International flight

Arrive in Osh or you may find it easier to overnight in Bishkek and then take a domestic flight Bishkek to Osh. Arrive in the morning with time to explore the sights, bazaars and do our shopping for mountain snacks. (H, B)

Transfer to Achik-Tash base camp (3700m)
We transfer from Osh to base camp via the Sary-Magol/ Alai valley a journey of about 5 hrs (C, B, L, D)

Acclimatisation on Petrovskogo Peak
To aid our acclimatisation we climb on Petrovskogo Peak, a mountain close to base camp, and also use this day to prepare our gear to be transported by mules up to ABC. Camp 1 (C, B, L, D)

BC - Camp 1
From BC we walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (Wild Onion Meadow). As the plateau ends we follow the small steep path that climbs towards the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4100m). We then descend again via the moraine to the right where the start of the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins. A further 5kms walking brings us to ABC (Camp 1) at a height of 4400m. 6-8 hours. (C, B, L, D)

A low activity day at Base Camp to aid acclimatisation and recap on glacial travel and crevasse rescue skills. (C, B, L, D)

We ascend Yukina peak 5100m a lovely peak close to ABC that gives outstanding views towards Camp 2 and the route beyond to, Razdelnaya and Peak Lenin. We spend the night camping on the summit of the peak. This is an important day of acclimatisation as we want to ensure you are ready to move up to Camp 2 with a degree of strength and efficiency.

Today, after striking camp, we descend back down to ABC in time for breakfast. 2-3 hours. In the afternoon we do further skills training and prepare for our move to C2 and the summit.

Today we climb to Camp 2 with food (2-3 kg) and our personal gear. Porters will move group equipment. Crossing the flat glacier, we head up the face to the Skovorodka (Frying Pan!). This area is crevassed, so the group will be roped up to cross this terrain. The route progressively gets steeper until a traverse can be made to Camp 2 which is located on a rocky outcrop to the far right of the glacier at 5300m. 6-8 hours.

Today we get used to the steepest part of the climb by taking an acclimatisation walk/climb up the steepening and fixed ropes that lead towards Razdelnaya. We gain the viewpoint of a small subsidiary summit at 5700m before returning to Camp 2.

Mt Razdelnaya Summit Day - Today we use our many years of experience. We ascend again passing yesterday’s high point to reach Mt Razdelnaya at 6100m in 6-8 hours. We stay the night at C2 and descend the next morning to ABC

Reserve summit day

Return to Camp 1 (ABC) Clearing the mountain as we go, we head back down to base camp.

Return to BC and Transfer to Osh. (H, B)

Internal flight to Bishkek.

Return International flight from Bishkek