Khan Tengri

Rated 4.00 out of 5 based on 3 customer ratings
(3 customer reviews)

Altitude 7010m, Grade 4D

Khan Tengri is one of the world’s most beautiful peaks in the world and the jewel of the Tien Shan. Can be combined with the Tien Shan Unclimbed expedition.

Description

Khan Tengri is a challenging expedition follows in the footsteps of seven previously successful trips to this  comparatively undiscovered region. For those with a little more time, the ascent of Khan Tengri can be combined with our exciting unclimbed peaks expedition, offering a very enjoyable and rewarding period of acclimatisation.

At 7010m, Khan Tengri is without doubt the most splendid of summits amongst the jagged peaks of the Tien Shan. With its elegant ridges and superb pyramidal summit, it is also regarded as one of the most beautiful peaks in the world, alongside the stunning Alpamayo, Ama Dablam and the Matterhorn.

Base Camp will be established at 4000m on the North Inylchek Glacier, the world’s third longest at 62km. The views from here are quite breathtaking and provide a superb backdrop whilst enjoying a welcome drink of tea and relaxing, before we head for Camp 1 at 4600m and Camp 2 at 5500m. We then ascend the stunning Peak Chapayev (6200m), with its momentous views of our summit objective, and onto the Col just below the West Ridge at 5900m. To improve our chances of success on Khan Tengri, an additional camp may be established at 6300m. Climbing up to Scottish grade 3, Alpine D.

Khan Tengri can be combined with our Tien Shan Unclimbed expedition.

Trip dossier

Khan Tengri

  • Estimated International flights from London (Flight inclusive package)
  • A British expedition team leader.
  • Travel to and from UK airport (unless otherwise specified).
  • Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the expedition.
  • Food, fuel and cooking equipment whilst on the mountain.
  • Hotel accommodation in Bishkek on a Bed & Breakfast basis.
  • All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb.
  • Medical safety equipment and supplies.
  • Communication equipment (each member on a Grade 3B or above are normally provided with a radio whilst on the mountain and the team is often supported with a Satellite Telephone and e-mail facilities on extended expeditions at Base Camp).
  • 90 – 120 litre kit bag for expedition members for UK based clients. A logoed top will be substituted for all clients residing outside of the UK and for returning clients.
  • 15% off the RRP on clothing and equipment purchases from Adventure Peaks shop
  • Personal climbing clothes and equipment. 
  • Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations. 
  • Drinks and hotel or guest house meals unless specified. 
  • Personal medical supplies.
  • Personal use of communication equipment. 
  • Excess baggage. 
  • Costs associated with an expedition finishing early. 
  • Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early. 
  • Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances.

Day 1 Arrive in Bishkek/Almaty
Day 2 Transfer to Karakol
Day 3 Drive to Maidaadir
Day 4 Helicopter to glacier
Day 5-19 Climbing period
Day 20 Helicopter to Maidaadir, transfer to Karakol
Day 21 Spare day in case of bad weather
Day 22 Transfer to Bishkek/Almaty
Day 23 Return international flight

It is vitally important that you have adequate travel insurance for your trip with Adventure Peaks. We recognise the complexity and variety of choice in the insurance market and know that many of you either have your own preferred insurer or have annual multi trip cover in place already. If this is the case, please ensure that your insurer is aware of your Adventure Peaks itinerary and can agree to cover the activities being undertaken.

Adventure Peaks do not provide any advice on travel insurance, although it is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have travel insurance which covers the activities which you are likely to be undertaking on your holiday. Cover must include emergency medical, helicopter evacuation, repatriation and rescue expenses.

It is strongly recommended that suitable cancellation insurance is purchased at the time of booking as all deposits are non-refundable and non-transferable.

Suggested insurance companies include:

Expeditions or Treks

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3 reviews for Khan Tengri

  1. Rated 4 out of 5

    Andrew

    Mountain days were awesome, with challenging terrain and some great mixed climbing on a stunning route. Travelling through Kyrgyzstan by road with overnight stops in places like Karakol is always a pleasure.

  2. Rated 4 out of 5

    Andrew (verified owner)

    This was my sixth expedition with AP and the most gratifying climbing experience to date. Itinerary provides a broad insight into this spectacular country, from a road trip through western Kyrgyzstan along the northern shore of Lake Issyk-kul, overnight stays in Kyrgyz villages, a stunning helicopter approach into base camp and ample time on the mountain. The route on mixed terrain via Chapeyev is challenging but exhilarating and provides an intense yet thoroughly enjoyable experience. The mountain is relatively quiet compared to similar peaks, however support from base camp is excellent.

  3. Rated 4 out of 5

    Andrew

    Great destinations, consistent quality, style of expedition that suits me…new ‘Pack and Go’ de-hy food is awesome, particularly veggie meals. Good job. This was my seventh trip with AP and they keep getting better. This is a fantastic destination and a great mountain with a real mix of terrain which provides some challenging but rewarding mountaineering.

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Previous trip reports from Khan Tengri

khan-tengri31 Khan Tengri 21 July 18 - 9th August Success for the team on Khan Tengri!
muztagh-ata06 Guaranteed Summer Expeditions - Inspired by the sunshine to make plans for summer? We have a host of trips guaranteed to run. Find your next trip here.
khan-tengri-paddy-cave Khan Tengri 22nd July 2017 - 2nd August The team have carried their gear to camp 2 they will now move up to sleep at camp 2 tomorrow and then they hope to summit on Chapayev at 6200m.
7000m Peak Choosing a 7000m Peak - For many people, choosing to climb a 7000m peak is the next big step up, so how do you make sure you choose the right one? We've put together a guide to help you decide.
khan-tengri11 Khan Tengri Expedition July ’16 - 5th August The team have had another big dump of snow and remain at base camp. It looks as though the weather will clear over the next couple of days so we will wait to here from the team on the next moves.
unnamed (7) Unclimbed Peaks and Khan Tengri 19th July 2014 - 27th July: Chris sent a brief message today to let us know that the team are all well and have summitted 5 new peaks so far! Well done to you all!
image-1 Unclimbed Peaks and Khan Tengri -

Leader and Updates: Francis Blunt

16th August:Martin rang from the Alpine Tien Shan group - both groups are all having a lazy day by Lake Issykul, enjoying themselves and preparing for the trek out, back down to Bishkek and home.

Tien Shan Peaks and Khan Tengri Expedition News -

8th August: Paul has called in with an update. The weather conditions have unfortunately not been good for the last few days, and the group has had to make the difficult decision not to attempt Khan Tengri. There were discussions of perhaps trying an alternate peak such as Karly Tau or additional skills training but in the end the team decided to choose other options.

Thomas and Chris have opted for early flights home, Vicky and Aisling are having a few 'Spa' days in Bishkek, Robert is staying in the Karakol area trekking and Paul, Max, Jean and David are going to the Ala Archa area climbing for the next few days.

Khan Tengri And Unclimbed Peaks Expedition News 23rd July 2011 -

Leader: Paddy Cave & Local Guide

Team: Claire S, Rob S, Richard J, Ian H, Kate H, Stuart L, Nigel V, Wyn M, David F, Laurent B, Radim B, Henrik O.

16th Aug - Paddy called in today from Karakol. The team are fine, although had a problem with the sat phone. They are now recovering from their adventure on Khan Tengri. Despite almost a metre of snow at Camp 2, Paddy, Laurent and Henrik reached the summit of Khan Tengri on the 14th August - a 1200m summit day. David reached the summit of Chapayev and stopped at Camp 3. Radim decided to descend from Camp 2 after 3 days of heavy snow. Well done to all and we wish them a safe journey back home.

 


Tien Shan Peaks & Khan Tengri Expedition News 18th July 2009 -

 

Tien Shan Peaks & Khan Tengri Expedition News 18th July 2009.

The Team Leaders :  Phil Thomas, Phil Coates

The Team:  Samuel Brooks Richard Glasgow

Robin Partington Neil Peck

Anne Foley Deborah Connor

Paul Marron Michel Koch

Mike Foley Ralph Roddenhof

Andre Gie

 

How many people

Deposits

The Initial Deposits for this booking will be :£400 per Person


Land Only Availability Days Price Book
17th Jul 2020 - 9th Aug 2020
24
With UK Flight dates Availability Days Price Book
16th Jul 2020 - 9th Aug 2020
25