International flight

Arrive in Osh or you may find it easier to overnight in Bishkek and then take a domestic flight Bishkek to Osh. Arrive in the morning with time to explore the sights, bazaars and do our shopping for mountain snacks. (H, B)

Transfer to Achik-Tash base camp (3700m)
We transfer from Osh to base camp via the Sary-Magol/ Alai valley a journey of about 5 hrs (C, B, L, D)

Acclimatisation on Petrovskogo Peak
To aid our acclimatisation we climb on Petrovskogo Peak, a mountain close to base camp, and also use this day to prepare our gear to be transported by mules up to ABC. Camp 1 (C, B, L, D)

BC - Camp 1
From BC we walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (Wild Onion Meadow). As the plateau ends we follow the small steep path that climbs towards the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4100m). We then descend again via the moraine to the right where the start of the climb up the Lenin Glacier begins. A further 5kms walking brings us to ABC (Camp 1) at a height of 4400m. 6-8 hours. (C, B, L, D)

A low activity day at Base Camp to aid acclimatisation and recap on glacial travel and crevasse rescue skills. (C, B, L, D)

Acclimatisation day. We ascend a lovely peak close to ABC that gives outstanding views towards Camp 2 and the route beyond to Peak Lenin. This is an important day of acclimatisation as we want to ensure you are ready to move up to Camp 2 with a degree of strength and efficiency as the route is crevassed and can also be prone to avalanche after heavy snow falls.

Today after striking camp, we descend back down to ABC in time for lunch 2-3hrs.

Final preparation and rest day before moving up the mountain.

Camp 1 (ABC) - Camp 2
Today we make our first ascent to Camp 2 with food (5-6kg)and some personal gear. Porters will move group equipment. Crossing the flat glacier we head up the face to the Skovorodka (Frying Pan!). This area is heavily crevassed so the group will be roped up to cross this terrain. The route progressively gets steeper until a traverse can be made to Camp 2 which is located on a rocky outcrop to the far right of the glacier at 5300m. 6-8 hours.

Acclimatisation
Today we get used to the steepest part of the climb by taking an acclimatisation walk/climb up the steepening and fixed ropes that lead towards Camp 3. We gain the viewpoint of a small subsidiary summit at 5700m before returning to Camp 2.

Ascend to Camp 3
Today we use our many years of experience (five successful expeditions) on Peak Lenin. We ascend again passing yesterdays high point to reach Mt Razdelnaya where we established our camp 3 and drop off food at 6100m before descending back to ABC 6-8 hours.

Rest Days at ABC

Ascend to Camp 2

Ascend to Camp 3

Move to Camp 4
Very few teams establish this camp but it is the biggest factor in summit success as it shortens the summit day by at least two hours (from the normal Camp 3 it is a minimum of 8hrs to the summit and a long haul back). Camp 4 (6400m) is placed on a plateau that is quite exposed to the wind and therefore it is established according to the weather forecast but it does gives us a significant advantage over most groups who follow a traditional series of 3 camps and must climb this, the toughest section, in darkness.

Summit Day
From Camp 4 we cross the plateau to climb a short steep snow slope of about 40 degrees which is normally fixed; this is followed by another rocky section which eventually leads to a pre-summit plateau. The route then drops before a final rise to the true summit at 7134m. Ultimately it is a long summit day 8-10 hours from our Camp 4 or 10 – 15 hours from Camp 3.

Reserve summit Days

Return to Camp 1 (ABC) Clearing the mountain as we go, we head back down to base camp.

Return to BC, Transfer to Osh. (H, B)

Return International flight