Island Peak is a compact expedition for those who want to attempt a classic Himalayan peak in just over two weeks without going to Everest Base Camp. Previous use of crampons is essential as we will not have time to provide instruction. We follow the main Everest trail through the many tiny villages with their Buddhist monasteries and unique mountain culture. The views grow more spectacular as we progress up the Dudh Kosi River to Namche Bazaar, the gateway to the Khumbu region and then up through Thyangboche where you are rewarded with spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Mount Everest and Lhotse before we finally branch off to Island Peak. The summit day of Island Peak involves a comfortable scramble, an intriguing rock ridge and then onto a wonderful glacier. Onwards, a steep snow headwall leads to a classic summit ridge. From here you are afforded fabulous views of many Himalayan giants, including the immense face of Lhotse, the elegant pyramid of Ama Dablam, the ragged summit of Nuptse and beyond to Baruntse and Makalu.
Why climb with Adventure Peaks
- Use of a high camp at 5,500m reducing summit day to an attainable ascent (most teams reduce costs by going from BC)
- British Expedition Leader for groups of +4 (local English Speaking Leader for less)
- No load carrying
- 2 days set aside for a summit attempt
- All permit fees included in the price
- 15% discount off the RRP on equipment and clothing purchased at the Adventure Peaks shop and online
Itinerary
Click on the image to view a larger version of the map.
Day 1: International flights.
Day 2: Arrive in Kathmandu early evening. Transfer to hotel close to the famous, bustling Thamel district of Kathmandu (H,B)
Day 3: Fly to Lukla (2800m) before a gentle walk to Phakding (2610m). A spectacular short internal flight takes us to this tiny airstrip town and the gateway to the Sherpa Kingdom. After lunch we can do the short walk along the typically stony path that descends from the forested terraces of Lukla. This takes us right into the Dudh Kosi valley and the brightly painted lodges of Phakding. From here there are stunning views of Kusum Kanguru’s North Face (6367m). (T,B,L,D)
Day 4: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m). We trek into the Sherpa capital and heart of the Khumbu. You will now be becoming familiar with local protocol for passing chortens, mani stones, yaks, spinning prayer wheels etc and enjoying the hustle and bustle of trekking and everyday life that exists on the ‘Everest Trail’. At Monjo we enter Sagarmartha National Park and can visit the small visitor centre there. Four hours duration. (T,B,L,D)
Day 5: Acclimatisation/Rest Day in Namche Bazaar. It is important to have a couple of nights and a rest day in Namche before proceeding any higher. You can spend the day taking short walks up to Thami or Khumjung, visiting the Everest, Ama Dablam and Pumori viewpoints or just relaxing and exploring the narrow streets of this busy Sherpa capital. (T,B,L,D)
Day 6: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3900m) or to Deboche (3820m). Heading north east up the side of the Dudh Kosi, we climb steeply out of Namche, turn the corner and we are immediately presented with superb views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. Tengboche and its stunning monastery are located on the obvious spur below Thamseku but it requires a steep descent to the river and a long steady pull back up. Five hours duration. (T,B,L,D)
Day 7: Tengboche/Deboche to Dingboche (4358m). A good day walking through beautiful rhododendron trees that gradually takes us back to the river and into Pangboche, a great viewpoint for Ama Dablam. On leaving the village we turn up the Imja valley to reach the lovely and picturesque village of Dingboche. Seven hours duration. (T,B,L,D)
Day 8: Acclimatisation/Rest day at Dingboche. An acclimatisation day spent absorbing the views around camp and relaxing. Optional short trek to Pheriche and its hospital run by the Himalayan Rescue Association. They run regular and informative talks on acclimatisation and high altitude medicine. (T,B,L,D)
Day 9: Dingboche to Chukung. Today is dominated by the view of Island Peak at the head of the valley and by the ever changing vista of Ama Dablam’s northern aspect to your right. Ascent of Chukung Ri. The small village of Chukung is hidden in the moraine of the Lhotse & Nuptse glaciers until just before you arrive. (T,B,L,D)
Day 10: Chukung to Island Peak Base Camp. Another easy day brings you to the narrow base camp below the south ridge of Island Peak. (C,B,L,D)
Day 11 Acclimatisation, move to High Camp or Summit day. An early start from Base Camp (or high camp) should see us scrambling up onto the glacier as the sun rises. An obvious route weaves its way through the crevasses until a steep climb on fixed lines leads to the awe-inspiring summit ridge with it’s views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse. (C,B,L,D). Descend to Chhukhang or Pangboche.
Day 12 Spare Summit day
Day 13: Descend to Pangboche.or Namche (T,B,L,D)
Day 14: Pangboche to Namche Bazaar. (T,B,L,D)
Day 15: Namche Bazaar to Lukla. (T,B,L,D)
Day 16: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu. Back to the comforts of our hotel in Thamel and the enjoyable hustle and bustle. This is a good time to buy souvenirs and try your hand at haggling with the local shopkeepers. Time to celebrate. (H,B). Possible evening flight.
Day 17: If not flown yesterday, return flight from Kathmandu, some flights arriving back next day.
Island Peak kit list
This is not a definitive list and is designed to be used in conjunction with our kit list we will send to you in your dossier. We also have many alternatives for both Men and Women so if you have any questions please do get in touch
Recommended Equipment for Island Peak
Client discount
Adventure Peaks provides 15% discount off any equipment purchased online or from our Ambleside shop if you have booked (and paid a deposit) on one of our expeditions or courses*.
We offer our equipment hire service to both clients and non-clients, although Adventure Peaks clients receive a further discount.
*Excludes books/maps and electrical equipment.
It is vitally important that you have adequate travel insurance for your trip with Adventure Peaks. We recognise the complexity and variety of choice in the insurance market and know that many of you either have your own preferred insurer or have annual multi trip cover in place already. If this is the case, please ensure that your insurer is aware of your Adventure Peaks itinerary and can agree to cover the activities being undertaken.
Adventure Peaks do not provide any advice on travel insurance, although it is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have travel insurance which covers the activities which you are likely to be undertaking on your holiday. Cover must include emergency medical, helicopter evacuation, repatriation and rescue expenses.
It is strongly recommended that suitable cancellation insurance is purchased at the time of booking as all deposits are non-refundable and non-transferable.
Suggested insurance companies include:
Expeditions or Treks
Treks only:
Fred –
Zack is an outstanding group leader combining experience, technical ability and group interpersonal skills to a very high standard indeed. I rate him as excellent. I appreciate Zacks efforts to get me a single room in the teahouse which worked every night except one. Similarly the he went beyond the call of duty to attend to the injury I sustained on the headwall.
Anonymous –
The entire trip was an amazing experience even though I didn’t make it to the summit. The local agent was very helpful in organising the helicopter and looking after me and my husband when we returned to Kathmandu. Your guide was brilliant, very knowledgeable.
Alistair G –
Thanks for organising such a wonderful expedition. I will be honest and say I was quite unsure of what to expect, but it surpassed all my expectations. Zack and the local guys deserve a massive pat on the back for doing such as simply excellent job. Please ensure they get the recognition and praise they deserve. I would use adventure peaks again it was the first one I found on the Internet and the website is easy-to-use and had a good overview.
Bob –
The trip was great, just what I thought it would be up till I got ill… Even then I stayed positive, life is an adventure and you take the rough with the smooth and try to enjoy it then there is no disappointment, just a great adventure to talk about!
Gavin –
Highlight was summit day. Leaving from high camp, where others go from base camp, was an advantage as this got us ahead of the other climbers. View from the top were stunning.