Trip Report - Tent Peak & Annapurna Sanctuary 2016

READ MORE ABOUT ANNAPURNA SANCTUARY & TENT PEAK EXPEDITIONS HERE

My team of 9 all arrived as planned into Kathmandu, albeit on various different airlines and at different times, so organising a briefing and a welcome meal was my first challenge, as well as separating technical kit from our trekking kit, as that was travelling ahead of us by a different route.

That said, it all went smoothly, and we were soon getting to know each other in the Fire and Ice pizzeria, where we chatted excitedly about the trek ahead.

The next morning was the internal flight to Pokhara, and we were happy to be leaving the dust and noise of Kathmandu for the relative tranquillity of the lakeside town. The only problem was that our bags didn’t follow, so we had rather more time to enjoy it than we planned! Eventually they did arrive, but it was clear that we would not be able to make the short trek to Tirkendunga and our first night in a tea house before dark, so some 4x4s were hired from Birethanti.

The track was extremely rough, and the tiny vehicles, capable though they were, had their work cut out negotiating the rocks and potholes.  They bumped and ground their way up the steep inclines, and some enterprising youngsters even managed to jump on the rear and hitch a ride….I am quite sure we were just ever so slightly over the manufacturer’s recommended payload by then! Sure enough, we hit a particularly rough section, and the tyre burst. No worries, though, it was only a 20 minute walk by head torch, and we were soon tucking into our first hearty meal.

A theme throughout the trek was the excellent and varied quality of the food. Gone is the incessant dhal bhat, although it is available of course, (and usually chosen by the local staff). There is pizza, pasta, copious egg dishes and the lovely Gurung bread, as well as curries and noodles. Extraordinary, given the remote nature of the trail, and the fact everything is carried up.

Our route took us via Ghorepani and the famous Poon Hill view point for a beautiful sunrise. OK, it is more than a little touristy, but at 3200m, it is great for acclimatisation, and is still quite spectacular, with Dhaulagiri to the west, and the constant and ever-changing views of Machhapuchhare, or Fish Tail Peak, to the east. From then on it is an undulating route of steep stone staircases, passing through verdant valleys with a mix of bamboo thickets, maize and rice terraces and often topped with the most fragrant of honeycombs, high on the rock faces. The habitation is much sparser after Chomrong, and from then on, everything is geared up to provide for the trekker. The donkey trains provide the heavy-goods haulage of gas canisters and the like, but much of the work is done by man, and it is most sobering to see the people steadily making their way up the steep trail with their heavy loads – Respect!

Our schedule was conservative, and geared to ensure good acclimatisation, and it worked a treat. It was really relaxing in the afternoons to just read and chill, and also negated a need for a rest day, so we made the Annapurna Sanctuary and Base Camp all fit and well. Here 98% of folks turn back down, their trek over. For us, we had only just begun really! The great cirque of Hiunchuli, Annapurna Fang, Annapurna South and Fluted peak was impressive, especially with the regular avalanches tumbling off its steep sides.

The descent down to the very rubbly glacier was steep and loose, and we had to be careful to avoid loose rock. Once we were on it, it was just a case of picking your way through the jumble of rocks to the other side. You cannot just cross to the site of the Tharpu Chuli base camp now, as the glacier has receded such that a 4 hour walk is necessary upstream, and then double back as you ascend back out of it. It’s not easy to follow, and would be grim in the mist – luckily, we had excellent weather throughout the trip.

After a night at 4200m at base camp, we ascended through very Scottish-like terrain of steep, exposed paths and a delightful moraine ridge to the high camp at 5050m. From here we had a good view of the glacier we were to cross and the summit ridge. A 3am departure saw us scrambling up the loose glaciated rocks to access the glacier proper, and by first light, we were roped and negotiating the easy-angled and relatively crevasse-free approach. Here, Dave decided he had had enough, and Gildyin, one of our climbing Sherpas, escorted him back to the rocks where he was met by a trekking guide as per our contingency plan.

The rest of us continued to the steep head wall which led to the main summit ridge. The angle was 40-55 degrees, and it felt quite strenuous on the fixed lines as we pulled up the 150m+, but at least it warmed us up! The broad col was welcome, and we had a breather there in the bright sun, before roping up again to access the final section of the summit ridge. From here, we again had fixed ropes, which were welcome given the two hidden bergschrunds which we had to negotiate.

The last section was a joy, the ridge narrow but secure, with wonderful views all round. Several of the party had been suffering with colds, and they had doubted their ability to make it, so it was with some sense of satisfaction that we congratulated each other at the summit. Unfortunately, it was too cramped for a group shot, but we all took lots of pictures independently! The descent was a straightforward abseil, and once over the ‘schrunds, a long abseil back to the glacier. This did take some time, as we had to watch for rock fall, but before long we were sipping hot orange juice at the glacier edge, kindly brought up by Moti our trekking sirdar.

All that was left then was the descent down to base camp, which was not inconsiderable given the metres to descend. Indeed, Irina felt it was too much, and she and I spent an impromptu night at the high camp before descending at first light and re-joining the group for our walk out down across the glacier and to Deurali at 3200m. The oxygen was most welcome!

After that, it was the gradual walk down and out of the valley. I think what is lovely about this trek is even when you feel you have achieved your objectives, and seen a lot of what the Gurung area has to offer, there is always something else around the corner – the man ploughing and trying to control a wayward yak, but on his mobile phone! The beautifully presented school children set against their humble backgrounds. The porter in his traditional dress, but resplendent in his bright blue wellies that a child might wear, bought from his tip money. Priceless.

A great trip, a fantastic group, wonderful memories, and thanks to Moti, Sujan, Anil and Sonam and their excellent teams for organising it all without ever losing their smiles!

John

WANT TO JOIN A FUTURE EXPEDITION? SEE DATES FOR ANNAPURNA SANCTUARY & TENT PEAK EXPEDITIONS HERE