Annapurna IV 5th October 2024 Expedition News


Annapurna IV 5th October 2024 Expedition News

Leader: Stu Peacock

30th October 2024 - Summit Success!!

It had been a restless few days as strong winds had been battering the tents, and it seemed that a summit attempt would be unlikely in the window that had given! But, fate was on the side of the Adventure Peaks Team. As they left Camp at 8:30pm, the winds that had hounded them miraculously ended, and they were able to proceed! It was a long and arduous ascent, but they succesfully reached the summit of Annapurna IV! Well done team!!

22nd October 2024 - Taking it easy at Base Camp

Our much looked forward to evening entertainment is skip-bo, introduced to me by Jenny, on the 2022 Himlung trip. Every trip I take it on, it gives much enjoyment, frustration and friendly rivalry, to while away the evenings!!

Today we walked up to the lake by base camp, in order to stretch our legs a bit. It's a beautiful copper sulphate blue lake that is the water source for our camp.

The weather has been checked and we're fixing our summit day for the 28th, so we will have one more rest day at base camp tomorrow and then head to camp 1 on the 24th.

21st October 2024 - Summit plans are in place

We made our way back through the rock band to camp 1 for our first night camping on the mountain. On the 18th we progressed up the less steep, but longer climb to camp 2 at 5900m. The next day was planned for our Sherpas to fix to camp 3. Giving them a 3 hour head start we followed them up to 6300m, just 45 minutes shy of the camp, before the cold of the shade turned us around. The Sherpas did an amazing job, and much to the relief of all of us, the overhanging serac that normally bars the way to camp 3 has now split and there is now a straight forward route between the halves of serac to the camping area. After descending back to camp 2, we said goodbye to our Sherpas as they headed down to base camp and we enjoyed a second night with just four of us with the mountain to ourselves. Today we descended back to base camp in nice weather and, as usual Rowan, welcomed us with a fantastic lunch and hot showers!!

We are now looking forward to a couple of days rest before we head back up for the summit push. We're currently looking at the 27th or 28th to make our summit attempt.

17th October 2024 - making good progress

Yesterday we walked over to the crampon point at 5000m and made a stash of kit. The Sherpas fixed the route to camp 1 yesterday.

Today we touched camp 1 and deposited kit. The team were amazed by the challenge of the rock buttress up to camp 1 and were elated to make it and we were rewarded with some spectacular views of Manaslu. We had lunch at the camp and then made our way back down to base camp.

The food at base camp has been amazing and there is always too much for us to consume.

Tomorrow we plan to go back up to sleep at camp 1 and then camp 2.

14th October 2024 - Puja day

On the 12th we made our way from Humde in to the Sabej Khola valley. After only 3 hours we made it to our camping spot at 3900m. Suraj came down from base camp brining a welcome packed lunch and evening meal. Inn the afternoon we followed the ridge up towards base camp to a height of 4300m for a bit of extra acclimatisation.

Yesterday, after another 3 hour journey we made it to our base camp at 4800m and our home for the next few weeks. The clients loved the roomy sleeping tents that you can stand up in and spread your gear around and the heated mess tent kept us toasty while we had our evening meal.

Today, we had our puja ceremony after breakfast, Mike added his sleeping mat to the pile of climbing gear in the hope that it won't get punctured this trip. Before lunch we sorted our food out, that we would need for the first rotation on the mountain.

After lunch we practiced fixed line skills and abseiling. The plan for the next few days will be to walk to crampon point and have a play on the fixed lines, while the Sherpas fix to camp 1 and 2. We will then make a carry to camp 1 and then we will move up to camp 1 and 2 respectively. With the plan to be back down at base camp on the 16th or 17th.

Crocs rule!

11th October 2024 - Acclimatisation Day at Humde

We didn't head back up the same way today. The lodge owner had told Shiva there was a really nice trail heading up the other side of the valley, so we agreed to that. After two hours and 45 minutes of thrashing through pine forests we finally reached a flat area at 4100m, which we declared our stopping point for the day. We were rewarded with some stunning views of Annapurna III and Pisang peak.

After a pleasant rest we descended back down to the village in time for lunch. This afternoon will be a relaxing affair and final sorting of kit, before we start our journey tomorrow to Sabej Khola.

10th October 2024 - At Humde

The drive wasn't too arduous today, taking only 3 hours, including a slight diversion to Upper Pisang to drop off some supplies at the village.

We managed to get some dramatic views off Annapurna II, but the cloud has obscured our first views of Annapurna IV.

We'll go for a short walk after lunch to stretch the legs, at 3280m, we're starting to feel the slight breathlessness of being at this altitude.

The walk today was nice and we managed to walk up to 3820m without too much trouble. We walked to a stupa above the village of ngawal. We got our first view of the summit of Annapurna IV, breaking through the cloud, which certainly caused a buzz of excitement within the team.

After some time taking in the scenery we then dropped down to ngawal for a brew and then back to Humde.

We've decided to head back up the same way tomorrow, but will carry on to a cave that is sign posted, which will take us to over 4000m. This will give us a better height gain compared to walking to Manang and with less effort required to get there.

10th October 2024 - Chame and Onwards

The team have had a pleasant afternoon and night in Koto. Alberto, Mike, Harry and Andrew all opted for Apple pie for pudding last night, not expecting each pie to be big enough to feed 4 people. They made a valiant effort battling their way through each one. Only one piece was left by Mike, but he promises he will try harder next time...

We woke this morning to nice views of Lamjung and Annapurna II, which is making it feel more real for the team. Today we head to Humde, our last stay for a couple of nights before heading to base camp.

9th October 2024 - The drive so far

Currently having lunch in Danaque. The jeep ride from Besisahar, has been pretty quick despite the bumpy ride. Couple of stops along the way.

The drive from Besishar

8th October 2024 - The team are now is Besishar

Having a brew. We took an alternate route at the start, because the tunnel construction is causing major delays. We had a nice lunch stop by the trishuli. Lots of landslides have taken place in the recent heavy rain but only one broken down vehicle blocking the road caused some delay.

Tea Break

7th October 2024 - Relaxing before the journey tomorrow

A pleasant night was had at the cultural evening. We're all looking forward to our journey to Besisahar tomorrow and the adventure that lies ahead.

Team photo after the cultural evening

Ministry Briefing - we have the permit!

6th October 2024 - Out to Dinner - an important part of any expedition

Stu callled to say that the team have all arrived and had their kit check, Stu has been to do a food shop and tonight the team will head to K2's for Dinner ( one of my favourites). Tomorrow Stu will go the the Ministry for a briefing and the team will do some sight seeing and last minute shopping before heading out to a cultural evening.

4th October 2024 - Nepal Awaits!

Tomorrow the team will make there way to Kathmandu, where we will have a couple of days making the final preparations for our trip: Ministry breifing, buying snack food for on the mountain and checking kit.

We will then drive to Besisahar and from Besi, we will transfer into jeeps for the bumpy road journey to Chame and Humde. From Humde we will make the relatively short trek to base camp (4850m) over two days to allow for acclimatisation.


Stu Peacock

About Stu Peacock

Stu Peacock is a very experienced high altitude mountaineer who has been to the Summit of Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Manaslu and climbed on K2. His other expeditions include: Ama Dablam, Peak Lenin, Aconcagua, Khan Tengri, Tien Shan Unclimbed, Korzhenevskaya, Himlung Himal, Baruntse, Mera & Island Peak, Alpamayo, Bolivian Peaks, Spantik, Carstensz Pyramid, Elbrus, Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro. He was the first Brit to summit Everest via the North Ridge 3 times and has climbed Everest from both the North & South sides.


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