Alpine Expedition Training - Tien Shan

Alpine Expedition Training - Tien Shan


From £2,700
Altitude 4,800m Grade: Introductory
14 Days

The beautiful Ak-Sai glacier lies in the Ala Archa National Park, a protected alpine area in the Tien Shan Mountains of Kyrgyzstan . You will acclimatise whilst undergoing training in: ice axe and crampons, glacial travel, crevasse rescue, roping up and movement over glaciated alpine terrain, rock climbing and belaying.

This course of alpine training is set in a magnificent and unspoilt area of Kyrgyzstan far away from the crowded European Alps. The beautiful Ak-Sai glacier lies in the Ala Archa National Park, a protected alpine area in the Tien Shan Mountains of Kyrgyzstan . You will acclimatise whilst undergoing training in: ice axe and crampons, glacial travel, crevasse rescue, roping up and movement over glaciated alpine terrain, rock climbing and belaying. You will experience what it feels like to be part of an expedition and we will make ascents of some impressive peaks 4500-4800m. The highlight will be an attempt on Korona Peak 4800m. A real adventure!

For this trip we have achieved a fully inclusive cost for two weeks that is roughly equivalent to many one week courses in the European Alps! The course covers the following essential alpine and expedition skills:

  • Use of Ice Axe and Crampons
  • Glacial Travel
  • Crevasse Rescue
  • Travelling on fixed lines
  • Rappelling/Abseiling
  • Building High Altitude Camps
  • Food issues at altitude
  • Cooking and boiling water at High Altitude
  • Medical & Health issues
  • Equipment for High Altitude
  • Mountain Weather
  • AMS – Acute Mountain Sickness
  • Avalanche awareness & snow conditions

Dates & Prices

Show prices in
All prices in Euros are guide rates, not live rates
All prices in US Dollars are guide rates, not live rates

Availability

Dates
Flight Inclusive
AvailabilityDays
With Flight
Price
Land Only
Price
With Flight
Select
1st Jul 2023 - 14th Jul 2023 Spaces14 £2,700£3,400 Book Now
15th Jul 2023 - 28th Jul 2023 Spaces14 £2,700£3,400 Book Now
29th Jun 2024 - 12th Jul 2024 Spaces14 £2,700£3,400 Book Now
13th Jul 2024 - 26th Jul 2024 Spaces14 £2,700£3,400 Book Now

* A deposit of £400 will be required at checkout.

What's Included

  • International Flights from London (flight inclusive price)
  • Instruction/guiding
  • Permits, charges, importation taxes and levies payable to the Local Authorities in connection with the trip
  • Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Medical safety equipment and supplies
  • Hotel & Lodge accommodation (B&B)
  • All tents and other communal equipment necessary for the climb
  • Communication equipment (each member on a Grade 3B or above are normally provided with a radio whilst on the mountain and the team is often supported with a Satellite communication on extended expeditions at Base Camp)
  • 24 hour back up and support from UK staff
  • 15% discount off the RRP on clothing and equipment purchased at Adventure Peaks shop

What's Excluded

  • Travel to and from UK airport
  • Personal climbing clothes and equipment
  • Personal insurance, visas, departure tax and inoculations
  • Transfers to and from the in-country airport if flights NOT booked with Adventure Peaks
  • Drinks and hotel or guest house meals, unless specified
  • Personal medical supplies
  • Personal use of communication equipment
  • Excess baggage
  • Tips for any porters and local guides
  • Costs associated with an expedition finishing early
  • Costs associated with you leaving an expedition early
  • Costs associated with extending a trip due to bad weather or other circumstances

Itinerary

Days 1-2

International flights - Arrive Bishkek Transfer to the hotel. Expedition/Course briefing before we explore the city of Bishkek and purchase supporting food supplies. (H, B)

Day 3

Bishkek – Ala Archa National Park – Racek hut
Transfer to the Ala Archa National Park. The approach path follows a beautiful track up through a forest of fir trees to a mountain plateau. Mid way through the day we arrive at the Ak Sai waterfalls, a lovely place for lunch. We continue to the Racek mountain hut at 3350m. Night in the hut.
Distance and travel time: Bishkek – Ala Archa 45km, 1hr 30min drive; Ala-Archa – Racek hut 5-6km, 4-5 hours walking. (B, R, D)

Day 4

Racek hut – Glacier & Rock Training Day 1 -– Racek hut
Acclimatisation & Training Day - In the morning we practice/recap on ice axe and crampons combined with glacier training for movement in roped teams and crevasse rescue in preparation for moving up the Ak-Sai glacier to our planned peaks. The afternoon is spent on rock climbing & belay training. (R, B, L, D)

Day 5

Racek hut - Uchitel Peak (4560m) – Racek hut
On the opposite side of the valley we make the ascent of Uchitel Peak, one of the highest peaks in the region again a technically easy summit over scree and rock increasing our acclimatisation ready to tackle the glaciated peaks later in the week. On a clear day you will get great views of Chu valley and the many peaks of the Ala Archa. (R, B, L, D)
Distances and travel time: to Uchitel Peak is 5-6 km, +1190m, 6-7h

Day 6

Racek hut – Box Peak (4211m) or Rutsek Peak (3870 m) -– Racek hut
This peak is situated opposite Uchitel peak. The ascent of this peak allows you a great view of the Ak-Sai mountains including Korona peak (4860m) our final climb. We climb the normal route, the easiest one, which follows the South-East side of the peak. (R, B, L, D)

Distances and travel time: to Box Peak 7-8 km, +950m, 6-7hours.

Day 7

Racek hut – Korona hut
Today we move to the higher Korona hut (3800m), a small metal cabin, standing on the side moraine of Ak Sai glacier at the base of Korona Mountain. The route takes us across the glacier, where crampons and harnesses are necessary. (R, B, L, D)
Night in the Korona hut – 3800m.
Distances and travel time: 7-8km, 3-4hours, +450m.
Please note the Korona Hut is extremely basic.

Day 8

Trek & Training on the glacier
Acclimatisation Day for further glacial training and a glacier walk in the shadow of Ak Sai spectacular peaks  – Free Korea peak, Bailan Bashi peak, Korona peak. (R, B, L, D)
Night in the Korona hut – 3800m.

Days 9

Ascent to Korona peak
Korona Peak is one of the most beautiful peaks on Kyrgyz Ala-Too Mountain range with six rock towers forming a crown and the summit. Our aim is to climb Tower 2 at 4800m. The ascent is almost entirely on glaciated terrain, so we climb as a roped team. The final 20 metres to the summit of the Tower is an optional rock-climbing ascent. The summit panorama from this beautiful peak is a spectacular climax to the Expedition training course. Descend the same way. (R, B, L, D)
Night in the Korona hut – 3800m.
Distances and travel time: 6km, 8-10 hours, +850m.

Days 10 - 11

Reserve Weather Days. (R, B, L, D if staying in the mountains)

Day 12

Korona hut to Ala Archa National Park, transfer to Bishkek
After breakfast we descend back to the Racek hut and then walk out to meet our transport for the journey back to Bishkek (R, B, L)
Trek 12 km, 6-7 hours, Descent 3950-2100-800m

Day 13

In Bishkek (H, B)

Day 14

Return International flights.

Insurance

It is essential for a trip of this type that you are adequately insured. When researching insurance options, please ensure the policy covers you for the following:

  • Cancellation or curtailment
  • Helicopter rescue (most insurance companies will no longer cover for ‘search and rescue’ but providing you stay with the group, they will assist with ‘rescue’)
  • Repatriation
  • The altitude that you are expected to attain
  • The location especially when travelling to Antarctica
  • Grade of trek/climb/expedition
  • Medical cover

Adventure Peaks partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading travel protection services.  Medical and security emergencies happen. When they do, we rely on Global Rescue to provide our clients with medical, security, travel risk and crisis response services. Without a membership, an emergency evacuation could cost over $100,000. More than one million members trust Global Rescue to get them home safely when the unexpected happens. We highly recommend our clients enroll with Global Rescue:
https://partner.globalrescue.com/adventurepeaks/



We are aware the following provide insurance:

For UK based clients:

HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com  Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com  Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com  Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK) www.aacuk.org.uk  Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
Rothwell & Towler: www.world-first.co.uk  Tel: 0345 908 0161 (under 6400m)
Campbell Irvine: www.campbellirvine.com  Tel: 0207 938 1737 (Not for treks/climbs with ropes – OK for Aconcagua)
J S Insurance: www.jsinsurance.co.uk  Tel: 0844 848 1500
Snowcard: www.snowcard.co.uk  Tel: 01295 660836
The B.M.C.: www.thebmc.co.uk  Tel: 0161 445 6111 (call and speak to Jim. Please note the BMC cannot cover Mt Damavand)
Dogtag: www.dogtag.co.uk  Tel: 0800 036 4824 (Check excess etc)

For non-UK based clients:

HCC Medical Insurance Services: LLC sales@hccmis.com  Tel: 1-800-605-2282
Travelex Ins. Services: www.travelexinsurance.com  Tel: 1-800 228 9792
True Traveller Ins: www.truetraveller.com  Tel: 0333 999 3140 for treks including over 4500m
Austrian Alpine Club (UK): www.aacuk.org.uk  Tel: +44 (0)1929 556870
AXA Worldwide Travel Ins: www.axainsurance.com  Tel: +44 (0)844 874 0360
Ingle International: www.ingleinternational.com  Tel: (USA) 1.800.360.3234
Insure for Less: www.insure4less.com.au (Australian clients)

You do not have to use any of the above, but if you make your own insurance arrangements documentary evidence of your own policy is required.

Please forward the details of your Insurance as soon as you have it: we need the insurance company’s name, their 24 hour emergency telephone number and your insurance policy number – admin@adventurepeaks.com

 

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