of strength and efficiency. We return back down to C1. (C, B, L, D)

In the morning we will head out on the glacier for skills training and in the afternoon prepare for our move to C2.
(C, B, L, D)

Camp 1 - Camp 2
Today, leaving camp early, we make our ascent to Camp 2 with our personal gear and a little food (max 5kg). Porters will move group equipment. Leaving camp, we initially cross a flat and often dry glacier, before roping up for the main ascent, which is crevassed. The route progressively gets steeper, and there is one section of fixed ropes that you climb to gain the upper section of the glacier, which we traverse (the Frying Pan!) to reach C2 located on a rocky outcrop to the far right of the glacier at 5300m. (C, B, L, D)

Mt Razdelnaya
Today we ascend again, passing yesterday’s high point to reach Mt Razdelnaya at 6100m in 6-8 hours, returning to C2 overnight (C, B, L, D)

Reserve summit Days (C, B, L, D)

Return to Camp 1 (C, B, L, D)
Clearing the mountain as we go, we head back down to base camp for a well-earned rest.

Return to BC (C, B, L, D)

Return to Osh (H,B)

Morning flight to Bishkek. Evening flight departing Bishkek on Day 16 or early morning on Day 17