Tien Shan Climber

Altitude 6150m, Grade 3C

Peak Chapayev a classic snow climb in the Tien Shan with stunning views of Khan Tengri.

One of our best Expeditions, Director, David Pritt, introduced the Tien Shan Climber expedition to bring this most spectacular and unspoilt region into the reach of the less experienced mountaineer.  The mountains in this remote area of Asia are Himalayan in stature, with the highest peak reaching 7443m.  The Tien Shan peaks form the rigid backbone of Kyrgyzstan, wedged between China and Kazakhstan.

Our exhilarating journey to Base Camp is initially taken by helicopter up the Inylchek Glacier.  At close proximity, you will fly through a vast panorama of classical glaciated and jagged peaks. Our initial period of acclimatisation will be spent practicing glacial and fixed roped skills overlooked by the most northerly 7000m peaks in the world. We acclimatise on Karly Tau Peak 5450m in readiness to attempt the North summit of Peak Chapayev (6150m), our main objective. We share the route with those attempting to summit the majestic Khan Tengri 7010m.  The ascent involves establishing two camps en route, but our approach will be richly rewarded with a vista of tremendous proportions.  With our ambition achieved, we can gaze across to the jewel of the Tien Shan itself, Khan Tengri. Its elegant ridges and pyramidal peak elevates its beauty to that of the distinguished profiles of Ama Dablam and the Matterhorn as some of the most beautiful peaks in the world.

The mountaineering on Chapeyev does include steep snow slopes, an exposed snow arete close to Scottish Grade I /II and some steep mixed climbing (grade II) over rock, snow and ice to reach the summit. A less technical expedition in this region is our Alpine Tien Shan Expedition which just climbs Karly Tau Peak 5450m.

Trip dossier

Tien Shan Climber

Day 1-2: International Flight to Bishkek. Early morning arrival in Bishkek, rest and recoup. Final preparations, food purchases and final sorting of equipment (H,B).

Day 3: Morning transfer to Karakol (H,B)

Day 4: Early morning Transfer to the heliport at Maidadir, by six wheel vehicle, a sense of remoteness will begin to set in. Helicopter  to Base Camp at 3900m, a spectacular journey up the North Inylchek glacier. Establish base camp beneath Khan Tengri and Chapayev (C,B,L,D).

Day 5-6: Acclimatisation and Glacial Skills Training; fixed rope techniques. (C,B,L,D)

Day 7-12: Ascent of Karly Tau Peak 5540m (C,B,L,D)

Day 7: Carry to Camp 1 (C,B,L,D)

Day 8: Acclimatisation to 4600m (C,B,L,D)

Day 9: Summit Day (C,B,L,D)

Day 10-11: Spare Summit Day (C,B,L,D)

Day 12: Return to BC (C,B,L,D)

Day 13: Rest day (C,B,L,D)

Day 14: Move to Camp 1 on Chapeyev (C,B,L,D)

Day 15: Move to camp 2 (C,B,L,D)

Day 16: Summit Chapeyev (C,B,L,D)

Day 17: Spare Summit Day (C,B,L,D)

Day 18: Return to BC (C,B,L,D)

Day 19-20: Helicopter and return to Karakol or Bishkek visiting Issyk-Kul Lake to relax and enjoy the warm water and sun! (H,B).

Day 21: Return International flight and arrival in UK.

  • ATOL financial protection when booked flight inclusive.
  • Estimated International Flights from London (flight inclusive price)   
  • A Western expedition team leader.
  • Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the expedition.
  • Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Food, fuel and cooking equipment whilst on the mountain.
  • Two nights hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Karakol on a Bed & Breakfast basis.
  • All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb.
  • Medical safety equipment and supplies.
  • Communication equipment (VHF radios whilst on the mountain, Satellite Telephone).
  • 100 – 120 litre kit bag for expedition members for UK based clients. A logoed top will be substituted for all clients residing outside of the UK and for returning clients
  • 24 hour back up and support from UK staff
  • 15% off the RRP on clothing and equipment purchased from Adventure Peaks shop
  • Travel to and from UK airport
  • Personal climbing clothes and equipment.
  • Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations.
  • Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights NOT booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Drinks and hotel or guest house meals, unless specified.
  • Personal medical supplies
  • Personal use of communication equipment.
  • Excess baggage.
  • Tips for porters and local guides.
  • Costs associated with an expedition finishing early.
  • Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early.
  • Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances.

It is vitally important that you have adequate travel insurance for your trip with Adventure Peaks. We recognise the complexity and variety of choice in the insurance market and know that many of you either have your own preferred insurer or have annual multi trip cover in place already. If this is the case, please ensure that your insurer is aware of your Adventure Peaks itinerary and can agree to cover the activities being undertaken.

Adventure Peaks do not provide any advice on travel insurance, although it is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have travel insurance which covers the activities which you are likely to be undertaking on your holiday. Cover must include emergency medical, helicopter evacuation, repatriation and rescue expenses.

It is strongly recommended that suitable cancellation insurance is purchased at the time of booking as all deposits are non-refundable and non-transferable.

Suggested insurance companies include:

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The Initial Deposits for this booking will be :£400 per Person

Land Only Availability Days Price Book
16th Jul 2023 - 4th Aug 2023
With UK Flight dates Availability Days Price Book
15th Jul 2023 - 4th Aug 2023