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Island Peak October 2012 Expedition

By October 29, 2012Current Trips

Leader: Zac Poulton
View full details of our Mera and Island Peak expedition and book online

27th Oct: High winds have shut Lukla airport but not before the whole Adventure Peaks Island Peak team were safely back in Kathmandu. As expected we made the journey in a far smaller plane than usual which gave everyone some spectacular views back towards Everest and a number of other 8000m peaks. Lots of folk getting big ideas after their recent success!

A shower and shave and folk are looking forward to a couple of lemonades at Rum Doodles tonight for a celebration dinner with the traditional signing of a yeti footprint. Our final early start and the whole team should be winging their way back to the UK tomorrow after a very successful expedition. Zac

26th Oct: The Island peak team back in Lukla now after a long but stunning days walk. Even before we checked into Paradise Lodge most of the team had consumed one of the the world’s biggest chocolate donuts with a fresh coffee. Yak sizzlers and a beer or two on the menu tonight before an early morning flight back to Kathmandu weather permitting. It seems very strange that just four days ago we were stood on the summit of Island Peak. A huge thanks to Nuru, Mingma 1 (aka Bob) and Mingma 2.

25th Oct: The team have now arrived back in Namche Bazar. Last night saw a few individuals sampling the delights of Chang or locally brewed rice wine. Surprisingly there were no headaches this morning and we made an early start for the stunning walk back down the Khumba. We now believe we summited in temperatures of -24 degrees in what has been the coldest October in the region for the last 20 years.

Everyone is now tucked up by the yak dung stove and eating cake. We’ve spotted some very clean looking members of the Adventure Peaks Ama Dablam and Ultimate Everest expeditions in town who are just beginning their journey. For us it’s back to Lukla tomorrow and an early morning flight back to Kathmandu on the 27th. Zac

24th Oct: The Island Peaks team is now in Pangboche. Weather has changed with lots of cloud and snow this afternoon. Back to Namche Bazar tomorrow for beer and cake. Zac

23rd Oct: Summit Success!!! Zac has called to report they have had a very successful summit day. Although a long and tiring climb, 8 clients made the summit with Zac and 2 sherpas. It was good weather with no clouds but a little gusty but the team were wearing down-jackets to ward off the cold.

It’s now 6pm (local time) and the team are all back down to Base Camp. Temperature is dropping down to -10 degrees as its dark now. Trekking back to Tengboche tomorrow.

22nd Oct: The weather has been stunning; the afternoon cloud disappeared and didn’t leave a cloud in the sky. It’s now dark and the stars are out. Temperature is -10 and dropping.

The team are all feeling in top form with no headaches and planning on having an early start then going for the summit around 1.30am (local time). It’s a great team and we are expecting a good summit success rate.

21st Oct: We all reached the summit of Chukung Ri today at 5565m. The weather was good with only a few high clouds, so the views of Pumori and Makalu were stunning. Everyone is a little tired after a long day, but all are well and in good spirits as we settle down for the evening. There is no shortage of food and no sign of anyone’s appetite being affected by the altitude! Tomorrow we head up to Island Peak Basecamp. The sherpa team have already gone on ahead and have set up a good basecamp ready for our arrival, and we aim to try for the summit on Tuesday.

20th Oct: Reached Chukhung (4730m) today. Weather is perfect and we have been watching climbers on the summit ridge of Island Peak this afternoon. We will spend two nights here, climbing Chukhung Ri on Sunday for acclimatisation, moving up to Basecamp on Monday and going for the summit on Tuesday. Zac is the only one with a bit of a headache and the team are all well and continuing with their hearty appetites. No mobile signal here, so don’t expect any more calls until we get back down to Pangboche.

19th Oct: We travelled from Tengboche to Dingboche (4358m). We had a good days walking through beautiful rhododendron trees that eventually led us back to the river and into Pangboche. We left and trekked into the Imja valley to arrive in the village of Dingboche and enjoyed the amazing views of Island Peak. Despite a few headaches the team are all well and continuing with their hearty appetites.

18th Oct: Stunning views of Everest, Lhotse & Ama Dablam today from the trail to Tengboche. After lunch by the river we paid our respects at the monastry before fortifying ourselves on chocolate & rum cake and strong coffee. A quick descent to Middle Earth and the Rivendale Lodge in Debouche for dinner watching the sun set over Everest.

17th Oct: Another stunning day in the Khumbu. Today’s plan was an acclimatisation day around Namche Bazaar. In the event there was a wee bit of walking and plenty of eating – hot chocolate at the Everest View Hotel, Potato Rosti in Khungjung (sp), a quick viewing of the yeti scalp in the Gompa and back to Namche for a repeat visit to the Everest Bakery.

Everest stayed hidden in the clouds today but we had great views of Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamseku. Two more meals and we’re away up the valley heading for the Buddhist Monastery at Tengboche.

16th Oct: Everyone comfortably up to Namche Bazaar and tucking into cake and coffee in the Everest Bakery. Funny as a few hours ago they were complaining as there was too much food at lunch!

A slow and steady pace today meant that there are no headaches and everybody is feeling fine at 3400m. No sign of Everest yet due to the afternoon cloud but an early morning acclimatisation walk tomorrow morning should give us some great views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamseku and Kusum Kangri.

After yesterdays luxury accommodation with en-suite bathrooms and hot showers expectations were high and the group have not been disappointed with comfortable twin rooms overlooking the Namche bowl. We’ve got yet more food in a couple of hours with a three course dinner finished off with apple pie.

15th Oct: All good in Phakding with ensuite bathrooms and hot showers. Good food, milky tea and everyone happy!

14th Oct: The team have all arrived safely in Kathmandu and have had their briefing. The weather is looking good for their departure to Lukla tomorrow morning.

Zac Poulton

About Zac Poulton

Zac Poulton is an experienced mountain instructor and expedition guide. He holds the MIC, the highest mountaineering qualification in the UK and is a full member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors , theMIC.org, the Alpine Club and has a background in Sport & Exercise Science. In 2011 he led an expedition to the North Ridge of Everest which put 18 climbers including himself, on the summit. Among his clients was 16 year old George Atkinson, the youngest Britain to summit and the youngest person in the world to complete the 7 Summits. Zac has safely led a total of 27 people above 8000m. Other notable ascents have included the 11th British & 1st Australian ascent of Baruntse (7201m), 2nd British ascent of Himlung Himal (7126m), 100% success leading on Cho Oyu and a solo ascent of Ama Dablam.


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