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Leader: Zack Coleman
Shaircho to Hushe on foot, followed by a jeep drive back to Skardu. Hot showers and comfortable beds beckon! From Skardu, we catch the internal flight to Islamabad. Then, we are homeward bound.
An early start. It was the only option if we wanted to be able to cross several small streams via improvised footbridges. For a team who had all recently crossed the Pass (and some the Peak), 0600 was no bother at all. The initial walk downhill was rather cold. The sun took a while to creep higher than the steep sided mountains. Just as it was rising, the team took a left turn to follow the Gondogoro Glacier down. A burst of delightfully fresh, flowery scents greeted us. This was a novel experience since leaving Askole two weeks earlier. After three hours, the team paused briefly at Dalsan, which is the Leila Peak Base Camp. It was a lovely sun trap, complete with lake. From here, we could take in the view towards Masherbrum (fiendishly difficult to climb). Onwards we descended, past a lunch stop which included a spot of horse riding. At last we arrived at the managed site at Shaircho for our last night in a tent this trip.
The high altitude guides woke the Peak Team at 1230 for a quick coffee, before setting off at 0100. The team moved efficiently over the dry glacier and across a rock band. Everyone then roped up before we navigated a small number of crevasses. At 0430 and in daylight, the team watched (in admiration!) the high altitude guides. They fixed the first of what would become five pitches of fixed line, from the shoulder of the peak up to the summit. The angle occasionally required front pointing. It felt sufficiently steep to be a memorable challenge! The summit view was marvellous - and all the more remarkable considering the conditions we had encountered so far on the trip - even suitable for a small drone to go up (photos coming!). After a quick pause to take it all in, the team began reversing their route towards home. We abseiled down the fixed line - past knots, ice screw placements and rock threads. Everyone took it in their stride. Back at High Camp, we liaised with a small porter team that had carried up some snacks for us to enjoy. We then headed back to Huspang for more celebrations. Summit success!
A later breakfast beckoned. The Peak Team then tried to pick out their objective on the skyline. After some investigation, it seemed possible to set up a High Camp. This would reduce the summit day by approximately 300m vertical. The team set about preparations to leave Huspang at 1500. Some of the Trek Team came up to stretch their legs in the afternoon. On arrival at High Camp, the Peak Team enjoyed a superb vista. More delight was to be had in the form of all the essential snacks. Noodles, Nutella on leftover cake, and chapattis smothered in Yellow Cow cheese triangles were the order of the day. We then settled into various forms of media and a few hours of sleep. Meanwhile, the Trek Team was deep in Alfie’s quiz. The lack of internet had a major downside. It was impossible to argue with the quizmaster if they thought he had misremembered the answer!
In the Ali Camp mess tent, the lights went on at 2315. This was to enable the team to have a light breakfast in anticipation of a midnight start. Those in the mess tent had managed some alpine rest, but not much sleep was had (single supplement folks in for the win!). The team worked over a rock band for the first hour and a half. We then moved onto the glacier, and eventually the gearing up point at 0230. Temperatures were very mild and there was no wind, so people were toasty warm. We split into smaller teams of 2/3, and made our way up the fixed lines in darkness. Everyone made it up and over the Pass in time for daylight. It was too cloudy for a full sunrise. This was a huge achievement. Some of the team dug particularly deep to get themselves up to 5620m. This was against an audible backdrop of rockfall and avalanches. After a quick photo on the Pass, off came the crampons for the rocky descent. The team was under pressure to move quickly over some complex, broken terrain. A fixed line gave support but it was often too thick for abseiling. And then, there was the occasional loose rock displaced by other teams above. After two hours of descent, the steep, friable rock gave way to the now more familiar glacial terrain. The team had a quick snack by the porter sock graveyard before continuing to trek out to Huspang. Everyone was in camp by approximately 1100, just in time for lunch. A very well deserved afternoon of relaxation followed. The setting was camping meadow-like. It was complete with greenery, a lake, horse riding, and even a small shop (if you need to buy a stove or some gas, you’re covered). We celebrated with a Pass cake in the afternoon.
A later start this morning. We progressed upwards across the Upper Baltoro. After this, came the magnificent and very photogenic Vigne Glacier. Post-lunch, the route became increasingly crevassed. This added some interest (although they were clearly visible and easily avoided). On arrival at Ali Camp, the team was allocated a mess tent. We then set about preparing for our late evening departure towards the Pass.
The camp was named after Ali Mohammad who found the shortcut home from work in the mountains in the 1980s.
After yet more good food, the team reversed their route back to Concordia. There was one small detour: the Gilkey Memorial. This honours those who died on K2 and the surrounding big mountains. Having rained overnight, the conditions improved throughout the day. It was a rather warm afternoon in Concordia.
A damp day questing up to Broad Peak and K2 BC. The cloud was low and the drizzle persistent. The team worked their way up the Godwin Austen Glacier. We set off on the bouldery right hand side (looking up to K2) and passed Broad Peak BC. This was almost empty with only a few tents left. We then wove our way towards the middle of the glacier for the final 2.5km up to K2 BC. The visibility was <100m. While the camp was an array of colourful tents and prayer flags, there weren’t many occupants. This gave the camp an eerie feeling. Some of the team opted to watch Netflix in the mess tent. Others hibernated in their warm gear, avoiding the drizzle. After dinner, the porters treated us to an impromptu rendition of their favourite Urdu camp songs. Last but not least, Billy toasted his surprise snack, marshmallows, on the gas heater.
A rest day and the luxury of a leisurely 0800 breakfast! Next on the agenda, a crampon technique refresher on the glacier. We had a brief interlude to watch the Pakistan Army drop off supplies by helicopter. Their remit was to repair the broken cell tower (but, as of the evening of the 29th, this hasn’t happened). The team then put together their fixed line sets. This was to practice ascent and descent on a line setup by a member of the Hushe team who fixes lines over the pass. After lunch, about half the group continued to work on passing fixings from the comfort of the mess tent. Once everyone was content, the team relaxed and soaked up the big mountain atmosphere. The evening meal was again elevated by a combined mystery treat. Thanks to Alex for the ginger cake and Neil for the custard. A great combo.
A colder night saw people emerging for breakfast in down jackets and hats, for the first time in the trip. After another efficient breakfast, the team set off, and made steady forward progress. We wove our way through the increasingly large ice sails towards a surreal lunch spot. Afternoon came, and Concordia Camp seemed slow to arrive. The terrain had become more undulating but this was soon forgotten on arrival. We looked up the Goodwin Austin Glacier. Every now and again, we saw the full height of K2 breaking through the clouds. This had to be one of the best camping spots in the world.
That evening, we shared our supper with a 23-year-old Nepali and an older Ukrainian. They had summited Gasherbrum 1. Their success seems against the flow of high altitude mountaineering this season. It seems unlikely that anyone will summit K2 or Broad Peak. Indeed, teams have already started leaving. Meanwhile, our team enjoyed the cake and celebrations. They were clearly impressed by Pem Lakpa Sherpa and Pavlo’s efforts!
These are the days we travel to the mountains for! We had the clearest visibility so far. The team peered down the remaining length of the Boltoro. Our first sighting was Broad Peak poking its head out of the clouds. As we proceeded up the glacier, the Gasherbrums came into view. The skyline made for some inspiring photos and morale was high. Closer to our feet, the glacier served up some interesting shapes, not least the ice sails. We arrived into camp, our first on the glacier. Here, the team had a chance to play ‘spot the rockfall’ from the widest part of the glacier. We were also able to follow the afternoon heat. Later, the goat dinner impressed. And, we sampled the first of the ‘mystery edible surprises’. Annalisa’s caramel bars went down very easily!
A shorter day meant a later breakfast was possible this morning. The team enjoyed a sociable 3-hour walk over the Boltoro. The trail was much better than yesterday, gaining another 200m in height. This took our altitude to >4000m for the first time this trip. Last year, someone painted Urdu proverbs/poetry along this part of the trail. This was presumably to challenge the translation skills of the guides! The team arrived at Urdukas in time for lunch. This was the supplies drop for the 1909 Italian K2 expedition, led by the Duke of the Abruzzi. It was also the basecamp for the Duke of Spoleto’s 1929 K2 expedition.
An early arrival afforded us the opportunity to relax in the afternoon. For many of us, this meant reading, journaling, and washing clothes. Some folk wondered over to the military camp. This gave an amazing view of the length of the Boltoro. The scale is challenging to describe. It certainly feels like it could be the fifth largest non-polar glacier in the world.
Today was a big day. We joined the snout of the Boltoro Glacier. Then, we moved left to right over its endless lumps and bumps in the relentless heat. The lead-up to lunch was poignant. We wove our way through blocks of detached ice. This was followed by a short but steep climb onto the side moraine. Here, we looked back at the constant trickle of small rocks detaching from the surface of the glacier. Lunch followed soon after, at Liligo. The team rested a while. This did though include a little game of rock throwing with some of our porters. We were surrounded on all sides by 6000m granite peaks. After lunch, we continued along the moraine. We then moved onto sand at the join with the Liligo Glacier outlet, and followed the sand into Khobursay.
A day of two halves! First up, tent 'room service'. The first hot drink of the day, served to the tent door, whilst still in your sleeping bag: luxury!
Hydrated, and raring to go, the team then set off in light drizzle, a cool reprieve in the hot temperatures. The track was of good quality and it often ran quite close to the fast flowing Braldu River. It was clear that the track is being widened/relocated to accommodate vehicles in future.
Lunch was under an expertly improvised tarpaulin shelter. The drizzle subsided, and the visibility lifted, cue magnificent views of Paiju Peak. Then came the majestic first sight of the Boltoro Glacier, and the peaks surrounding K2. As we headed to Paiju Camp, the terrain became more bouldery underfoot, and undulating. On arrival, the team enjoyed a chicken BBQ for dinner. Our final treat? A wonderful, flat camping pitch. This was thanks to the terraced levels available for pitching tents.
Into Jhola after a lovely 17km day along the banks of the Braldu River. Team excited to be underway on foot, and enjoying the local hospitality!
The long journey by jeep to Askole is complete. The first 2/3 went very smoothly, then it started to rain! Initially, this was positively received. There would be less dust. However, it also impacted the quality of the stream crossings further along the track. For the team, this had two implications. The improved footbridge and a small stream crossing on foot were yet to come... An adventurous day's journey has come to an end.
Please note: The stranded vehicle is not ours!
After a relaxed breakfast, we headed to Islamabad Airport. The flight to Skardu is one of the world's most scenic. Our luck was in! Not only amazing views, but a friendly pilot who doubled as narrator. This lead to lots of interest in the view of Nanga Parbat and a minor seat scrum...(see photo!).
Landing at Skardu, the heat was palpable (32 °C). So, after some quick photos, we dashed to our vehicles and towards our accommodation for lunch.
In the afternoon, we made our final preparations. On our agenda were the ATM, kit shop, and pharmacy. All were thankfully well stocked. We made it back to the accommodation just before the wind and rain arrived.
All else equal, we expect a 7ish hour Jeep move tomorrow, towards Askole.
Our group has arrived. And..., so has all their luggage! Long live uneventful, international travel. After a quick hello, we delved into a kit check and wrote a wish list of items to locate in Skardu tomorrow. Next on the agenda is dinner. Let's hope that tomorrow's domestic flight affords amazing views of Nanga Parbat.
Hold tight for more exciting photos!
Congratulations to all who have achieved the summit. Another one complete Pete well done to you and the whole team.
Well done Thom and all the team from a warm sofa in rainy Manchester !!
Well done bro and dad looking good
Good Luck to Neil Preedy, and the rest of the team for the final days of your amazing trip and doing so well, what an achievement for everyone.
Well first off, well done Paul, and Billy McKEON, and the rest of the team, for taking on such an incredible challenge, sticking to it, and completing a mountainous terrain and achieving incredible heights, we are so proud of our son, Paul, and grandson Billy, ! Looking forward to seeing you guys all well safe and sound,
So great to have the updates and photos, looks and sounds like an amazing experience. Good luck Neil (and everyone else) for the ascent of Gondogoro Peak tomorrow. Fingers crossed conditions are good 🤞
Some great images there guys. Pete I think Jack would manage along side the river. I hooe you are having the best time. Another Base camp ticked off.well done mate
Sounds amazing guys Pete Jepson I hope you are having the best time. Keep it going mate D
I am following Pete Jepson on this feed. Have a fantastic experience guys and look after eachother.
Following my son Billy Mckeon good luck and stay safe all .
Best wishes to Paul and Billy Mckeon. Good luck everyone.
Wishing the expedition team a safe and fantastic experience! Will be following your adventures on this feed. Looking forward to seeing the photos of Nanga Parbat🤞
Have a great time guys, treasure every moment !!
Have a great time guys, treasure every moment !!
Here to follow my brother who is trekking with you.
Interested always been on my bucket list