Travel to Anchorage, arriving same day. Airport transfer is provided by the hotel.

Team Meeting at 10 am for an Expedition orientation and equipment check.

We will drive several hours to Talkeetna, where everyone will register with the National Park Service. Weather permitting, we will fly into the Kahiltna Glacier with the Air Taxi. (If we cannot fly we will assist you in arranging accommodation for the night which you will need to pay for). There will be an on-glacier Expedition Orientation that will cover the following topics: Glacier Travel, Crevasse Rescue, Sled Rigging, Rope Management and Camp Site Procedures. Establish Base Camp at 2134m.

Single Carry supplies to Camp 1 (2368m), near the junction with the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. This is a moderate carry of about 9 miles round-trip and is a good shake-down for the upcoming days. Throughout the Expedition we will follow the climb high, sleep low technique, for better acclimatisation, however the altitude difference between Base Camp and Camp 1 is minimal enough to permit us to single-carry this stretch. On the late May and June expeditions, we may be doing our climbing at night to avoid the excessive heat and soft snow conditions on the Lower Glacier.

Haul loads up to Kahiltna Pass. Several options exist for camp sites between 2743m & 3353m, depending upon weather, snow conditions and team strength. This is a moderately difficult carry; 7-9 miles round-trip, with 2-3,000 feet of elevation gain and a return to Camp 1 for the night.

Move everything to Camp 2 – near Kahiltna Pass. Camp is often in the beautiful 3414m basin at the base of Motorcycle Hill.

Back-carry day. This is an active rest day during which we drop back down and pick up the cache.

Haul loads around Windy Corner  (4054m). Steep snow climbing up Motorcycle Hill rewards you with spectacular views. Distance is about 4 miles round trip. Sleds are getting lighter and the air is getting thinner.

Move Camp to 4359m. This is usually a long, hard day. Weather and team strength will determine the placement of Camp 3 - however the goal is the well equipped 14,200' camp. Fun climbing with crampons and ice axe gets you around Windy Corner where the upper Mountain comes into view.

Back-carry day. The team will descend from 14,200' to the Windy Corner cache and bring everything up to 4359m.

Climb up the headwall to the ridge. Cache supplies and return to 4359m. Climbing up the headwall (fixed line from 4724m to 4907m) with a heavy pack is one of the most strenuous days of the trip, because of the steep terrain, heavy pack and thinning air.

Rest day. It is often prudent to take a rest/acclimatisation day prior to moving up to High Camp.

Move to High Camp. Weather and team strength will again determine this decision. While there is a camp site at 4907m, it is very exposed, so we usually push for the 5243m site which is more secure and the better choice for Camp.

Rest day. Moving to 5243m and getting High Camp established can be a huge day, so we usually take a rest day before attempting the summit.

If the weather is favourable, we'll push for the summit. However if the weather is not good it is important to be patient! We will only try for the Summit when the weather is good, meaning mostly clear and calm. The round trip climb will take eight to twelve hours or more. Usually you will depart camp early (7-9 am), climb up to Denali Pass (5486m) and follow the route past Arch Deacon's Tower and the Football Field to the slopes leading to the Summit Ridge. On this spectacular ridge you can often see down into the Ruth Glacier and view peaks such as the Moose's Tooth, Mt Huntington and more. If the weather is still good, you will always remember this view!!!

The descent from High Camp will take from one to two days, depending on the team's strength and motivation to get home. Weather dictates when we will fly out to Talkeetna for food and showers. Not much beats a steak and salad at the West Rib Tavern after working hard on Denali!

Return to Anchorage. As there is the potential for the trip to finish early the accommodation at the end of the trip is not included in the price as it is not known where you will stay. The in country agent will help with sorting accommodation for you on your return from the mountain.

Return international flight.