Tien Shan Unclimbed Peaks & Khan Tengri Expedition News July 2006


Tien Shan Unclimbed Peaks & Khan Tengri Expedition News July 2006.Tien Shan Unclimbed & Khan Tengri

The Team Leader : Dave Pritt

David Flux

Christopher Astill

Andrew Gillespie

Mark Currey

Kaj Johansson

Carrie Gibson

Kjell Haugualdstad

Addvar Njaa

Final UpdateThe team spent their first night on the Col in poor to bad weather,in the morning David and Mark decided to escape back over Chapeyev whilst the weather was slightly calmer.

Dave, Carrie and Kaj stayed for a further three nights waiting for a break in the weather, they were unfortunately only to be rewarded with a three day storm, strong winds and lots of snow. On the 17th, a bitterly cold morning, they finally had to give up any thoughts of the summit and extract themselves.

The team left base camp on the 19th A fantastic experience was had by all the team, a number of new routes and peaks climbed on the Tien Shan Unclimbed section, Chapeyev summited and then for some a brave and atmospheric attempt on Khan Tengri. Without doubt this is one of the best areas in the world to visit. Most of the team are now planning their next trip; some to Baruntse others Denali!

12/08/06 – 3pm GMT:The team made a successful ascent of Chapeyev (6200m). Dave Pritt, Carrie, David, Andrew, Mark and Kaj have continued the traverse to descend down to the col (5900m)ready to make an attempt on Khan Tengri. Having a descent of this kind makes the route quite a commitment as the main means of escape means you have to re-ascend Chapeyev in good or bad weather

10/08/06 – 3pm GMT:The team made good progress having acclimatised well during the Tien Shan Unclimbed section of the expedition. They have spent nights at camp 1(4800m) and camp 2 (5400m) and will now descend back down to base camp for rest having stocked camp 2 with supplies for their attempt on Khan Tengri. The next stage will be to traverse Chapeyev(6200m) to the Col on Khan Tengri at 5900m (camp 3).

08/08/06 – 6pm GMT:The team have arrived at Khan Tengri Base Camp, they have made an acclimatiser walk to the first camp, after a rest day they will move up to camp 1.

03/08/06 – 5pm GMT:After being helicoptered into the climbing area the team have spent the last 10 days attempting new routes and bagging some new peaks between 4000-5500m in a previously unclimbed area of the Tien Shan in the Kyrgyz Republic. All the team are well and will be helicoptered over to Khan Tengri Base Camp on 06/08/06.


Dave Pritt

About Dave Pritt

Dave Pritt is the Director of Adventure Peaks. With over 30 years of mountaineering feats, he is a very experienced high altitude mountaineer who has led expeditions to K2, Broad Peak and five Everest expeditions. Dave has completed the 7 summits, led an expedition to Ski the South Pole Last Degree, Satopanth in India and in 2007 he guided Ian McKeever to break the world record for the seven summits in 156 days. He is lucky enough to have climbed on the majority of our advertised peaks, but the Tien Shan remains his favourite destination.


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