Peak Lenin 27th June 2025 Expedition News

Leaders: Stu Peacock & Phurba Sherpa

15th July 2025 - Summit to ABC

After a long day yesterday, today they cleared camp 3 and descended to abc, arriving at 2:40pm and well earned rest.

13th July 2025 - SUMMIT!

Today, the team set off at 11pm on the 13th. One of several groups heading out into the night. Slowly one by one the groups fell away. It was a clear night, but the constant wind was biting. As they got to the top of the steepening at 6600m they left the last of the teams behind. As the forecast predicted the clouds did start to close in around 8am. The team reached the summit at 9am. The only team to summit that day it turns out. A short stay for photos and then they began their long descent, experiencing white out conditions at times. Finally they made it back to camp at 3:30pm.

12th July 2025 - Back across the frying pan

After breakfast and clearing the tent of their kit the team eventually got away at 2:45. It was a cold morning and a lot of people were heading up. The Team made good progress across the dry glacier to the roping up point, but there was a bottle neck on the fixed lines. Once passed them the group overtook a few other teams and even though they were a lot earlier than last time the frying pan was still hot.
they have spent the rest of the day resting and drinking.

10th July 2025 - Camp 2 - 3

The team made their acclimatisations around abc including an ascent of yukina peak. The weather then dictated the plans for moving up to camp 2 and touching camp 3 as snow was forecast for the afternoon of the 8th onwards. The team opted for a rest day in abc before making the challenging journey up to camp 2. Departing at 3am they trekked out across the moraine and dry glacier to the roping up point at 4500m. At first light they made their way to the start of the fixed line and made good time to the top of the Steepening. It was a very hot walk across the glaciated section called the frying pan to camp 2. Liutaurus decided to stay at camp 2 and rest. Jim and phurba reached camp 3 in good time. Stu, Alice and Robert reached the 5800m hump before heading back down to camp.

The team made it back down to abc as the weather started to close in.

Today we said our goodbyes to the team who are returning home, who are now in base camp. Alice will head down to bc on Friday, the remaining team will head back up to camp 2.

8th July 2025 - Photos!

Stu Managed to get some signal and send us some photos from the previous days. Here they are!

7th July 2025 - Acclimatising - ropes and summits

Today they get used to the steepest part of the climb by taking an acclimatisation walk/climb up the steepening and fixed ropes that lead towards Camp 3. Gaining the viewpoint of a small subsidiary summit at 5700m before returning to Camp 2.

6th July 2025 - ABC - Camp 2

Today the team will make their first ascent to Camp 2 with food (5-6kg) and some personal gear. Crossing the flat glacier the team head up the face to the Skovorodka (Frying Pan!). This area is heavily crevassed so the group are roped up to cross this terrain. The route progressively gets steeper until a traverse can be made to Camp 2 which is located on a rocky outcrop to the far right of the glacier at 5300m.

5th July 2025 - Down and preperation

Today after striking camp, the team will descend back down to ABC in time for breakfast where they will spend the rest of the day preparing for the coming push.

4th July 2025 - Acclimtisation

The team ascend a lovely peak close to ABC that gives outstanding views towards Camp 2 and the route beyond to Peak Lenin. This is an important day of acclimatisation as the guides want to ensure the team are ready to move up to Camp 2 with a degree of strength. They will spend the night here.

3rd July 2025 - Advanced Basecamp and Acclimtisation

The Team arrived yesterday afternoon at abc. The day started out really nice, crossing the pass in blue skies and allowing the odd rest in the sun. However the weather eventually closed in, the winds picked up and it started snowing, but thankfully nothing was sticking. From the river crossing it was a bit of a miserable march over the moraine plateau to abc. The Team were welcomed into camp and given lunch and a brew, which was greatfully received.
Today the weather has been glorious and we enjoyed our walk up to 4700m. This afternoon we practiced glacial skills, abseiling and ascending fixed lines.

Stu introduced the card game Skip-Bo last night which was enjoyed by all

Tomorrow we will climb yukina peak and then have a well earned rest day before heading to camp 2

30th June 2025 - Acclimatisation at Base Camp

Today was a day of sorting and walking. After breakfast we had to collect the equipment stored at base camp last year. Once this was brought back to the tents we went for our acclimatisation walk reaching just over 4050m. Despite the forecast of rain at base camp, it's just been cloudy looking south towards the mountain, but clear everywhere else. Usual mountain weather if clearer mornings gave us a nice view of Lenin.

This afternoon for myself and phurba was checking all kit for both Peak Lenin trips. All is now in order and ready for our move to Camp 1 (ABC). Tomorrow we are going to have an extra rest day too give us better acclimatisation before we move up to 4200m.

29th June 2025 - Off to Base camp!

Picked up at 10:15am to go food shopping, a quick blast round the shop and all was done and finished by 11:35. The team then loaded onto the bus for the 6 hour journey to a very comprehensive basecamp. time to relax and finalise everything before starting the main event.

28th June 2025 - Arrival in Osh.

This morning the majority of the team met up and made the flight to Osh from Bishkek. We are just waiting for Niall to arrive on the afternoon flight to make the complete team. As most have been travelling through the night we'll opt for a more sedate evening meal at the hotel rather than heading out into town. Tomorrow we have a departure time of 9:30 - 11am...this is Kyrgyzstan, things will happen but you need to have a relaxed attitude as to when they will happen. We'll first head to the Supermarket to get some supplies and then on to Achik-tash, Peak Lenin base camp.

27th June 2025 - Departing for Osh

Today the team will fly to Kyrgyzstan. They will arrive tomorrow into Bishkek and then take the domestic flight to Osh, where we will make our final preparations before heading to Achik-Tash base camp on the 29th June.