Tien Shan Climber

Tien Shan Climber

From £3,295
Altitude 6,150m Grade: 3C

Peak Chapayev a classic snow climb in the Tien Shan with stunning views of Khan Tengri.

One of our best Expeditions, Director, David Pritt, introduced the Tien Shan Climber expedition to bring this most spectacular and unspoilt region into the reach of the less experienced mountaineer. The mountains in this remote area of Asia are Himalayan in stature, with the highest peak reaching 7443m. The Tien Shan peaks form the rigid backbone of Kyrgyzstan, wedged between China and Kazakhstan.

Our exhilarating journey to Base Camp is initially taken by helicopter up the Inylchek Glacier. At close proximity, you will fly through a vast panorama of classical glaciated and jagged peaks. Our initial period of acclimatisation will be spent practicing glacial and fixed roped skills overlooked by the most northerly 7000m peaks in the world. We acclimatise on Karly Tau Peak 5450m in readiness to attempt the North summit of Peak Chapayev (6150m), our main objective. We share the route with those attempting to summit the majestic Khan Tengri 7010m. The ascent involves establishing two camps en route, but our approach will be richly rewarded with a vista of tremendous proportions. With our ambition achieved, we can gaze across to the jewel of the Tien Shan itself, Khan Tengri. Its elegant ridges and pyramidal peak elevates its beauty to that of the distinguished profiles of Ama Dablam and the Matterhorn as some of the most beautiful peaks in the world.

The mountaineering on Chapeyev does include steep snow slopes, an exposed snow arete close to Scottish Grade I /II and some steep mixed climbing (grade II) over rock, snow and ice to reach the summit. A less technical expedition in this region is our Alpine Tien Shan Expedition which just climbs Karly Tau Peak 5450m.

Dates & Prices

Show prices in
All prices in Euros are guide rates, not live rates
All prices in US Dollars are guide rates, not live rates


Flight Inclusive
With Flight
Land Only
With Flight
15th Jul 2023 - 4th Aug 2023 Spaces21 £3,295£3,945 Book Now

* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.

What's Included

  • ATOL financial protection when booked flight inclusive.
  • Estimated International Flights from London (flight inclusive price)   
  • A Western expedition team leader.
  • Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the expedition.
  • Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Food, fuel and cooking equipment whilst on the mountain.
  • Two nights hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Karakol on a Bed & Breakfast basis.
  • All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb.
  • Medical safety equipment and supplies.
  • Communication equipment (VHF radios whilst on the mountain, Satellite Telephone).
  • 100 - 120 litre kit bag for expedition members for UK based clients. A logoed top will be substituted for all clients residing outside of the UK and for returning clients
  • 24 hour back up and support from UK staff
  • 15% off the RRP on clothing and equipment purchased from Adventure Peaks shop

What's Excluded

  • Travel to and from UK airport
  • Personal climbing clothes and equipment.
  • Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations.
  • Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights NOT booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Drinks and hotel or guest house meals, unless specified.
  • Personal medical supplies
  • Personal use of communication equipment.
  • Excess baggage.
  • Tips for porters and local guides.
  • Costs associated with an expedition finishing early.
  • Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early.
  • Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances.


Days 1 - 2

International Flight to Bishkek. Early morning arrival in Bishkek, rest and recoup. Final preparations, food purchases and final sorting of equipment (H,B).

Day 3

Morning transfer to Karakol (H,B)

Day 4

Early morning Transfer to the heliport at Karkara, by six wheel vehicle, a sense of remoteness will begin to set in. Helicopter  to Base Camp at 3900m, a spectacular journey up the North Inylchek glacier. Establish base camp beneath Khan Tengri and Chapayev (C,B,L,D).

Day 5

Acclimatisation and Glacial Skills Training; fixed rope techniques.

Days 6 - 14

Ascent of Chapayev (C,B,L,D)

Day 15

Return to BC (C,B,L,D)

Days 16 - 17

Helicopter and return to Karakol or Bishkek visiting Issyk-Kul Lake to relax and enjoy the warm water and sun! (H,B).

Day 18

Return International flight and arrival in UK.


It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:

  • Cancellation or curtailment
  • Helicopter rescue (most insurance companies will no longer cover for ‘search and rescue’ but providing you stay with the group, they will assist with ‘rescue’)
  • Repatriation
  • The altitude that you are expected to attain
  • The location especially when travelling to Antarctica
  • Grade of trek/climb/expedition
  • Medical cover

Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services.  Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue:

We are aware the following provide insurance:

For UK based clients:

HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com  Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com  Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com  Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk  Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk  Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
Campbell Irvine: www.campbellirvine.com  Tel: 0207 938 1737 (Not for treks/climbs with ropes – OK for Aconcagua)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk  Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk  Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk  Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk  Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)

For non-UK based clients:

HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com  Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com  Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com  Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk  Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com  Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com  Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)

You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.

Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com



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