Peak Lenin can be a tough and physically demanding mountain but we have achieved summit success on four previous expeditions due to our unique itinerary that includes a camp 4 at 6400m to shorten the summit day by at least 2-3 hours to less than eight hours compared to other operators (avoiding the normal 10-13 hr. climb from Camp 3). We have also included an additional 2 days to allow up to six summit days to cope with difficult weather! High altitude porters carry all group equipment and the guiding ratio is increased to 1:3 giving greater flexibility on summit day to more easily match your speed of movement and fitness level.
You may also wish to consider Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105m), in neighbouring Tajikistan, which we have found to be less physically demanding allowing us to maintain a 100% expedition success level.
Peak Lenin at 7134m is the third highest mountain in the former Soviet Union and is situated in the Pamirs range of Kyrgyzstan that borders with China and Tajikistan . The climb is non-technical and truly Himalayan by proportion and it is one of only five 7000m peaks in the former USSR. The others include Ismoil Somoni (Peak Communism, 7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan region of Kyrgyzstan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards.
Base Camp is quite idyllic, situated on a raised meadow of Alpine flowers between two steep river valleys. From Base Camp we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass to the moraine of the Lenin Glacier which is ascended to reach camp 1(ABC) at 4200m. We aim to establish three further camps, crossing the subsidiary peak Razdelny. It is from here the views really open up towards Ismoil Somoni and the Hindu Kush. The summit is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Muztagh Ata and Kongur in China and to the west, the Karakoram.
Why climb with Adventure Peaks
- Four previously successful expeditions, summiting every year with the exception of 2015 when the weather forced our teams to abandon summit attempts
- Extra Camp (Camp 4) at 6,400m which will greatly increasing your chance of success
- High Guiding ratio 1:3
- High-altitude porters carry group equipment (tents, stoves and fuel)
- 6 days set aside for a summit attempt
- British Expedition Leader
Day 1 – International flight
Day 2 – Arrive in Osh or you may find it easier to overnight in Bishkek and then take a domestic flight Bishkek to Osh. Arrive in the morning with time to explore the sights, bazaars and do our shopping for mountain snacks. (H, B)
Day 3 – Transfer to Achik-Tash base camp (3700m)
We transfer from Osh to base camp via the Sary-Magol/ Alai valley a journey of about 5 hrs (C, B, L, D)
Day 4 – Acclimatisation on Petrovskogo Peak
To aid our acclimatisation we climb on Petrovskogo Peak, a mountain close to base camp, and also use this day to prepare our gear to be transported by mules up to ABC. Camp 1 (C, B, L, D)
Day 5 – BC – Camp 1
From BC we walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (Wild Onion Meadow). As the plateau ends we follow the small steep path that climbs towards the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4100m). We then descend again via the moraine to the right where the start of the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins. A further 5kms walking brings us to ABC (Camp 1) at a height of 4400m. 6-8 hours. (C, B, L, D)
Day 6 – A low activity day at Base Camp to aid acclimatisation and recap on glacial travel and crevasse rescue skills. (C, B, L, D)
Day 7 –
Acclimatisation day. We ascend a lovely peak close to ABC that gives outstanding views towards Camp 2 and the route beyond to Peak Lenin. This is an important day of acclimatisation as we want to ensure you are ready to move up to Camp 2 with a degree of strength and efficiency as the route is crevassed and can also be prone to avalanche after heavy snow falls.
Day 8 – Today after striking camp, we descend back down to ABC in time for lunch 2-3hrs.
Day 9 – Final preparation and rest day before moving up the mountain.
Day 10 – Camp 1 (ABC) – Camp 2
Today we make our first ascent to Camp 2 with food (5-6kg)and some personal gear. Porters will move group equipment. Crossing the flat glacier we head up the face to the Skovorodka (Frying Pan!). This area is heavily crevassed so the group will be roped up to cross this terrain. The route progressively gets steeper until a traverse can be made to Camp 2 which is located on a rocky outcrop to the far right of the glacier at 5300m. 6-8 hours.
Day 11 – Acclimatisation
Today we get used to the steepest part of the climb by taking an acclimatisation walk/climb up the steepening and fixed ropes that lead towards Camp 3. We gain the viewpoint of a small subsidiary summit at 5700m before returning to Camp 2.
Day 12 – Ascend to Camp 3
Today we use our many years of experience (five successful expeditions) on Peak Lenin. We ascend again passing yesterdays high point to reach Mt Razdelnaya where we established our camp 3 and drop off food at 6100m before descending back to ABC 6-8 hours.
Days 13 & 14 – Rest Days at ABC
Day 15 – Ascend to Camp 2
Day 16 – Ascend to Camp 3
Day 17 – Move to Camp 4
Very few teams establish this camp but it is the biggest factor in summit success as it shortens the summit day by at least two hours (from the normal Camp 3 it is a minimum of 8hrs to the summit and a long haul back). Camp 4 (6400m) is placed on a plateau that is quite exposed to the wind and therefore it is established according to the weather forecast but it does gives us a significant advantage over most groups who follow a traditional series of 3 camps and must climb this, the toughest section, in darkness.
Day 18 – Summit Day
From Camp 4 we cross the plateau to climb a short steep snow slope of about 40 degrees which is normally fixed; this is followed by another rocky section which eventually leads to a pre-summit plateau. The route then drops before a final rise to the true summit at 7134m. Ultimately it is a long summit day 8-10 hours from our Camp 4 or 10 – 15 hours from Camp 3.
Days 19-21 – Reserve summit Days
Day 22 – Return to Camp 1 (ABC) Clearing the mountain as we go, we head back down to base camp.
Day 23 Return to BC, Transfer to Osh. (H, B)
Days 24-25 – Return International flight
While we will make every effort to adhere to the above itinerary, changes may occur due to due to weather, client needs or other reasons beyond our control. You should join this expedition only with a flexible approach.
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