Ismoil Somoni Expedition - July 2019


Peak Lenin

Departed 17th July 2019

Leader – Arturo Gutierrez Valles

14th Aug

Max got back to Osh last night and is now planning how to utilise his time before his onward journey back to Dushanbe.


12th Aug

Max reached the summit of Peak Lenin yesterday. It took 9.5 hours to reach the summit having to battle with some strong winds and 5 hours back down to Camp 3.  He’s now back down safe at ABC.


31st July

The team are back down in the valley and will have a rest day tomorrow.


30th July

Arturo and the team are at 5100m

peak lenin 1


28th July 

Arturo has sent to say that both groups are well and are at base camp today.

peak lenin 1


26th July

Arturo sent this picture this morning as they were heading to base camp, which was the team’s first views of the Peak Lenin and the Pamir mountain range.


31st July

The team are back down in the valley and will have a rest day tomorrow.


20th July

On Monday evening, 15th July,  we recieved word form our agent that the government helicopter used for Korzhenevskaya & Ismoil Somoni was not avaialable for the planned dates of the trip. This left the team with a very difficult decsion of cancel their trip that they had been preparing for, or to still fly on the 17th July and overland into Kyrgyzstan to climb Peak Lenin. Well as the trek into Moskavina Glade was eventually deemed out of the question by the Russian rope fixing team, the team decided to make good use of the time they have and to head out of Tajikistan and climb Peak Lenin. All being well they will cross the border into Kyrgyzstan on Thursday and after lunch in Osh will drive to Achik Tash (Peak Lenin Base Camp).


Stu Peacock

About Stu Peacock

Stu Peacock is a very experienced high altitude mountaineer who has been to the Summit of Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Manaslu and climbed on K2. His other expeditions include: Ama Dablam, Peak Lenin, Aconcagua, Khan Tengri, Tien Shan Unclimbed, Korzhenevskaya, Himlung Himal, Baruntse, Mera & Island Peak, Alpamayo, Bolivian Peaks, Spantik, Carstensz Pyramid, Elbrus, Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro. He was the first Brit to summit Everest via the North Ridge 3 times and has climbed Everest from both the North & South sides.


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