Khan Tengri is a challenging expedition follows in the footsteps of seven previously successful trips to this comparatively undiscovered region.
At 7010m, Khan Tengri is without doubt the most splendid of summits amongst the jagged peaks of the Tien Shan. With its elegant ridges and superb pyramidal summit, it is also regarded as one of the most beautiful peaks in the world, alongside the stunning Alpamayo, Ama Dablam and the Matterhorn.
Base Camp will be established at 4000m on the North Inylchek Glacier, the world’s third longest at 62km. The views from here are quite breathtaking and provide a superb backdrop whilst enjoying a welcome drink of tea and relaxing, before we head for Camp 1 at 4600m and Camp 2 at 5500m. We then ascend the stunning North Summit of Peak Chapayev (6150m), with its momentous views of our summit objective, and onto the Col just below the West Ridge at 5900m. To improve our chances of success on Khan Tengri, an additional camp may be established at 6300m. Climbing up to Scottish grade 3, Alpine D.
Khan Tengri can be combined with our Kyrgyz Unclimbed expedition.