Guaranteed Mount Elbrus Expeditions 2017


By Adventure Peaks
December 15, 2016
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We have several guaranteed Expeditions to the South side of Mount Elbrus for June – September 2017.

Our standard climbing expedition via the south ridge has achieved outstanding success rates for people of all levels over the past decade.

On this expedition we gradually gain height and increase our chance of success by taking time to acclimatise in the Syltran-Su valley on Mount Mukal, which offers views across the beautiful valleys to Elbrus. Once acclimatised, we use the cable car to regain our high point at just over 4000m from where we follow sweeping snow slopes to the col between Elbrus’ twin summits before continuing easily to the true summit of Europe’s highest mountain in an ascent of about 1000m.

In 2016 100% of our groups reached the summit and 99.5% of clients; 68 out 69 summits! In 2015 all clients (100%) from five of our groups reached the true summit of Elbrus, and 80% on our sixth group. This success is in sharp contrast to what is normally achieved on the Northern approach due to the gruelling summit day. 2016 was the exception on the North side which saw far better success than the norm of 40% due to the incredibly good weather experienced during that season.

Itinerary

Day 1 International travel via Moscow

Day 2 We arrive late morning in Mineralnye Vody (Mineral Waters) just to the North of the Caucasus mountain range. From here a 4-hour overland journey by road past fields of sunflowers takes us to the Upper Baksan Valley. We arrive at our hotel which will form the main base for the expedition. (H/L,B, L,D)

Day 3 From our hotel we drive to Verkhniy Baksan, here we leave the main road and take the road as far as possible up the Syltran-Su valley (ideally to 2300m, but will depend on road conditions). At the end of the road we will trek to Lake Syltrankel at 3000m, 3-4 hours, where we will have lunch, set up our overnight camp, refresh skills and relax. (C, B, L, D).

Day 4
Today we make our ascent of Mount Mukal (3899m). On a clear day you will also be rewarded with beautiful views across the Baksan valley towards Elbrus. (C,B,L,D).

Day 5 After packing up camp ready for the porters we descend back to the valley and return to the hotel to make our final preparations for the Elbrus summit bid. (H/L,B,L,D).

Day 6 Today we take the cable car and chair lift to the Barrels at 3800m on Elbrus (also called ‘Bochky’ or ‘Karabashi’), our base for the next few nights to further aid the process of acclimatisation before our summit bid. Whilst on the mountain the accommodation is more basic but food will be cooked for you. If time permits we will do a further short acclimatisation walk to the old burnt down Prijutt Refuge, 4060m. (MH,B,L,D)

Day 7 Today our destination is the Pastukov Rocks stretching from 4500-4700m, allowing us to practice crampon work as well as being rewarded with good views of Ushba, one of the most famous mountains of the region,often described as the Matterhorn of the Caucasus. We overnight at the Barrels. (MH,B,L,D)

Days 8 to 10 Potential summit days:
We rise in the early hours and prepare for a 3am departure for the highest point of Europe. It is often possible to obtain a lift by Snowcat to around 4500m. The route from here is a steady climb up to the Sedlowina Saddle, the col between the two peaks of Elbrus. From here the final 300 metres of ascent to the West summit is on steeper snow slopes. The ascent is approximately 8-12 hours round trip. Time permitting we will return to our hotel base in the valley to celebrate or spend a further night in the Barrels. (MH,B,L,D)

Day 11 Morning transfer to Mineralnye Vody and fly to Moscow for late afternoon International flights, usually getting you home the same day.

Price: from £1700

* Next Booking Discounts of £150 available for a limited period *

Expeditions between June and September 2017


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